Beauty Myths No. 19 - 'Pat dry'

This may seem like a strange one, so the context is important. I am always asked about routines and the order of using products. 

There are some things that make it onto packaging purely because NPD and marketing departments regurgitate the same advice time and time again, simply because it's what they've done before.

Obviously the main culprit is on cleanser packaging, or in cleansing routines when it says that after cleansing, you 'rinse off, then pat dry'. 

If you're soaking wet after a shower, you may want to lightly dry your face, mainly so you can see, but here's the thing: in an ideal world, you want a damp face. 

If you use your flannels and follow my routines, your skin will be damp once you've cleansed, you go from there straight to the next stage. Whether that's acids or spritzs, no need to pat dry. A damp skin is a great skin to work on. Seal in the moisture with your following products. 

There is one big exception: vitamin A.

Retinols, especially prescription strength ones, are applied to a dry skin after cleansing. I cleanse, remove it with a flannel, and leave my skin to air for a few minutes (usually enough time to make tea, not hours) before I apply the retinoid. Then I use whatever else I'm using on top. 

Patting the skin dry is not necessary. Damp dry is good.

Go straight in.

Beauty Myths No.18 - eye creams fix genetic dark circles

Dark circles driving you mad? Tried everything under the sun? Whilst there are limited things that you can do about them and definitely things that make them worse, if they are genetic, i.e., if you know for a fact that ma and pa gave them to you, you are limited in what you can do.

I'm talking specifically to my lovely Asian readers, darker-toned readers and even my lovely red-headed extremely pale readers. If you can see dark circles, and to your knowledge, there is no particular reason for them, look at your parents/immediate family. If they also have them, you're probably genetically lined up in a similar fashion, and there isn't a cream alive that will safely deal with that kind of dark circle.

Sure, there are excellent eye creams out there that can take the edge off, and some brightening ones that will 'lift' the appearance of them, but anyone that looks you in the eye and says 'this cream will absolutely fix your dark circles' is either misinformed, or not being completely straight with you. It's a little easier for those of us with occasional dark circles caused by things like illness, dehydration, too much of a good (bad) thing, but genetics are hard to mess with. 

Eye Cream Cheat Sheet - this is really old, I should probably do an updated version:  www.carolinehirons.com/eye-cream-cheat-sheet

All eye cream reviews - www.carolinehirons.com/eyecreams

Beauty Myths No. 17- It's ok to sleep in your makeup

Enough already.

Charlotte Tilbury, whom I know and love (but who will be on the receiving end of a large 'eyebrow' when I next see her), had a conversation with Kim Kardashian that KK quotes thus:

"Charlotte Tilbury is my hero because she has never let her husband see her without makeup on. She sleeps with her makeup on. She's my idol. She's inspired me when I am really lazy and I can't do my makeup the next day, so I'll sleep in my makeup. I know that's probably the worst advice, but she has all the magic creams to put on the next day to make up for it."

No, Kimberly, she doesn't. No-one does. Whatever Charlotte wants to do in her private life is entirely up to Charlotte and her husband. But as I always say, does your husband leave his makeup on for you? Please.

STOP SAYING that it is ok to sleep in your makeup. It's not. If the average woman wears any kind of mix of the following:

SPF
primer
foundation
powder
concealer
blusher
bronzer
eyeshadow (multiple)
eyeliner
mascara
brow pencil
lipliner
lipstick
lipgloss

That is a LOT of product on your face. SPF in particular, is designed to stick to your face, that's its job. Add to that all the dirt and pollution from walking outside and you have the perfect storm brewing for spots, dehydration, dullness - a whole plethora of issues that you do not want.

PLEASE WASH YOUR BLOODY FACES.

FILTH. Stop it immediately!



*Update.
I have disabled comments temporarily until I can moderate the more aggressive ones. I love CT, I've met KK, and she was perfectly lovely to me. I'm not publishing hate. (The hate was aimed at CT and KK, not me)
While I'm serious about the message of washing your face, I'm even more serious about not jumping on a bandwagon and slagging women off for the sake of it.


Thanks.

Beauty Myths No.16 - Active vs 'Inactive' Ingredient

What used to relate purely to ingredients that qualify as drugs, is now used as a marketing tool industry-wide and to say that the terms 'active' and 'inactive' are overused and abused by marketing departments everywhere is an understatement.

Active ingredients - traditionally, when used in products considered drugs i.e. SPF products - are 'any component of a drug product intended to provide therapeutic and pharmacological activity in direct effect to a diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease, or to affect the structure or any function of the body of humans.' 

Depending on your country, retinoids, acids, sunscreens like oxybenzone and avobenzone are all considered 'active'.

They are considered active enough to change the structure of the skin. Take prescription strength retinoids. In a product like that, the vitamin A will be classed as the drug and therefore 'active' and the rest of the ingredients are 'inactive' because they make up the formula/emulsify/are the delivery system and do not actually change the structure of skin at all. A lot of ingredients considered truly 'active' will have a maximum % that they are allowed to be used at in any formula.

Inactive ingredients - officially, are 'any component of a drug product other than the active ingredients.'

However, we are now seeing the words 'active' and 'inactive' bounded about everywhere as the general rule, not the exception to be used only in the case of drugs.

A brand will say 'active' ingredients are peptides, vitamin c, seaweed, whale sperm, witch's warts...pick something. What they actually mean when they say this is 'what we are charging you the big bucks for'.

Inactive ingredients are all too often completely glossed over, ignored or relegated to the very smallest font on the pack and except in the rarest of circumstances, essentially mean 'the bulk of the product' i.e. water/carrier oils etc.

The potential problems arise when unknowing customers purchase something assuming that 'inactive' means 'has no effect on the skin'. Just because something doesn't change the structure of the skin ('active') does not mean that something does not affect the skin. 

Alcohol, fragrance and silicones, for example, are all 'inactive' ingredients, yet the ones I am asked about the most from readers. You can bet that a high level of alcohol in a product will be 'active' on your skin in some way.

If a bacon sandwich was skincare, the bacon would be labelled on the pack as the 'active' ingredient, but the bread would certainly be an active ingredient to someone with a gluten intolerance or a wheat allergy.

Ignore the marketing hype, read the ingredients label. That's where you see what is likely to be an 'inactive' ingredient that could actually be something 'active' for you to look out for.

Some brands have started using bold type for their 'active' ingredients in their inci lists in order to make them stand out. Clever, but not if you know what you are looking at. 

Tomorrow: how to read an ingredients label.

Beauty Myths No.15 - Micellar Waters are a 'proper' cleanser

Source - Marie Claire - Design by Katja Cho

I am frequently tagged on twitter or Instagram whenever there is an article singing the praises about micellar waters, cleansing, mineral oil, wipes (God - always the wipes!) online or in a magazine. 

It's a daily occurence and I read as many of them as I can. Sometimes for a laugh, sometimes I agree with them. As always, whatever works for you, do. 

Yesterday though, Marie Claire posted this article 'Ditch the Cleanser: 6 reasons to make the switch to micellar water' and I had to stop and read it, aghast.

Micellar waters were originally designed to be used for those occasional times when you have no access to water, like backstage, hence the huge awareness of Bioderma. 

Firstly: I will never, for the life of me, understand people who think that using these products are 'quicker' than washing your face. If using micellar water is 'quicker' than washing your face, you're using them incorrectly. A quick swipe across the forehead is not going to do it. When I have to use them backstage at shows it takes me at least four sets of two separate cotton pads to clean the face of makeup. Used both sides. That's not quick. 
Add to that the constant rubbing of cotton wool and ingredients that aren't exactly 'softening' and you're setting yourself up for a sore face.

The reason this Marie Claire article riled me was this sentence: 'Plus, it's free of soap, fragrance, alcohol, and other abrasive chemicals that can wreak havoc on your complexion daily.'

Erm..no. Just no. These waters are all chemical, some contain alcohol and most contain fragrance. 

Before those of you that have to use micellar waters jump to their defence, I've already said, do what you have to. Work situations, new babies, flying, the gym - micellar waters can come in handy.

But try and make them a temporary substitute, not a permanent fixture. 

Beauty Myths No.14 - Antibiotics work for acne

Copyright Geof Kirby

Acne. Apparently the second most searched word on the internet, after porn (obvs).

It's easily the topic of my most-asked questions and the lead search on this site.

I know I've already said this over on the cheat sheets for acne ---> and it won't be anything new to regular readers, but please, please think carefully before taking antibiotics for your acne.

Whilst there are a few forms of oral antibiotics that may kill off bacteria in your oil glands, what if your acne is hormonal? Food allergy related? Have you had it for years? Antibiotics are pointless in those situations. You may get some relief initially but as soon as you stop taking them - and in most cases before, the spots are back. Why?
Because they're not bacterial - and you may already be resistant to the antibiotics prescribed.

Prescribing long-term antibiotic use is tantamount to abuse in my eyes. Antibiotics are without doubt a wonder drug. For treating the right illness.
Strep throat? Bacterial - get a prescription for it. Sore throat? Virus. Antibiotics don't work for that. It goes without saying that if you are required to take antibiotics long-term for chronic illness, then I am not talking about your situation.
Meningitis or pneumonia? Antibiotics will save your life. Literally. I'm not bashing the drug. I'm bashing the over-prescribing of them by doctors who should know better.

And in the case of acne, especially in the UK, an antibiotic prescription is the first port of call from nearly every GP. Rather than refer you to a dermatologist or look at topical creams themselves, they write the PrX for tetracycline or erythromycin and send you on your way.

It's your body. In your desperation for answers you may want to take anything thrown at you. But I would urge you to do a lot of research, make serious adjustments to your diet and lifestyle, ask about all the other options and most importantly, think of the side effects.

Long-term antibiotic use can:

wreak havoc with your digestive system

make you incredibly sensitive to the sun

destroy tooth enamel

make you resistant to antibiotic usage for severe infections

give you thrush on a continuous basis - which you then also need to medicate..

That's just for starters. 

I know what it's like to have bad skin, do what you have to do to make yourself look and most importantly, feel better.

But please arm yourself with as many facts as you can before you start down this path. And if you've been taking them for months (or years) and you still have acne, listen to your body, stop taking them.

Beauty Myths No.13 - Cellulite Creams

Not one of these women look tortured by having cellulite.

Fact: Cellulite is not caused by trapped 'toxins'. Is anyone else sick of that word? If we were as 'toxic' as some parts of the industry would have us believe we'd all be dead. A long time ago.

Fact: Cellulite is caused when your underlying fat cells start to push through connective tissue. Connective tissue is weakened by a mixture of things - including hormones, lack of exercise, poor muscle tone, excess fat, and poor circulation.

Fact: 90% of women get cellulite compared to 10% of men. They have stronger connective tissue. They still have fat underneath it, it's just not as easy for it to escape. How rude.

Fact: It gets worse for women as we age. Lack of oestrogen makes it worse.

Fact: It's in your genes. Look at your Mum and Grandmother. If they have it....

Fact: Some fillers and injectables can help - albeit temporarily - and it only really works on very slim people who have the odd 'dent' rather than full blown cellulite legs. Think models before catwalk shows/big shoots.

Fact: Lasers, massage (specific for this problem) and radio frequency treatments can help but again it will only be temporary. And it takes a ton of sessions. Personally, I think your time would be better spent at the gym/walking for an hour rather than lying flat out letting someone pound the area in vain...

Fact: Liposuction does nothing. It's like removing a bit of stuffing from a pillow. Leaves an indentation, doesn't magically spread the fat around nice and neatly.

Fact: Water helps. Eating veg that are water-heavy and drinking a lot of water throughout the day every day, helps. It doesn't fix it, it can help.

Fact: Smoking makes it worse. It weakens connective tissue (collagen). See first point.

Fact: There is not one cellulite cream on the market that gets rid of cellulite. Not one. Either by prescription or over the counter, it makes no difference.
They may make your skin feel softer and smoother, but they aren't shifting the fat. 


Eat well, move around more, drink plenty of water, take care of your health in general. And even after you've done all that, your genes may well just insist that you keep your cellulite. 
Save your money. 

Beauty Myths No.12 - You have to use everything from the same brand

Ever since I started putting pictures of my daily routine on Instagram I have been asked these two questions: 'Do you use different products every DAY?' and 'Don't you have to use everything from one brand in order for them to really work?'

The answers are 'Yes'. And then 'No'.

Yes, I use different skincare every day. In the same way that I wear different clothes and eat different food. And I always have. Even when wildly restricted by budget, I would have at least two moisturisers and 2/3 cleansers on rotation. Your skin is different every day. So should your products be.

No, you don't have to use everything from the same brand. The only thing to be concerned about are clashing vitamin A products that you get on prescription, but in that case, your doctor would have advised you separately about what to use/not use when issuing the prescription. 

Over the counter products very rarely 'clash' because the %'s of active ingredients are low - they won't build up/interfere with each other.

What IS important is the order you use items and the formulas themselves. Your serum from XYZ won't know that your moisturiser is from ABC and stop working in protest. That's not how it works, no matter what sales hype you are given from the brands at counter. 

My products, as a rule, tend to have peptides, hyaluronic acid and vitamin a (at night) in them. Varying strengths, varying formulas, similar ingredients. There are thousands of products out there. Embrace them (again, obviously within your budget).

The next time someone tells you that you simply have to use their moisturiser on top of their serum, don't buy either of them. 

Or you could hold up this picture of Danny Devito below and say 'I DON'T THINK SO MATEY.'

Beauty Myths No.11 - Detox

Detox products. 

Detox creams.

 Detox teas. 

Detox pads for your feet. 

Detox hair straighteners.

Enough. If your body was 'full of toxins' you would at best, be very ill and at worst, dead. See: septicemia.

The word 'detox' belongs in a hospital or drug-dependency unit.

If you mean 'keep yourself as healthy as possible' then...

• keep hydrated - with water. Diet coke doesn't count people.
• don't smoke
• eat well
• exercise (or just go for a bloody walk/have a good regular stretching session)
• get enough sunshine or supplement with vitamin D

Leave the rest to your lungs, kidneys, skin and liver.*

Stop hijacking the word to sell more product.

*Obviously if any of those are compromised in you, my apologies, I'm not referring to you. That's what doctors are for.

Beauty Myths No.10 - Waiting lists

Right. Happy Friday everyone! WHOOP. Down to business. Waiting lists. You know the things. Those long lists of 'literally thousands' of people 'eagerly awaiting!'. See the Daily Fail (link warning) most days for the latest one.

Here's the thing. They don't exist. At least not in the way that they are portrayed. Nowhere is there a list with thousands of names of people eagerly awaiting whatever product that marketing company is being paid to push that week.

In the case of something like the iPhone 6, with 10 million sold in the first weekend of sales, the majority on pre-order, i.e. already bought and paid for; that's a legitimate claim. It's fact.

A 'waiting list' for beauty products simply doesn't exist in the way that some marketing departments - or brands - would have you believe. It's all hype to make you want the product more and keep up with the Jones'.

If the product is really as 'wanted' as that, release it to market, let it genuinely sell out everywhere and spread via word of mouth. Stop this nonsense. It's Friday. We're all over here just trying to chill.

Beauty Myth No. 9 - You can't use retinols with AHA's/during the daytime

WAIT. YOU USE RETINOL DURING THE DAY?

YUP.

STOP IT. YOU USE RETINOL WHEN YOU'VE USED ACIDS????

YUP.

Let's all take a cleansing breath shall we?

There you go. All better?

Let's keep it brief and separate some major JK Rowling fiction from the facts.

FACTS:

• Retinol/Vitamin A is a proven anti-ager. We're all in agreement on this. The EU, the FDA, every brand, every dermatologist, every crazy blogger that uses GIFs of Kristen Wiig to make a point.
• Retinol reverses the signs of ageing and encourages your skin to keep doing that whole cell-turnover thing that we so badly need as we age. It does this really, really, really well. REALLY well.
• Retinols unclog and minimise the appearance of pores, boost collagen production, even out discolouration and smooth and soften the skin.  
• Tretinoin/prescription strength retinoids are a different ballgame. You get these from a doctor, not a brand. They will come with very clear, medical instructions.
• Brands would like you to think that over the counter is as strong, but they're not. Hence the 'Whoa there, this is really super strong - you need gloves and a mask to apply and for the love of GOD do not let your face out in sunshine!!!!' OK I'm exaggerating, but you see where I'm going...

FICTION:

• Retinol makes you sensitive to the sun. PLEASE HOLD CALLER. No it doesn't. The ingredient itself can degrade in the sun in certain formulations, but it isn't going to melt your face. Summer is a good time to start using retinols as humidity in the air can actually help your skin and stop it drying out. 
• Retinols and acids (AHA's and BHA's) both exfoliate and therefore are too strong for the skin when used together. STOP YOURSELF. They work on different levels of the skin.
  Acids take care of the top layers and get rid of all the old dusty skin, a bit like dusting your furniture. They exfoliate.
  Retinols work at a deeper layer - never the twain shall meet. The acid holds the door open for the retinols to pass by...Retinols are cell communicators. If you are flaking or peeling when using a vitamin a product - you may want to reconsider - it's possibly too strong for you.
  
  
• Retinol must be avoided in pregnancy. NOPE. This stems from the fact that roaccutane - oral Vitamin A used as an acne treatment - absolutely 100% cannot be used when you are pregnant or hoping to conceive. Anyone prescribed roaccutane will know this and will have been given the facts upon receiving their prescription.
  There is a HUGE difference in taking a pill and ingesting it and using a cream topically on the skin. NOW - I'm not suggesting that you go crazy and use all the retinols when you are pregnant - what I AM saying is that if you've been using anti-ageing creams containing retinols and just found out you are pregnant - please do not worry. (You would be surprised at the amount of times I have come across this with clients.)
  There is not one recorded case of retinol in skin care causing birth defects in a baby. None.
  Doctors are just being extra cautious. And brands don't want to get sued. Simples. Follow the manufacturers advice, and be sensible. Don't have a heart attack if you've been using a night cream that has retinyl palmitate in it and you are 16 weeks pregnant. Please.

Please, please do not worry about using retinols during the day or after you've acid toned. It will be OK. They are the Number One anti-ageing ingredient. Proven. Done. Sealed deal. Game over. Modern formulations and technology can protect the vitamin a content in the formula. Check packaging on your favourite products and ask the brand directly if in doubt. And always, always use an SPF if you use any products containing retinols/high strength vitamin a - at any time.

Embrace the retinols - I can do a cheat sheet if there's a need - but they are your friend. 

Beauty Myth No.8 - Moisturiser is your most important purchase

Source

I've lost count of the amount of times I've had a conversation with people who are using an incredibly expensive moisturiser - but cleansing (or not) with wipes/a quick wash in the shower.

Your moisturiser is your coat. It's your protection and 'cushion' from the elements. Of course it's important - and yes, you can find moisturisers that contain all sorts of lovely wonderful things such as peptides, retinols and other active ingredients, but those ingredients will generally work better for you in a serum where they can more freely penetrate and get to work while your moisturiser stands guard.

There is absolutely no point in buying the latest 'wonder' cream if you've done no prep work. If you spend a fair amount of cash on your cleansing routine - to include acid toners - and a bit more on a serum, you can get away with saving your pennies on a moisturiser.

There are of course, as with anything in life, exceptions. If you are 40+ it would be worth using a high-tech moisturiser alongside your serum that also contains the actives found in your serum. Attack it from all angles by all means.

If you are on a tight budget spend what money you do have on exfoliating acids and a good serum - and you can get away with cheaper cleansers and moisturisers.

How much time do you spend choosing your coat in the morning compared to picking your outfit?

Your cleanse-tone-serum routine is your outfit. Put the work in and you'll see the results.

Just don't forget your coat.

Beauty Myth No.7 - Organic: is it or isn't it?

During my talk/appointments in Liberty this last week I came across a few questions of using organic vs 'chemical' and the tenuous use of the word 'natural' (don't get me started on that one).

This is not so much a myth as a question for the end consumer: 'Are the products that you are using as 'organic' as they claim - and what amounts to 'organic' anyway?

In 2008 alone there were 6 different bodies that gave out organic accreditation in the EU. 13 bodies worldwide.
All of them with different requirements. What is organic for one may not be enough for another. It is as confusing as it is frustrating.

I am frequently asked 'Is it natural?' or 'Is it organic?' and to be honest my answer is always: 'compared to what?'

If organic is important to you - do your research thoroughly. You may be paying for something that came out of the ground/from nature - but if it did so via truly organic channels is open to question.

Brands that are obsessively organic will tell you how, why, when and where their products came from. If there is no trail, I'd ask questions.

Beauty Myth No.6 - Having spots means you have an oily/combination skin.

Most of the people I see have normal/dry/sensitive skin with spots. This is very different to acne.

I've only ever referred 3 people for roaccutane or medical intervention treatment in my entire career.

The vicious circle. It usually occurs via two paths.

Vicious Circle One: 
You had acne as a teenager and are now 28/34/47 and continue to treat your skin as if it is acnaic - even though your skin moved on when you were 19/20 and is actually normal - underneath that redness and sensitivity that was caused by years of using products for oily/combination skin - which dries it out and 'mattifies' (*cries*) it - which causes it to over-produce oil, give you angry red spots, burning cheeks and lead you to think that you are still an oily/combo skin and that your skin hates you. And usually makes you hate your skin and despair.

Vicious Circle Two:
You once had a few breakouts and went to a beauty counter/had a facial where you were told you had an oily/combination skin because your sales assistant/therapist has been trained in no way other than spots = acne = oily/combination = foaming = mattifying. Your skin was actually pretty normal. Now it's oily because it's dried out and is desperately trying to replenish itself so you are oily by 12/3pm and keep thinking that you have an 'oily' skin. You thus think you're doing everything wrong and your skin hates you. And usually makes you hate your skin and despair.

Below are pictures of one of my clients with a true 'acne' breakout. (used with their permission obviously)

I'm not suggesting that if your skin does not look like this that you don't have a problem.
I'm simply suggesting that we overuse the word 'acne' across the industry and don't train our people well enough to detect the difference between acne and hormonal breakouts/food intolerance spots or product reactions for example...
The majority of the people I see with breakouts have a normal/slightly dehydrated or sensitised skin with spots. That is very very different to acne. It can happen to anyone for any reason.
As a matter of interest the same client is pictured below after treatment:

So please, please. The next time you have breakouts - even if they are multiple - in different areas of the face - at different time of the month. They are spots. Don't treat your entire face as if you have an acne/combination skin. 

Think about what it could be. What have you done differently? have you ever had intolerance tests for food?Is your period due? Have you been on a 3 day bender?? Are you using an SLS shampoo in the shower and letting it run all over your face?

Treat the spots, take care of the skin. It is not your enemy. Don't treat it like it is.

Spots and acne are two very different things.

Beauty Myths No.5 - if you have oily skin you don't need to moisturise

I beg to differ.

The biggest mistake people with oily/combination skin make is to try and 'strip' the skin during the cleansing stage - to the point where it squeaks (faints) - and then not apply anything else on top and just go.

Your face is not a shampoo advert. You cannot just 'wash'n'go'.

For the more lubricated of us:

1. Cleanse your face with a good non-foaming cleanser (oil/balm/gel - no mineral oil and no fairy liquid).
2. Exfoliate with an acidic toner.
3. Spray hydrate.
4. Apply a light water-based serum to target specific skin conditions (ageing, pigmentation, scarring/dehydration etc) if that is a concern.
5. Apply either a moisturiser (am) or a facial oil (pm) designed for your skin type.

Use serums to treat your skin condition.

Use moisturisers/facial oils to treat your skin type.

Washing your face and going out with nothing on it is akin to leaving the house butt-naked. 
Frankly, you should be arrested on sight.

Coming up: the difference between skin conditions and skin types.

Beauty Myths No. 4 - Lemon Juice

Source

'Adding lemon juice to your cleanser will exfoliate your skin!'

Eat it. Don't add it to any product. Case in point: anyone remember Sun-In from the 80's? Lots of brunette girls going around with orange hair. Nice.

Go Make yourself a gin & tonic. With a nice bit of lemon.

*Cheers*

Beauty Myths No. 3 - Cleansing in the AM

'Do I really need to cleanse my face in the morning?' 

I've been asked this a lot recently - a lot. On the blog, on twitter, on Instagram.

In all honesty, I don't even know where to begin. 

Genuine question: Why WOULDN'T you wash your face in the morning??

'I don't have time.'

Get up earlier.

'I don't really need to, it feels fine, it has a lovely glow.'

Yes love, it's called sweat. Get thee to a sink.

'I read that so-and-so just uses a wipe to 'freshen.' 

So-and-so clearly has personal hygiene issues.

'I'm really sensitive, cleansing twice a day is too much.'

You're using the wrong cleanser.

'I'm really combination, if I cleanse in the morning my face is an oil slick by 10am.'

Stop using Fairy Liquid on your boat, wash your face gently, get the oil off that you've produced overnight and start FRESH.

Most night products are designed to resurface and regenerate the skin. If they are working - and let's hope for all our sakes they are, you need to give your skin a cleanse to remove the residue, dead skin etc.

As Monica* said: THAT'S JUST GOOD SENSE.

*token Friends Comment.

Beauty Myths No. 2 - Skin Purging.

Your skin does not 'purge'.

If you start using a new product and suddenly have a face full of spots/redness/swelling - that product (or machine) is not for you.

There may be a risk of slight exacerbation of spots if you are acnaic and suddenly use a product high in salicylic acid for example, but that should not last for weeks on end.

I often hear things being sold saying 'this may make your skin purge for a while, but then it will be GREAT!'.

The reality is probably closer to 'this may give you a face full of spots, either because the ingredients are comedogenic, or your skin does not like some of the ingredients'.

The odd whitehead, i.e. proper traditional spot - appearing after using a new product is no big deal.

An angry red face with a mixture of swollen-won't-come-to-a-head spots, cysts, whiteheads and blackheads is not purging. It's your skin begging you to stop whatever it is you are doing. Listen to it.

Personally, even if my skin was bubbling under the surface like a dormant volcano, I'd rather treat it gently, use good facial plant based oils, massage it well and let it works it way through it. I don't want to use something that makes it erupt.

Hey ho. That's just moi.

Beauty Myths No.1 - Your skin sleeps during the day.

Dear Readers. 

My day started with an email from someone requesting that I test their (revolutionary - obviously) cream at night - 'because the skin sleeps during the day'.

After my head exploded and I put it back together again, I decided on a lovely new series for the blog. 

'Beauty Myths' is born out of utter frustration with the casual jargon that mentioned often enough, becomes Bible. 

No. Your skin does not, will not and has never 'slept' during the day. The other argument for using differing products in the evening is that your skin 'may' relax a little whilst its not busy fighting off free radicals.

Funnily enough, free radicals are also not particularly conscious of time and are in fact, around us 24/7 - but that's apparently by the by for some marketing people. If you wanted to really annoy someone you could argue that as soon as you breathe out carbon dioxide, your face is surrounded in a cloud of free-radicals - but that's also apparently by the by.

You use different products at night because you don't need SPF - or thicker 'protecting' moisturisers - which means you can use lighter, more effective formulations - serums/oils etc - to target and treat your issues.

AM: Protect

PM: Treat

Your skin is your biggest organ. Replace the word 'skin' in this sentence with Heart, Brain, Lungs, Kidney, Liver and see how long you would be alive for.

'Your skin sleeps during the day'.

Right, well that's me dead then.

*head explodes, cannot even*