Pestle & Mortar Exclusive Discount

OK here's the thing. I promise I'm not turning this site into a permanent 'discount' source, bear with.

After my recent review of the Pestle & Mortar Superstar Retinol Oil, it promptly sold out. The problem, however, is that many of you apparently attempted to buy it as part of their Black Friday offer, only to find it unavailable. This did not make you happy. You told them so, and they have listened.

The lovely people at P&M have asked me to let you know that Superstar is back in stock, and they are extending the 20% discount offer (on Superstar) to readers of this blog for a further week.

Your code is HIRONS20, it can only be used against Superstar Retinol Night Oil in the UK and the EU and your link is here: pestleandmortar.com/superstar-retinol-night-oil

Thanks Pestle & Mortar. Enjoy everyone!








*This post contains no affiliate links. P&M are one of my consulting clients. I receive no payment in kind/in part for blogging about them. See my full disclaimer here: http://bit.ly/1rpEmSq
The views expressed on this site are the author's own and are provided for informational purposes only. The author makes no warranties about the suitability of any product or treatment referenced or reviewed here for any person other than herself and any reliance placed on these reviews or references by you is done so solely at your own risk. Nothing on this site shall be construed as providing dermatological, medical or other such advice and you are always advised to seek the advice of a suitable professional should you have any such concerns.

Pestle & Mortar Superstar Retinol Night Oil

Describe the brand in three words.
Newish. Easy. Irish.

Who is it for?
Anyone in need of some good vitamin A action.
I.E. those of you worried about your pores (everyone). Dull, dehydrated, dry, oily, combo, ageing, smokers, drinkers - we literally all need vitamin A. If you're under 30 and healthy, it's not urgent. If you're over 40, it should be your priority.

What’s in it?
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil*, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil*, Rosa Canina (Fruit) Oil*, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed Oil**, Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Oil*, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinyl Palmitate, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil***, Nigella Sativa (Black Cumin) Seed Oil**, Calophyllum Inophyllum (Tamanu/Foraha) Seed Oil**, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil*, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tocopherol, Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil**, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil**.
*Cold Pressed | **Cold Pressed and Organic| ***Steam distilled

What's not in it?
mineral oil, parabens, propylene glycol, fragrance

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?
Not really

Suitable for pregnancy?
The brand will say 'No', but I used retinols happily through my later pregnancies and have advised clients accordingly. It's not going into your bloodstream, and it's not roaccutane, which is entirely different.

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?
It's a mixture, but in general it's organic/natural.

Tested on animals in home country/EU/sold in territories that require testing?
No/No/No

How does it smell?
Fragrance free

How do you use it?
Apply in the evenings after cleansing, wait and let it get to work (make a brew), then add your moisturiser etc before bed if required.

Can it be taken around the eyes?
Orbital bone

Best for winter or summer?
All times.

How long did I test it for?
A few months.

How much is it? /Size
£63.00 for 30ml.

Works well with?
Anything. It can be used and then left alone, or you can add a moisturiser on top should you wish. SPF in the daytime, obvs.

What’s the website like?
Good. Easy to manoeuvre and they list all of the ingredients.  pestleandmortar.com

How’s the distribution? Available freely or limited?
Limited. Details here: pestleandmortar.com/uk/stockists

What’s good about it?
This is the best retinol I've used outside of a prescription. Besides the basics: fragrance-free, airtight and opaque packaging, the vitamin A comes in two forms: palmitate and hydroxypinacolone retinoate, the same form used in Luna. The retinyl palmitate resurfaces, it doesn't penetrate as much, it's good for pore appearance, but the hydroxypinacolone retinoate (furthermore known as HR) is the killer ingredient. Those of you that saw me on the recent Roadshow will remember that I had a large allergy-related acne spot - literally a boil - on the underside of my jaw. This got rid of it in two uses. I get the same swelling anytime I'm exposed to shellfish and it has old scarring on the site. This has nearly fixed the scarring. 
It's gentle and non-drying due to the oil base, it's fragrance free, so those of you with problems in the smells dept are good to go.
My skin is smoother, and more refined, with the texture and colouring more even. The cold-pressed base oils definitely disguise the punch of the HR, you don't wake up dry and patchy. I find myself reaching for it most nights. Although the action is strong, the formula is gentle enough for a first-timer. I've had no redness, just brightness. Really, really good.

What’s not so good about it?
I'd like a 50ml bottle please.

Would I purchase/repurchase?
Yes.

Do you need it?
Yes.

Similar products?

Sunday Riley Luna

Medik8 Retinol 3TR

Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM  (close but retinol, not HR)


Pestle & Mortar Superstar Retinol Night Oil is £63.00 and available from PestleandMortar.com







*This post contains some affiliate links. However, as Pestle & Mortar are one of my business clients, I do not affiliate link to them. Nor do I tip them off that I am blogging about them.
If you are happy to click on them and support the blog, thank you very much. If you would rather not, just google the product. It's all good. See my full disclaimer here: http://bit.ly/1rpEmSq
The views expressed on this site are the author's own and are provided for informational purposes only. The author makes no warranties about the suitability of any product or treatment referenced or reviewed here for any person other than herself and any reliance placed on these reviews or references by you is done so solely at your own risk. Nothing on this site shall be construed as providing dermatological, medical or other such advice and you are always advised to seek the advice of a suitable professional should you have any such concerns.

Pestle & Mortar Giveaway Winners

The winners of the P&M Superstar Retinol Night Oil are:

• Jayne Shipley - UK
• Insa Vanessa - Germany
• Kate Lowry - UK

Congratulations!

Thank you Pestle & Mortar.

www.pestleandmortar.com

*This post contains no affiliate links.  See my full disclaimer here: http://bit.ly/1rpEmSq
The views expressed on this site are the author's own and are provided for informational purposes only. The author makes no warranties about the suitability of any product or treatment referenced or reviewed here for any person other than herself and any reliance placed on these reviews or references by you is done so solely at your own risk. Nothing on this site shall be construed as providing dermatological, medical or other such advice and you are always advised to seek the advice of a suitable professional should you have any such concerns.

Beauty Myths No. 19 - 'Pat dry'

This may seem like a strange one, so the context is important. I am always asked about routines and the order of using products. 

There are some things that make it onto packaging purely because NPD and marketing departments regurgitate the same advice time and time again, simply because it's what they've done before.

Obviously the main culprit is on cleanser packaging, or in cleansing routines when it says that after cleansing, you 'rinse off, then pat dry'. 

If you're soaking wet after a shower, you may want to lightly dry your face, mainly so you can see, but here's the thing: in an ideal world, you want a damp face. 

If you use your flannels and follow my routines, your skin will be damp once you've cleansed, you go from there straight to the next stage. Whether that's acids or spritzs, no need to pat dry. A damp skin is a great skin to work on. Seal in the moisture with your following products. 

There is one big exception: vitamin A.

Retinols, especially prescription strength ones, are applied to a dry skin after cleansing. I cleanse, remove it with a flannel, and leave my skin to air for a few minutes (usually enough time to make tea, not hours) before I apply the retinoid. Then I use whatever else I'm using on top. 

Patting the skin dry is not necessary. Damp dry is good.

Go straight in.

Dr Brandt Glow Overnight Resurfacing Serum

What is it?

'A potent nighttime skin renewal serum with retinol.'

Who is it for?

People looking for the extra boost that retinols give. Vitamin A is a proven ingredient that can help reverse the signs of ageing. Everyone should use one. Well, not kids, obviously - but if you're over 30 I'd get busy. 

What’s in it?

Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Isoamyl Laurate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Shea Butter Esters, Triheptanoin, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Behenyl Alcohol, Methylpropanediol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Retinol, Glyceryl Stearate, Simmonsia Chenesis (Jojoba) Oil, Xanthan Gum, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Citrus Nobilis Oil, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic /Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Glycine Soya Sterols, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Maslinic Acid, Phenylpropanol, Bht, Sodium Phytate, Dimethiconol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Honey, Pectin, Phospholipids, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Heliantus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Glycine Soya Oil.

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?

shea butter

essential oils

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?

man made with some natural ingredients

Tested on animals/sold in China?

No/Yes

What's not in it?

mineral oil

parabens

sulfates 

phthalates 

How do you use it?/Where to use in your routine?

'Apply after cleansing, a thin layer all over the face.'

It may not surprise you to know that I used this after acids. I used it directly over my Dennis Gross MD Extra Strength pads and it was absolutely fine. More of that here: Beauty Myth No.9

Use in the PM and obviously mind your SPF if you're in warmer climes to keep the newer skin protected.

What’s good about it?

I have tested a lot of retinols in my time, this one gave me noticeable results overnight. There was visible fading of some spot scars, 'tighter' skin and it was certainly firmer. 

As always, nothing will compare with prescription retinol, but if you're not quite ready for that yet, this is a great way to go in the meantime. It's the best I've used thus far. 

What’s not so good about it?

Well it's not that it's not good exactly, but it says it contains 2% retinol complex. Eagle-eyed readers will notice that the retinol is listed after phenoxyethanol, which immediately should tell us that it is 1% or less. 

So I don't know if the labelling is incorrect, the claim is exaggerated, the retinol is in a complex that somehow pushes it over 2% when it's all added together? I don't know. But in this case, it works, so I'm not overly fussed. (I have asked the question to them directly btw, will keep you posted if I get an answer). It doesn't put me off the product however, as the proof is indeed in the pudding. 

Dr Brandt Glow Overnight Resurfacing Serum is £73.00 from Feelunique.com and $85.00 from Sephora.com 

Similar products?

Paula's Choice Retinol 1%

Kate Somerville Retasphere

Sunday Riley Luna

Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM

Paula's Choice Clinical 1% Retinol Treatment

What is it?

'Sun damage that won't go away? Wrinkles keeping you up at night? Don't get mad, get powerful.'

or in other words - an overnight retinol anti-ageing treatment.

Who is it for?

'Acne, Anti-Ageing, Breakouts, Brown Spots, Wrinkles'      

Anyone looking for a proven anti-ageing treatment.

What’s in it?

(What isn't in it!?!! --->)

Aqua, Dimethicone (silicone slip agent), Glycerin (skin-repairing ingredient), Butylene Glycol (slip agent/penetration enhancer), Isononyl Isononanoate (emollient), Castor Isostearate Succinate (skin conditioning agent), Glyceryl Stearate (emulsifier), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (thickener), Dimethicone Crosspolymer (silicone thickener/texture enhancer), PEG-33 (binding agent), Polysorbate 20 (emulsifier), Behenyl Alcohol (fatty alcohol thickener), Retinol (cell-communicating ingredient), Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (vitamin C/antioxidant), Ceramide 2 (skin-repairing ingredient), Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (cell-communicating ingredient), Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (cell-communicating ingredient), Sodium Hyaluronate (skin-repairing ingredient), Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (antioxidant plant extract/anti-irritant), Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (antioxidant plant extract/anti-irritant), Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernal Extract (antioxidant plant extract/anti-irritant), Arctium Lappa (Burdock) Root Extract (antioxidant plant extract/anti-irritant), Salix Alba (Willow) Root Extract (antioxidant plant extract/anti-irritant), Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (antioxidants/skin-conditioning agent), Lecithin (cell-communicating ingredient), Allantoin (anti-irritant), Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E/antioxidant), Hydrolized Soy Protein (antioxidant), sorbitan Laurate (emulsifier), Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester (anti-irritant), Disodium EDTA (stabilizer), Hydroxyethylcellulose (thickener), Sodium Hydroxide (pH adjuster), Tribehenin (emollient), Caprylyl Glycol (skin-conditioning agent), Ethylhexylglycerin (skin conditioning agent), Pentylene Glycol (slip agent), PEG-100 Stearate (thickener), PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides (emollient), PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer (film-forming agent), PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol (fatty acid-based thickener), PEG-8 Dimethicone (sillicon-based skin-conditioning agent), PEG-14 (thickener), Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate (binding agent), Polymethylsilsesquioxane (sillicone-based opacyfying agent), Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (slip agent), Arachidyl Glycoside (emulsifier), Sclerotium Gum (thickener), Arachidyl Alcohol (thickener), Benzoic Acid (preservative), Sodium Carbomer (gel based thickener), Phenoxyethanol (preservative).

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?

Silicones (I don't mind silicones at all but I know some of you do)

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?

Man made, vegan as far as I can see.

Tested on animals/sold in China?

No/No

What's not in it?

Fragrance

Mineral oil (odd considering the brand champions it, but also sensible considering this ingredient needs to penetrate and it won't do that if it's in a mineral oil base)

Parabens

How do you use it?

'Apply a pea-sized amount after cleansing and toning, and then follow with your Paula's Choice serum and/or nighttime moisturizer. When first using the Clinical 1% Retinol, start with no more than three evenings per week, then gradually increase frequency to every other night and, finally, every evening as tolerated (measure how your skin responds). Avoid the lips, direct contact with the eye, and corners of the eyes. You may apply up to the orbital bone of the eye area.'

Good, sensible instructions except for the 'follow with PC serum and/or moisturiser'. You could perfectly well follow this with a serum or moisturiser from one of Paula's competition - just try and avoid using one that contains a lot of retinol/vitamin A!

What’s good about it?

This is a good product. If you read the website you'd think it was the second coming of Jesus (can't blame them for that - it IS their brand after all) - but nonetheless, it is indeed a good product. 

It is not, as they claim, the strongest retinol on the market without prescription, brands like Skinceutcals have been doing 1% retinol treatments for years.

This moisturises nicely, gives me no 'burn' or irritated feeling and is fragrance-free, which I know will please a lot of you!

Results for me were good, no peeling or redness at all, but then my skin may be more acclimatised to retinols than yours, so always take heed from the tips on the website.

If you aren't using vitamin A products at the moment, and you are in your 20's or have acne scarring, try this.

If you aren't using vitamin A products at the moment and you are the other side of 30, you need to get with the programme because your face will fall off by the time you're 70. 

Slight exaggeration, but you get my point. Vitamin A takes your face to the gym. It needs the exercise. Embrace it. Even if you do it while lying on the sofa watching Corrie.

What’s not so good about it?

It's not that it's 'not good', but that ingredient list tells you everything you need to know about most US brands. They take a 'throw everything at it and something will work approach' - it's like a buffet in an all-you-can-eat-restaurant. Offer everything, there will be something for everyone. Or in this case, offer everything, something will give results. 

That being said, retinol/proper anti-ageing creams will always be more complicated formulas than most natural ones. Which is fine by me. You get to a certain age, if you really want results, you need to embrace the chemical. Sorry but it's true. I'm all for natural and organic cleansers and moisturisers, but nothing is more anti-ageing than proper clinical vitamin A. You don't get that from bloody rosehips IMO. This retinol actually works.

Where to use in your routine?

After toning, before serum and/or moisturiser.

Similar products? (Similar, not same)

Skinceuticals 1% Retinol

Dennis Gross Ferulic Acid + Retinol Brightening Solution 

Brand Website - very good:

www.paulaschoice.co.uk

Incidentally, everything I hate about bad websites (too numerous to mention) is the exact opposite of the website for Paula's Choice. It has ingredients, explanations, great product information and good advice. If I was marking websites, hers is hard to beat. Cult Beauty is another one that comes to mind for a retailer, but brand-wise, this is the dog's gonads.

Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment is £51.50 for 30ml and only available online at said website..

Beauty Myth No. 9 - You can't use retinols with AHA's/during the daytime

WAIT. YOU USE RETINOL DURING THE DAY?

YUP.

STOP IT. YOU USE RETINOL WHEN YOU'VE USED ACIDS????

YUP.

Let's all take a cleansing breath shall we?

There you go. All better?

Let's keep it brief and separate some major JK Rowling fiction from the facts.

FACTS:

• Retinol/Vitamin A is a proven anti-ager. We're all in agreement on this. The EU, the FDA, every brand, every dermatologist, every crazy blogger that uses GIFs of Kristen Wiig to make a point.
• Retinol reverses the signs of ageing and encourages your skin to keep doing that whole cell-turnover thing that we so badly need as we age. It does this really, really, really well. REALLY well.
• Retinols unclog and minimise the appearance of pores, boost collagen production, even out discolouration and smooth and soften the skin.  
• Tretinoin/prescription strength retinoids are a different ballgame. You get these from a doctor, not a brand. They will come with very clear, medical instructions.
• Brands would like you to think that over the counter is as strong, but they're not. Hence the 'Whoa there, this is really super strong - you need gloves and a mask to apply and for the love of GOD do not let your face out in sunshine!!!!' OK I'm exaggerating, but you see where I'm going...

FICTION:

• Retinol makes you sensitive to the sun. PLEASE HOLD CALLER. No it doesn't. The ingredient itself can degrade in the sun in certain formulations, but it isn't going to melt your face. Summer is a good time to start using retinols as humidity in the air can actually help your skin and stop it drying out. 
• Retinols and acids (AHA's and BHA's) both exfoliate and therefore are too strong for the skin when used together. STOP YOURSELF. They work on different levels of the skin.
  Acids take care of the top layers and get rid of all the old dusty skin, a bit like dusting your furniture. They exfoliate.
  Retinols work at a deeper layer - never the twain shall meet. The acid holds the door open for the retinols to pass by...Retinols are cell communicators. If you are flaking or peeling when using a vitamin a product - you may want to reconsider - it's possibly too strong for you.
  
  
• Retinol must be avoided in pregnancy. NOPE. This stems from the fact that roaccutane - oral Vitamin A used as an acne treatment - absolutely 100% cannot be used when you are pregnant or hoping to conceive. Anyone prescribed roaccutane will know this and will have been given the facts upon receiving their prescription.
  There is a HUGE difference in taking a pill and ingesting it and using a cream topically on the skin. NOW - I'm not suggesting that you go crazy and use all the retinols when you are pregnant - what I AM saying is that if you've been using anti-ageing creams containing retinols and just found out you are pregnant - please do not worry. (You would be surprised at the amount of times I have come across this with clients.)
  There is not one recorded case of retinol in skin care causing birth defects in a baby. None.
  Doctors are just being extra cautious. And brands don't want to get sued. Simples. Follow the manufacturers advice, and be sensible. Don't have a heart attack if you've been using a night cream that has retinyl palmitate in it and you are 16 weeks pregnant. Please.

Please, please do not worry about using retinols during the day or after you've acid toned. It will be OK. They are the Number One anti-ageing ingredient. Proven. Done. Sealed deal. Game over. Modern formulations and technology can protect the vitamin a content in the formula. Check packaging on your favourite products and ask the brand directly if in doubt. And always, always use an SPF if you use any products containing retinols/high strength vitamin a - at any time.

Embrace the retinols - I can do a cheat sheet if there's a need - but they are your friend.