Cheat Sheets are back ---->

Blogger has had a few glitches lately, and it completely removed the Cheat Sheet tab over there on the right hand side ---->
Thank you to those of you that were asking me where they had gone - I hadn't even noticed! Rude blog site.

I think there may be others that aren't tagged as this site has such a huge back catalogue of content that I am constantly going back and adjusting/updating/tagging posts. It seems a never-ending process, but a strangely enjoyable one. I don't change older posts, I update them with a new one if necessary, and this is all part of a bigger process to move this to a bigger website.

While that is happening behind the scenes please do feel free to flag up any mistakes/things you feel need updating. This is a live, breathing blog and I am grateful for your input.

Thanks Chaps!

Fannies, Flights and Festivals – Festival Skincare - Cheat Sheet

Some of these people belong to me. You're welcome world.

I suppose there’s not much point in having a saying if you never use it or address it. ☺

Festivals. God knows what possesses you, but thousands of you will insist on sleeping in a tent in the pouring rain, drinking yourselves into oblivion and having at best, questionable hygiene habits for the duration. This, we call ‘entertainment’.  Personally, I prefer a day ticket, AAA pass and a nice hotel with hot showers but that’s me.

So you’re packed and ready for Glastonbury/Reading (see you there)/Leeds/V Festival etc – what’s in your skincare stash?

If you’re the type of person that keeps their wits about them, you can do most of your normal routine. If, however, you know you’re going to party non-stop for 3/4/5 days, I would just take wipes and SPF and deal with the carnage when you get home. At least you’ll have a great time and won’t add sunburn into the mix.

*This is a long post, like the queue for the toilets at an festival. A full list of products is available at the bottom of the post.

Wipes.
If you’re going to use a wipe, now is the time. Bear in mind, like good tea and 80s rock bands, all wipes are not created equal.
Here’s some I don’t hate.

Ole are the ones I reach for first. They work (as best wipes can) and cause me no irritation. The purple also work on waterproof, but I would go in with a micellar water/dedicated EMU remover for that.

Clinique TTDO 'cleansing towelettes' are the latest addition to the TTDO franchise and they also work. Obviously I prefer the balm, but no-one wants to be trying to remove that outside of a lovely bathroom with flowing hot water.

MAC wipes work. Good for makeup removal. 

I would always pick up these Sensibio wipes in Paris before they were available here. Great for emergencies, hands and festivals... 

The Yes To range have a large selection of wipes available. I haven't used them but they proved very popular on twitter when I put the question to everyone.

All of these are good at getting a lot of crap off of your face, but if you’re wearing a face full of makeup and SPF you’ll have to use quite a few to do so.

However: if you can, I’d go with a micellar water/eye makeup remover and cotton wool pads. They just do the job better.

The Body Shop's Camomile Eye Makeup Removers are brilliant. I use this one all over the face like a micellar water.

They've changed the packaging (I prefer the old to be honest) but the juice is the same. This, on large cotton pads, is how I would do an overnight stay at a festival (assuming I was under threat of death and had no water - obvs). There's a waterproof version also.

Bioderma was made for this situation. Like The Body Shop, quick, easy and works.

Clarins One-Step Facial Cleanser is great. It also smells delicious which, let's face it, is an added bonus given the surroundings at festivals. 

I also love a good traditional milk cleanser in this situation. One that can either be washed off in the shower (literally going against my religion here I know) or removed with cotton pads. Clarins again would be my first port of call.

But still, if you’re boozing, stick to wipes.

Acid: here’s the thing. I would probably not bother with acid during the day at a festival. You’re going to be outside all day, sitting in the sun (although if you’re in the sun, you’re probably not in the UK), you may be drunk tipsy and forget to apply your SPF… is it worth it?
For the sake of three days you could give it a miss. If, however, you’re going for longer and want to use acids almost to ‘back-up’ your wipes, use them in the evening and make sure you have your SPF for the next day.
Ready-soaked pads are an obvious choice here.

First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads are great and Dennis Gross MD are pre-packed for you.

Failing that, pre-soak your own cotton pads in your chosen acid toner and put them in a ziplock lunch bag. It's what I use to do on flights before they made pre-soaked pads...

If you have time, can be bothered and know you will use it, I would take some Serozinc with you. It may help keep your skin hydrated, can be used to help remove wipe residue and is antibacterial. It also comes in a travel size. Well handy.

Serum. There’s really only one choice for festival serum and that’s hyaluronic acid. You need it. Whether you’re boozing or not, the weather, sun or wind or rain, will all take its toll on your hydration levels, so the easiest way to keep it topped up is with a dose of hyaluronic acid. This is not the time for your expensive anti-ageing serums. Save your money. My first choice would be Hydraluron, purely for the ease of use and plastic tube. There are brilliant hyaluronic acid products out there, but a lot of them are in fiddly packaging or glass, not what you want in a tent, or god forbid, a shared cubicle shower monstrosity. *shudders*

Moisturisers. For ease, use one with SPF included (this post will bring me out in hives at this rate). For safety, I’d personally use a good hydrating moisturiser and a bloody high SPF on top.
If you can take your normal moisturiser and it’s not in any heavy/glass packaging, do. If you need something new just for the festival period look at Nuxe, Caudalie, REN and Pixi. All make great moisturisers in tubes, which is what you want.

At a push I'd trump for Pixi's H2O Skin Drink. The product and the packaging is the perfect festival pick.

SPF – Anthelios is hard to beat on value and performance. Get SPF 50, don’t faff about with a 15. Pointless in this scenario. I'd go Ultra Light Fluid untinted. Easier to remove than a thicker cream, great coverage.

Where to do it all in a routine?:
Assuming you’re doing the festival in a fairly controlled manner and get up and go to the showers at a decent hour in the morning:
Cleanse with your micellar water or milk cleanser and flannel if you can (please).  Make sure your skin is as clean as you can get it; apply your hyaluronic acid and your moisturiser, then your SPF.
I know for a lot of you this will be your only cleanse of the day that goes anywhere near water. If in the evenings, you get back to your tent half-cut, and manage to wipe your face down a few times and apply a moisturiser on top, well done. If you can, use your wipes/micellar water, then acid, then serum, then moisturiser. Just do your best. You can fix the damage when you get home.

Have fun ya filthy animals.


Products mentioned:

Ole Henriksen Wipes

Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Towelettes

MAC Wipes

Bioderma Wipes

Yes To Wipes

The Body Shop Camomile Eye Makeup Remover 

Bioderma Sensibio

Serozinc

Clarins One-Step Facial Cleanser

First Aid Beauty Radiance Pads

Dennis Gross Pads (varying strengths)

Clarins Cleansing Milks

Hydraluron

Pixi H2O SkinDrink

La Roche Posay Anthelios






*Not a sponsored post in any way. Some links are affiliate links, which help to support this blog. If you are happy to use my links, thank you kindly. If not, simply google the brands in a new page. It's all good.

Cheat Sheet - Top 5 Things American Girls are doing wrong in Skincare

First things first:

• Yes, this is a sweeping generalisation, based on my time in LA last week. Please don't be offended if you reside in the USA and it bears no resemblance whatsoever to your routine. That's excellent.
• No, of course I don't think everyone in the USA treats their skin like this, but a lot of you do. Especially a lot of the 'Under 25' Ladies in the LA region last week.
• And finally, if you are not new here, there is nothing new for you today. You've heard all of this before. Move along, make yourself tea, come back tomorrow. ;)

So I just returned from L.A., the land of the lovely people, where I was at the Gen Beauty event with Pixi.
I did two Meet'n'Greets across the weekend while I was there, along with a Q&A, where a lot of the same issues/questions came up. After I heard the word 'scrub' for the 50th time, I made a mental note to do this post.

1. Scrubs. Oh Lord the scrubs. You like a scrub. You LOVE a scrub. And the rougher the better. Too harsh. Way too harsh. Also: a number of you enjoy removing your makeup with scrubs. Yes really. Please stop. The 'scratch' is not good. And I quote:

'I really love it when I can feel my face burn afterwards.'

2. You keep all your products in your bathrooms. It's too hot in there. Especially in California. Please keep everything outside of your cleansing products in your bedroom if you can.

3. Foaming. I'm not saying you like a bit of foam, but the same products kept getting mentioned, to the point where I was literally itching my face.

L.A. - AFTER CLEANSING TIME.

4. Showers. You love doing all these scrubs and foaming things in your showers. I love a good shower. Who doesn't? I just don't cleanse my face in it. Do it afterwards, at the sink, with a washcloth/flannel, the way Jesus intended.

5. You like a 'minimal routine'. I had a queue (both days) of 100 women at a time asking me to help them with their skin, then pulling a face at the mere suggestion that using more than a scrub and a moisturiser might possibly help. You don't have to get on board with a seven step routine, but good skin takes more than a scrub, an oil-free moisturiser and a prayer.

Now please read this and meet me afterwards for a cup of tea to discuss: 

Routines Cheat Sheet

Cheat Sheet - How to POP a spot

As much as any dermatologist will tell you not to pop, the fact is that you do. We do. You know you do, I know you do, the industry at large knows that you do, but they pretend that you don't. I know there are some of you that do manage to restrain yourselves, but you're in the minority and up there with those people that don't lick their lips when eating a donut or chew when eating a fruit pastille.
You exist, but the rest of us don't know how you manage it.

I'm a popper. Always have been, nothing more satisfying to be honest. And although some of you do seem to show great restraint, I know most of you pop because you tell me so - usually with a faint look of 'Don't shout at me' eyes.
As if! If it's the right time, I always pop. With that in mind, I offer you my way to pop. All risk is your own.

But before we go any further, for the sake of being professional, balanced and fair, here is my lovely friend Dr Sam Bunting telling you why you should not pop:

'Of course the correct answer is never pick a spot in the first place-treat them with an anti-inflammatory acne preparation containing salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide (no need to go higher than 2.5-5%); allow it to dry and then cover with concealer. Then – and this is key – divert attention away from the trouble zone. So if the spot is on the chin, work a mesmerising smoky eye. If it's on the forehead, rock a red lip. Remember to assess your face from what I call conversation distance – a good 1m away from the mirror (absolutely NO magnifying mirrors); remember no one every inspects you as closely as you’d like to think.
If you have been tempted to pick and its red and raw, it’s important to interfere as little as possible, to reduce the risk of pigmentation and scarring. This is especially true if the spot had not come to a white head and formed a pustule. Until the erosion has healed over, it will be almost impossible to get make-up to adhere and it may well cause secondary infection.  Wipe with a gentle antiseptic like witch hazel and apply light pressure for a minute. Then apply an anti-inflammatory acne preparation that will form a film over the area and leave it be. Don’t apply make-up until the skin has healed properly.'

That's the Dr. I love her. But I still pop.

Please bear in mind: Popping is not picking. They are two very different things.

How so?

Popping - 'Ooh I see a whitehead! Where did that come from? I think I can get that out. Let me have a go. Yep. Excellent.' *carries on with routine*

Picking - 'Ow. That red lump on my chin is KILLING ME. I must be due on. Bloody hormones. I'm going to get it out. *attempts to pop red lump for ages*
'OWWW. Ugh. I'll try again later. Ooh there's another one! Maybe that one will come out. *prods second bump until it bleeds*
'OOWWWW. Ugh. No joy. Why does my skin hate me?'
*plays with it all day with dirty fingers, doesn't leave it alone*

If you fall into the latter category you're making the simple mistake of opening the oven door before the cake has risen. A little patience changes the outcome.

A few simple guidelines will give the best result (although do bear in mind that every skin is different) and they will probably go against everything you've read from brands trying to sell you products. Nothing new there so let's crack on.

What you will need:
'Clean' everything. Clean hands. Clean skin. Clean flannel. Clean tissue. Acids. Cotton wool or on a ready made pad. A good quality (non-mineral oil) facial oil.

• Slipping it into your routine is the easiest way. AM or PM. Not lunchtime in the loo at work.
• Cleanse. With a flannel. If the flannel doesn't knock the head off the spot that's your first sign that it may not be ready. If it's sore, it's probably not ready. I steer clear of sore spots. They're still working their way up the dermis food chain and causing inflammation along the way.
• If you can see white, it's not sore or too tender and everything is clean, take a tissue, rip it in half and wrap it around the forefinger of each hand.
• Finger placement is also crucial. 
• One of the biggest mistakes made when popping is to go straight in from RIGHTNEXTTOTHESPOT. You put your two fingers on the spot and you just push your fingers together, so that you're so close, you literally just get a little teeny whitehead, then everything almost gets pushed back down into the spot. Not good.
• Do NOT use your nails. Pads of fingertips only.
• Put your fingers either side of the spot, to the best you can, depending on where it is, obviously. You should be able to SEE the spot. Gently push downwards and then at a 90 degree angle towards the bottom the spot, start to push upwards. If it's ready, it will come up and out. Gently repeat. When the white stops, and it's spouting pink, STOP. STOP. STOP. STOP.
• If you see blood (it's already too late but..), STOP. 

You're in scarring territory. Show restraint.

• Now you need to move quickly. Take your pre-soaked acid toner cotton pad, or ready and waiting acid pad and apply it firmly to the spot, using a similar pressure as when you've ripped off a plaster or a wax strip. Hard pressure. Hold it down for a few seconds. Turn it over and repeat. There should be no bleeding. If there is, keep the acid on it until it stops. I have been known to walk around making a cup of tea holding a pad soaked with acid on to an overly pronged spot waiting for it to calm itself. The bigger the spot, the longer you hold acid on it.
• Note: this may sting like a MOFO. Stinging is good. I know I say it all the time but stinging is good. The acid will be helping to kill the bacteria, aiding a quicker healing time and making sure the skin is prepped ready for the oil. You'll have a 'Kevin at the sink in Home Alone' moment. Embrace it.
• Yes, oil. I don't use drying out products. You dry out the spot, you also dry out the area surrounding the spot causing a ton of inflammation and dehydration and frankly, making a prime breeding ground for bacteria and scarring. A Juicy Lucy skin is harder to scar. A dried-out, shrivelled up area will scar easily. Simples.
• Take your acid pad off, and put your chosen oil on the area.
• Massage it firmly in. You can't be mamby-pamby at this stage. Be firm. Good strong pressure massaging all around the spot and over the spot.
• Depending on the rest of your day/evening, finish your routine, but I try and do this either on mornings that I'm not wearing makeup and am working from home, or in the evenings at teatime.
• It's best to do it when you're at home with a little time afterwards as you're going to repeat the oil application as soon as it has all absorbed...
  Apply, wait, absorb, apply, wait, absorb. Repeat at least three times if you can. 
• Throughout the day or the next morning you will find that the spot erupts a little goo, like a mini-volcano. Wipe away with acid and reapply the oil. This sounds time-consuming but I promise we're talking seconds, not hours. And it's worth it if it speeds up the spot healing process and helps prevent scarring.
• IF you have a ready spot but you have to go to work, do everything as above, apply your moisturiser over the area, don't avoid it - and then proceed with your makeup. Powder is your friend. Once you get home, cleanse immediately and do it all again. You may find the rest of the spot just throws itself at you willingly, or that it has calmed significantly to be almost invisible. Just DON'T be tempted to start on it like you're climbing Everest with a pickaxe. 

The reason I do oil and not drying products is because in my experience, drying out doesn't always work and causes more damage. Using oil does one of two things: it either swells up the spot and forces the 'head' of the spot to show up the next morning, or it settles it down and almost disperses the remnants. 

Sidebar: you can of course, use extraction tools, but you can't use them where you can't see the spot - and you need to know how much pressure is too much. If popping is your thing and you haven't already discovered her, watch Dr Sandra Lee aka Dr Pimple Popper. Be warned: you may gag.

More info on products/people mentioned here:

Acids

Extraction tools

Dr Sam Bunting

Dr Pimple Popper

SPF - CHEAT SHEET

When purchasing SPF the main questions to ask are:

What is the SPF?

Is it a Broad Spectrum product?

There are two main concerns from being in the sun: Skin-ageing and skin cancer.

UV Light causes sun burn and sun damage by damaging cellular DNA.

UVA (long-wave) causes the ageing and UVB (short-wave) causes the burning. 

Both the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services and the World Health Organization have identified UV as a proven human carcinogen. Therefore, there is no such thing as a ‘safe tan’. A tan is a sign of DNA damage. It is the result of a chemical reaction in your body as it tries (and fails) to protect itself from UV light. Brands selling SPF that use the term ‘safe tanning’ are at best misleading and at worst, clueless.

The majority of sun damage is done in the first 20 years of your life. Age spots/pigmentation appearing when you’re older are the fault of those Spanish teen holidays – not just the tan you got in Newquay last year. ;)

‘Natural’ vs ‘Chemical’
Physical (most commonly referred to as ‘natural’ in marketing materials) reflects the UV light. Traditionally 'chemical' SPFs absorb the light.
Physical sunscreen, contrary to popular belief and the GOOP website (please do not get me started), is not ‘natural’. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, most commonly used in ‘natural’ sunscreens have been shown to be toxic (and I use the word correctly) for fish/sealife - an estimated 4,000 to 6,000 metric tons of sunscreen washes off swimmers’ bodies annually with the potential to cause damage to fragile ecosystems.
Zinc and titanium oxide are not biodegradable and invariably use nano-technology, which is also under question by Cancer research bodies because of its possible links to cancers in humans.
If your preference is to use ‘natural’ your closest bet is a ‘non-nano’ oxide. Bear in mind it's still technically a chemical, no matter what the EWG say. The term non-nano means nothing to the FDA, but it may be better for you. Still tough cookies for the fish though.

Government Guidelines
FDA standards are different from Europe and Australasia. In the USA, SPF labelling is a requirement because the FDA says it is a drug. In Europe, it is classed as a cosmetic and therefore stating SPF classification is not mandatory, it’s just for information.

Having said that, European manufacturers are allowed to use seven proven UVA filters whilst the FDA in the USA only allows three, meaning that technically a European product has the potential to be more effective than an American-made product.

SPF is only relevant to UVB light. PPD - Persistent Pigment Darkening is one way of measuring UVA light but is now considered out-dated. The PA++ system, developed in the Far East is another method used – however neither of these are allowed when making broad spectrum claims in the USA. It’s enough to make you tear your hair out.

An in vitro test to gauge a Critical Wavelength is really what a brand should be able to show to claim Broad Spectrum on their packaging in the US and the UK. Critical Wavelength tests measure the absorbance of UV light on skin and a critical wavelength of 370nm is what you are looking for on literature. Not that many brands will bother labelling that information but do your research or ask them directly.

Myths:

• SPF does not accumulate. If you wear a moisturiser, primer and sunscreen you will only have the highest SPF that you are using, you cannot ‘add them up’.
• Pre-cancerous moles are a myth. They are either cancerous or they are not. If in doubt, cut it out. A mole is a benign lesion. Any changes, any – it needs to be checked by an expert and removed.
• Acne sufferers: whilst the sun may have a drying effect on your acne; but a lot of SPF products are comedogenic. Use oil-free sunscreens if possible. Avoid mineral oil in sunscreens (and your normal skincare).
• Darker skin, whilst not as vulnerable to UV light as lighter skin, still needs to protect itself from UV damage and use SPF. Although darker skins can stay longer in the sun without burning and they do not need the same high factors as a Type 1 person, they should still use SPF.
• No sunscreen is waterproof. They can only be listed as ‘water resistant’.
• SPF should be repurchased fresh every year. It degrades.
• Do not waste your money on a really expensive anti-ageing moisturiser with SPF. SPF is an all-encompassing product that will overtake any active/expensive ingredients in your skincare. Use your expensive skincare and apply a separate SPF on top.
• 'SPF 60 is twice as effective as SPF30'. Not true. There is only a 1% difference between SPF30 and SPF50. SPF30 is my most recommended level for that reason. You're covered, but you have no false sense of security. 

‘Cruelty-free’.
Never were more ingredients tested on animals in the beauty industry than SPF products. This does not mean the final product is tested on animals, meaning that brands that state they are against animal testing are not technically lying, it means the raw ingredients were, at some point, absolutely tested on animals in a lab to ensure ‘efficacy’, especially in the USA, where they are classed as drugs. Whilst this is true of the entire beauty and health industry, I mention it not to make you feel bad, purely to counterbalance the nonsense of ‘vegan, animal-friendly, non-toxic SPF 50’ claims that are frankly, nonsense. 

PETA can say there are a wealth of cruelty-free brands * but the reality is that the ingredients were tested on animals at some point. They may be cruelty-free now, but the ingredients have probably been tested on animals historically. Again, not being negative, just giving the full story. 

Even Lush, the champions against animal testing and ‘natural’ claims, use octocrylene and octyl methoxycinnamate, both chemical UVB sunscreens. Again, I am in no way singling out Lush, merely offering balance to the over-use of the word ‘toxic’ in scare-mongering media and frankly, some lies written by marketing departments and celebrity websites.

Application: 

• SPF is ALWAYS the last product to be applied to your skin.
• Apply your SPF 15-20 minutes before you go in the sun.
• Apply 2mg per Square CM which equates approximately to one teaspoon for your face and neck, two per chest, two per back, two per arm, two/three per leg depending on your height obviously. If you are particularly tall, or have a large frame, obviously use more. I use a tablespoon for face, neck and décolleté (fat head) - and I’m 5’11, so I use two tablespoons per body part.
• Reapply every 90 minutes to 2 hours or more often if in water.

Children:

If you have children the best advice is to cover them up and keep them out of direct sunlight as much as possible. 

• Reapply their SPF every 90 minutes, more frequently if they are getting wet. 
• If you have boys with short hair, remember the back of their necks and their ears. Every single person I have seen under a Wood’s Lamp has significant sun damage at the tops of their ears (women typically apply their SPF before they hit the beach and put their hair in a ponytail the minute they sit on the sand - EARS!) and above the eyebrows – and it’s always worse in my Australian clients. (Sorry Aussie friends – it’s true).

When asked what he would use on his child, Dr Marko Lens replied: ‘I would probably put a chemical sunscreen on my child. I would not feel comfortable using nano-technology on my child.’

And finally, my most-asked questions from my readers:

• Personally, I would not dream of using a ‘once a day’ sunscreen on holiday, especially on my children. It gives a false sense of security. I checked Ultrasun’s website and according to them if I use their SPF50 with my skin type, I can ‘safely’ stay in the sun for 10 hours. TEN. HOURS? No. In fairness to them – and again I am not attacking them, merely using their own website to source information, they also state categorically that if you are going into the water or perspire heavily that you need to reapply, which makes it a normal SPF in my book (and makes them ethical!) Where once a day formulas might come in handy are…
• Young children going to school. If, as mine do, your young children attend a school where the teachers are not allowed to touch the children, even with your permission, a once a day formula may be a good option. Your children may sweat a little, but they aren’t in the sea so should be protected still by 3.30pm. In theory. It still makes me uneasy, but it’s better than applying a typical 'kids' SPF15 at 8.30and that’s it for the day…. It’s your judgement call as a parent/carer.
• If you are wearing SPF under your makeup and going to work you will probably not be covered by lunchtime. You either need to reapply (not likely I know), use a once-a-day product, which are far better suited to city living than beach in my opinion, or buy yourself a big hat and be done with it. You could also use…
• Sprays. Here’s the thing with sprays: you have to make sure you have covered the entire area thoroughly and that is unlikely unless you are applying it to your child, in which case most of us show more due diligence than when we are applying to our own bodies. Use a spray over your makeup if you know you have applied it evenly and feel protected, otherwise, go down the once a day route or make like Jackie O and enjoy a hat and sunglasses. There is also cause for concern when inhaling sprays - something you will invariably do if the point is to apply it over your makeup. Your judgement call.
• I am frequently asked about Institut Esthederm. They are a tanning brand, not an SPF brand. Make of that what you will. 
• It is safe to use acid toners in the summer – just make sure you are using your SPF.
• If you wear SPF please double cleanse!

*PETA: http://www.peta.org/living/beauty/cruelty-free-summer-skin-care/

*FDA SPF Guidelines: http://www.fda.gov/Drugs/ResourcesForYou/Consumers/BuyingUsingMedicineSafely/UnderstandingOver-the-CounterMedicines/ucm258468.htm#Q6_What_are_the_main_points

FDA on Animal Testing/Cruelty-free: http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/Labeling/Claims/ucm2005202.htm

Cheat Sheet - How to use a retinol/vitamin A product

My most frequently-asked-questions recently have all been about retinol. I'm still planning my retinol cheat sheet but in the meantime, I thought I would answer the most popular question, both on social media and in the comments section on here, so that I only have to so it once. 

How do I use retinols?

Brands will all give you instructions on the packaging, and whilst there will always be exceptions, the key things to remember are:

• Retinols go onto the skin after cleansing and toning
• You can use other products, but they go on afterwards
• If you have sensitive skin it is worth applying onto dry skin as it slows the absorption rate and, therefore, reduces the risk of inflammation 
• Don't apply a lot thinking it will work faster. It won't. Save your money. And your skin. Apply a small pea-sized amount, or in the case of an oil, a few drops, not an entire pipette. 
• Don't overdo it. The results can be very alarming - in a good way - almost overnight. Don't be tempted to think more is more. It isn't. In the case of retinols, and especially if you have not used them before, less is more. Every 3rd night, moving to every 2nd night. Unless a brand specifically says differently.

I have been using retinols a long time. If I know I'm using a vitamin A product in the evening, I cleanse, acid tone, spritz, then use my retinoid. I usually follow it with a soothing moisturiser. I love them. They are easily the best products for fighting signs of ageing. Everyone should use one. They are worth the faff. Just use them correctly.

Cheat Sheet - When to use natural, when to reach for the chemicals

Before you read on - when I use the below terms I take them to mean:

Chemical-led: products that contain non-'natural' ingredients - anything.

Natural-led: products that would make the 'natural' consumer happy - may contain some non-natural ingredients, but the main bulk is natural.

Organic-led: would be endorsed by the green brigade and Gywneth. 

And remember - nearly everything is technically a chemical, including water. It's how a product is marketed that makes the distinction.

One of my most-asked questions re ingredients is 'Is it natural?' and my answer is always 'Yes, if that's what you want.'

If you look closely at Instagram pictures of my routines that I've been sharing for a few months, you'll notice a pattern. I invariably tail end with natural-led products - and sandwich a lovely chemical serum in the middle.

See above for example, a Tata Harper sandwich with a Vichy and Kate Somerville filling.

This is by no means set in stone.

Exhibit B above: Clinique to massacre my makeup. That's what they should have called this product by the way, 'Massacre'. Or 'Destroyer'. I digress. Clinique removes makeup, followed by a natural-led Oskia and finished with organic-led May Lindstrom Blue Cocoon. But before May Lindstrom, comes Sunday Riley Luna. That's not made of apples y'all. In the best way.

Exhibit C above: The Organic Pharmacy Carrot Butter Cleanser - proper organic here - no faffing about - Sjal to finish, which is natural-led but by no means 'green' and chemical-led Kate Somerville Mega C serum in the middle.

Why do I do it this way?

Predominantly because:

The best eye makeup removers invariably contain chemicals - case in point: Bioderma, Nars, Clarins and Charlotte Tilbury. That's removing surface junk so it's no problem for me personally...if you want to go natural you can go down the almond oil route, but I find that a tad heavy for my baggy eyelids and the residue can make them puffy.

Second Cleansers/skin cleanser are at some point going to used for facial massage, so I steer towards good oils/milk ingredients for that. Not always, but in general/most of the time. 

Acid toners/Essences are by their very definition, chemical-led. Lovely.

Eye creams can be either, although I would probably go natural-led if your only concern was dryness/dehydration and chemical for everything else. 

Serums for me are nearly always chemical-led. Here's why: if you are out of your 20's and have lived any kind of life (I mean 'any', I'm not being facetious) you will have signs of ageing on your skin. And I'm sorry, but at a certain point, if you want to reverse those signs of ageing, you need to embrace the chemical. You, for 'green' reasons, may decide against that. That's 100% your prerogative obviously. But, for example, I have yet to meet a 'green, organic' product that can actually reverse sun damage, pigmentation and scarring as well as chemical-led retinoids. As much as people harp on about rosehip oil for scarring, it has nothing, nothing on retinoids available on prescription. It may be marketed as 'a natural alternative to retinol', but in reality that means that the proof has to be in the pudding, and they are just very, very different ingredients. See also: peptides. 

Your serum is the product that will penetrate the most - it's the most 'active' product that you use. It's where you should embrace the chemical and be a bit more spendy.

Again, as in the above picture, there are days where I reach for something organic in the serum department - usually when I want to get my glow on, really hydrate or if I am using a particularly silicone-heavy moisturiser. Which leads me to:

Moisturisers are probably the category where I mix it up the most. I love organic/natural-led hydrating, soothing moisturisers. I like how the majority (not all) of them are under makeup and I tend to use them on days where I am applying self-tan afterwards. The lack of silicone makes for better tanning. :)

If however, I feel my face needs some oomph and a little kick, I would probably use something hi-tech. For example: a Kate Somerville/Zelens serum under a Tata Harper moisturiser works a treat. Likewise, a Tata Harper serum under a Zelens/Kate Somerville moisturiser is also a good plan. Those three brands are probably the only ones where I would use both their serum and moisturiser together without an issue, but not very often. I like to mix it up a little.

The reason I invariably mix up the final two stages is silicone. A silicone serum, followed by a silicone moisturiser, followed by either SPF and/or a silicone primer makes for the higher possibility of 'rolling'. And I hate it when my products 'roll', it makes me feel dirty and like I have to do my entire routine again. Weird maybe, but that's just me. You have to do you.

Cheat sheet - Consumer and Clinical trials, In Vivo vs In Vitro and ORAC testing

I am often met with claims of 'clinical trials' and 'independent studies' when reviewing skincare. It's to be expected, brands want to give the consumer 'evidence' that their product does what it says on the box.
The problem arises when they make those claims based on inadequate or irrelevant testing and put it in language that isn't easy for the customer to break down.

In its simplest form:

Consumer trials - you always see these in the small print on ads. They say something like 'In a study of 80 women, 67% found that X product increased hydration in the skin.'
The major problem with these 'trials' is that you frequently have no idea what demographic and skin type makes up that 80 women. If you put a really hydrating moisturiser on a 70-year-old woman that has only ever used soap and water on her face, she may think it's amazing.
If you put that same moisturiser on me, I may think it's doing absolutely nothing. Consumer trials, in a lot of cases, are really just marketing dressed up as facts. It may be a fact that 35 out of women 'found that the product enhanced the firmness of their skin', but what was their skin like before? What is your base level in the group of women? How old are they? Were they wrinkled to begin with? Did they have acne? Did they have sensitive skin? We will never know. These trials are based on the participants feeding back their thoughts on paper, not studied in detail under a microscope in a clinic. That's a consumer trial.

Clinical trials - these are, rather obviously, done in a clinical environment, on people, not petri dishes. (They will generally be classed as in vivo - see below.)
They include monitoring the participants before, during and after and gauging results by scheduling tests, procedures, applications and dosages; and the length of the study. While in a clinical trial, participants following a protocol are seen regularly by research staff to monitor their results and to determine the effectiveness of the products.

In vitro (latin for 'in glass') testing is the most widely used, the problem is that testing skincare in a petri dish does not replicate testing it on a live human being. Therefore, I tend to disregard any claims made around in vitro. It's basically saying 'this might happen if you use it on your actual skin! or you know, not'.
It's the equivalent of Jamie Oliver cooking an entire meal for you without tasting the food once during the cooking process. It should taste nice, but you don't know until you actually eat it.

In vivo (latin for 'within the living') is the most reliable form of testing as the products are tested on people, not samples in dishes. (In the old days of beauty testing it used to mean animal testing too - it doesn't now, don't worry) This testing, however, is extremely expensive to perform and understandably not easily available to smaller brands who would struggle to find £35-£50,000 to test one product. Most studies around in vivo are limited to under 50 people and for around 4-12 weeks - usually for cost reasons. For the simple fact that it is testing done on living, breathing human skin, it's still the most reliable though.

ORAC testing - ORAC testing is based on antioxidants and free radicals and originated in food testing. All that talk about blueberries and coffee berry being amazing antioxidants? That would be ORAC testing. There are three major problems with ORAC testing in skincare.
1: it was designed for food.
2: it uses in vitro - see above.
3: it has been completely disregarded by both the FDA and the EU as a reliable source of rating antioxidant capability in both food and skincare on human skin.
So, for example, to claim your product is 300 times more effective than other brands is at best, unethical and at worst, borderline illegal. If you made that claim as a blueberry farmer the EU and the FDA would take you to court. It's a minefield and if I was one of the other brands being targeted by the 300 times stronger crew? Frankly I'd be calling my lawyers.

So where does that leave you and I, the consumers who part with hard-earned cash?
While I always take the results of a full clinical trial seriously, honestly, the only voice I listen to these days is word-of-mouth. If a friend has used something and really rates it, I want to check it out. If another blogger that I respect raves about something - I always want to check it out.
Do you read the small print? Do consumer/clinical trials make any difference to whether you try something or not?

The Top 10: Acid Toners

I imagine most of you lovely readers will fully expect what products are in my Top choices so before I carry on - I couldn't stop at 5, hence there are 10. And I've linked the below to previous reviews from either here on the blog or YouTube. Do please give me a shout if there are any blatant omissions - these are in no particular order.

1. P50 - preferably 1970 formula - the original and still one of the best, in all its variants. Reviewed in more detail earlier this week on here. Good for all skins, especially older.
2. Dennis Gross MD Alpha Beta Pads - these, it has to be said, are my absolute first choice for travel. Due to the disposable packaging they can be purchased in and the quick two-step process, they are perfect for using on the go - and brilliant too. Another one that is technically good for all skin types but will show best results on older skins.
3. Pixi Glow Tonic - the best affordable option, along with First Aid Beauty and one for all skins. A great starter option for younger skins and AM tone for older skins.
4. First Aid Beauty Radiance Pads - I use these most in the mornings, usually if I'm doing the school run because they are so easy to use. Also one of the more affordable options at around £20.00.
5. Peter Thomas Roth Unwrinkle Pads - Again for older skins, these are great for using in the evenings before a particularly active serum.
6. Zelens PHA Pads - Glycolic-free for those with problems using that particular acid, don't be fooled by the lack of glycolic. These pack a punch with PHA acids and make it easier for the skin to stay hydrated after use.
7. Kate Somerville Clinic To Go - a peel in a pad. Lush, travel well, work brilliantly, would be in my top 2 for travel except they are harder to get hold of in the UK so I have to use them really sparingly. 
8. Clearasil Daily Clear Superfruits Refreshing Pads - the real budget choice. A few pounds and a fine job for your money. If you are a teen and have a real budget, start with these.
9. Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion - salicylic acid only here, so again, if you suffer with a few spots, or simply cannot use other acids, this is perfect - it's also alcohol-free for those of you with issues with that.
10. Clarins Gentle Exfoliating Brightening Toner - Still lush and in my arsenal, this is better used a few times a week than twice a day.

That, by the way, is still my advice. Try and buy 2, preferably 3 acid products. A strong one for evenings, a lighter one for days and one more to mix it up. Acid toners are literally like taking your face to the gym. Different strengths and different acids do different things.

Lactic (AHA) - resurfacing, great for dehydrated and dry skin.

Glycolic (AHA) - stimulating for better collagen production, resurfacing.

Malic (AHA) - resurfacing, good for boosting collagen production

Salicylic (BHA) - best for spots/acne. Surprisingly gentle.

PHA's (Poly hydroxy acids) - best for those in need of hydration and deep penetration of product afterwards.



Before I am asked: Liquid Gold by Alpha-H is not a toner - it will be in nighttime treatment lists!

Cheat Sheet - How much product should you use?

So yesterday I was quietly minding my own business on Twitter when Stylist tweeted out the picture below, linked to a post, saying 'Thank God, now we know how much to use!'.
I excitedly opened it only to find myself saying out loud 'Erm, no. No. No. Yeah maybe. WHAT? NO.' Etc etc You get my point. The cause of my distress?

Now in absolute fairness to Stylist, which I love, read weekly like a Bible and have absolutely no issue with, this was originally written by makeup.com almost 18 months ago. 

When you look at the actual article they go further with their recommendations, explaining that the cleanser 'hazelnut' size is because 'foam can cover a lot of ground but for cream cleansers you can up your serving size slightly'. It's ok. I was sitting down when I read it. 

There are other crimes, misdemeanours and blatant felonies in the original article, so I figured it was the perfect time write my own Cheat Sheet on 'How much product should you use?'

Cleanser - because we won't be talking about foam, I would break it down by the formula and what are you using the cleanser for - either makeup removing or skin cleansing.

First cleanse/makeup removal - balm: either a big fat grape or two grapes if they're smallish.

First cleanse/makeup removal - milk: a heaped teaspoon or two pumps if applicable

Second cleanse/A.M. cleanse - a level teaspoon or one pump if applicable

Acid toning - dampen a flat cotton pad (never cotton wool balls) until 2/3rd's of the pad are wet. Use both sides. Always. For pre-soaked pads, one pad used on both sides.

Eye cream - I think a 'pine nut per eye' is probably what I use. If your eyes are dry or showing signs of ageing, then you may want slightly more. But for younger skins, one pine nut on the edge of your ring finger, blended with the opposing finger, and applied to the eyes, is sufficient. You need enough to cover the entire orbital area, over and below your eye.

Serums - this is one of the ones that caused me to shout at the page. A pea. A PEA? A pea won't go further than your fingertips. Serums are easy to gauge because the majority of them are in bottle with dispensing pumps, and designed to be dispensed one pump per application. Ergo, if you have a large face, *waves* use two pumps and for a smaller face, use one pump. For comparison purposes, about a 20p size is what you're going for. For US readers that's like a fat nickel.

Moisturiser - depending on your skin and face size, two blueberries, or 3 if you're a dry, pumpkin head. Think 20p/fat nickel again.

Night cream - a blueberry? No. Two, at least. The original article says it will 'end up all over your pillow if you don't leave it for 5 minutes before turning in'. Well, dear reader, this we know to be nonsense because we all cleanse as soon as we get home in the early evening and sleep on silk pillowcases don't we? :)

SPF - this category was my reason for writing this post. Mainly because the advice of a grape is not only wrong, it's dangerous. Whilst you could ostensibly say that a grape would suffice for the face and neck, the recommendation of a heaped teaspoon for the face and neck is what is recommended by skin cancer specialists. For your body, it's a tablespoon per limb. A tablespoon. One for each leg and arm, one for your trunk, one for your back and if you're wearing skimpy swimwear/nude you need to add one lotion allowance for your bottom, hips thighs etc. If you follow the 'grape' advice I promise you are setting yourself up for a big fat burn.

While I don't generally worry about hair products - each to their own etc.. I do also disagree with the recommendations for both shampoo and the 'how to use' conditioner. 

Shampoo cleanses not only your hair, but your scalp. Conditioner not only acts as a moisturiser for your hair, it redresses the balance of your scalp. To only use shampoo on your roots/scalp and conditioner on your ends leaves the hair unbalanced, like doing laundry and using washing powder without fabric softener - think static. Just wrong. And no, I'm not a hairdresser. I know. I have worked with some of the best in the industry during my time at Aveda and through the years. That being said, they argue amongst themselves about this as well, so you do what you like. As long as you, you know, wash. 

Cheat Sheet - Why I don't like 'battery operated cleansing brushes'

Well if ever there was a gentle way of saying the word that you're all saying in your head now, that was my attempt. Assuming we all know the type of thing I'm talking about, I'll carry on.

I have recently been asked a lot more frequently about said cleansing brushes, usually by newcomers to this site who may have missed previous posts and/or comments.

Why don't I like them?

• Because your skin is delicate, it does not need a sandblaster to cleanse it, you have two hands, use them.
  (As I've said previously, if you are not fully able-bodied, obviously do whatever you have to do - ignore this.)
• Because they are capable of basically destroying your acid mantle.
  That skin 'purging'? It's not purging, it's inflamed. It's shouting at you, begging you to stop whatever it is you're doing to it. Stop it. If you were using a moisturiser that broke your face out into acne you'd be horrified, utterly horrified. And you would, in all likelihood, stop using it immediately. And return it. Especially if that cream cost you upwards of £150. But don't worry! In the case of 'purging', they have a brilliant idea! Buy another head! You must just need something a bit more delicate. Note how they've made it your fault. Your problem. And the solution? Spend more money. It's genius if you think about it. 
• Acne. The fact that these are aimed at people with acne is enough to make me scream blue murder. 'Hey you know what's great for acne? Using a power brush to really make sure the skin is as sore as possible! Brilliant! Let's do that.'
  No. Please do not.
• Lack of training when the item is sold. You can buy the most famous version of this online. Just get it delivered to you with no human contact from a trained pro advising you how to use it. Which leads to..
• People using them incorrectly. This is without doubt the 'tool' that is used incorrectly by the majority of people that discuss it with me. 
• The dirty head. How many of you wash the brush head properly? Don't tell me 'it dries out and therefore the bacteria dies'. Imagine using the same flannel for 2 weeks and never washing it. You can by all means let it 'dry out' between uses if that image makes you feel better, but imagine it. Filth.
• The cleansers that the original version of these are sold with are 100% horrific. Horrific. I cannot stress enough how much these should be avoided. I promise you the thought behind this was 'How can we make more money?' Oh, I know! Let's make our own product! We'll say that they're the only thing people should use with them. OMG that's genius!'.
  This was not a decision made for the benefit of your skin. I promise you. A foaming, SLS-laden soap, with a rotating (oscillating - whatever) power-blaster?? In some cases with grit? REALLY? It's like they sat together around a table and said 'What could we possibly make that could irritate the skin more than say, oh I don't know, a Brillo pad and Fairy liquid?'.

Why are they so popular?

Numerous reasons:

• Because of the timer system, in some cases it will be the first time that some people have thoroughly cleansed their face. If you massaged your skin with your hands for a full minute and removed a cleansing balm with a flannel after years of splashing off regular milks/gels your skin would feel the same way.
• If you've never used flannels and acid toners these brushes will without doubt exfoliate your skin. The first time you use it you will feel like your skin can 'breathe' properly. That's nothing you can't get with product and hands and without sanding your face.
• Marketing. AKA Keeping Up With the Jones'. Your mate has one, it's all over the press, you WANT it. Oh LOOK A PINK ONE! *man voice* OH LOOK! A black one!
• And why is is all over the press? Because they make money. BIG BIG BIG money for the companies that sell them. Not just the brands, the retailers. If you go into a store and someone tries to sell you this, I promise you they are trying to make their target for the day. They may not have even asked you what skin type you have before they've said 'Oh you know what YOU need?!'

BUT: you don't have to listen to me, I know some of you swear by them. Good for you. As I always say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. And don't stop something you love using on my accord.
If however, you have one sitting in your cupboard that you shelved because it didn't agree with your skin, dig it out. Use it on your feet. Or your bum. Lovely.

Personally, I think in years to come we will see an increase in broken capillaries, stubborn 'bumps' that don't come to a head and rosacea and I don't think they will be unrelated to the use of these 'brushes'. On that note, if you do suffer from eczema, acne or rosacea, for the love of ALL THAT IS SANITY you have no business blasting your face to kingdom come with these things. No matter what any sales person says.







Addition: in the name of full disclosure, I have held giveaways on the blog for similar 'cleansing brushes' in the past. This was over 3 years ago, well before they became the money-making-trend/craze that they are now. I've deleted those posts and it won't happen again. Sorry all.

Cheat Sheet - Double Cleansing

Over the last few months I have been asked a lot about double cleansing. I think it peaked this month because I am quoted in the March edition of American Elle magazine discussing this very topic.

It's out now if you fancy picking up a copy...

Anyway, I figured a few clearer details wouldn't hurt so without further ado...

Cleansing is by far the most important step of your routine. I don't care what anyone says, if you are consistently 'cleansing' (aka moving the dirt around your face) with wipes and then applying a really expensive serum/moisturiser on top, you are wasting your money. And your time. 

'Double Cleansing' is something that you may be doing already, this is just what I call it. 

Essentially, if you are using more than one product to remove your makeup in the evenings, you are already double cleansing.

For example, if you remove your eye makeup with a micellar water or eye makeup remover before you cleanse, that is your first cleanse. You follow with a proper cleanser to remove everything else. That was your second cleanse. Note: a micellar water is not your second cleanse. Stop that nonsense.

Let's be clear on this one first - there is no double cleansing in the mornings. Wake up, cleanse, you're good to go. You have no makeup or SPF to remove. Crack on.

Types of cleansers:

Mornings

Non-foaming gels 

Milks

Lotions

Balm cleansers

Oils

Clay-based cleansers

Basically anything except:

Wipes

Micellar water

The morning cleanse is dependent on how your skin feels when you wake up and what you are doing with the rest of your day. For example, if I have a long day ahead of wearing makeup I will probably use an oil to cleanse. My skin feels soft and holds moisture for longer afterwards which has a knock-on effect on the rest of my routine and stops my makeup going patchy by the afternoon.

If I'm home-based for the day I'll use something slightly more 'active', follow with a strong acid toner and use some treatment serums and heavier moisturisers. 

If you know you are going to be based at home for the day and not wearing makeup treat your skin as if it's a spa day. Cleanse, exfoliate, treat, repeat.  (repeat the treat, not the entire routine!) :)

This is why my skin looks great if I've had a few consecutive days working from home and looks merely 'ok' (by my standards - and I am my own harshest critic) if I've had appointments in town every day of the week. And don't get me started on travelling... that's a whole other cheat sheet. *makes note*

Wipes and micellar water are not suitable for mornings because you use them in an emergency or when removing makeup, and you won't be wearing makeup to bed will you? WILL YOU? 

Evenings

There is a fallacy doing the rounds that double cleansing means using oil followed by foam. No. 

Do what you need to do to remove what you've done to your face. You know your face/routine better than any beauty counter. Or me.

Wearing a ton of eye makeup? Remove it first. 

Slathered in SPF? Take care of that first. 

Both? Go in with grease. When in doubt, go in with grease.

First cleanse:

Eye makeup removers

Micellar waters

Greasy balms - not necessarily expensive ones, just ones that do a great job of removing makeup - such as Clinique TTDO and The Body Shop Camomile Butter

Cleansing creams - preferably thicker ones - a perfect example would be Clarins Extra Comfort Cleansing Cream - the one they discontinued - how rude.

Oils - oils are great for removing makeup, but you don't have to pick a really expensive one for the first cleanse.  

Second cleanse:

This is where you use your most expensive cleansing product. This one is your skin cleanser more than your makeup remover. Its job is to make sure your skin is clean, balanced and comfortable and ready for everything else that you are applying afterwards. It's time to use your good stuff.

You can obviously use one cleanser for both cleanses if you have budget concerns. Just buy the best that you can afford when you can afford it. We've all been there. Well, I certainly have. 

If you are using one product, apply a small amount for the first cleanse mainly to loosen eye makeup and cheek areas (where we tend to apply the most SPF). Remove with a flannel and go in again with another round. 

The second cleanse is the massage stage, not the first.

The best products for second cleanses are:

Cleansing balms - good ones. Gorgeous, plant-based, greasy ones. Greasy in the best way.

Cleansing milks 

Cleansing gels - non-foaming

Cleansing creams

Cleansing clays 

Cleansing oils - oils and balms are easily my favourite choice for skin cleansing. They are brilliant for ensuring that everything is off and don't disturb the acid mantle in an aggressive manner. 

That is really all there is to it. The important part is to remember to do it every single day without fail.

As with all other cheat sheets, I'll keep this updated with anything obvious that I've forgotten - and I'll try and answer any specific product Q's below - again it's easier if it's a Yes or No question. :)