Zelens Z Luminous Brightening Serum

What is it?
'This advanced serum visibly brightens, smoothes and hydrates the skin.'

Who is it for?
'Someone who wants to diminish the appearance of dark spots and discolouration, even skin tone and enhance radiance, while refining skin texture.'

What’s in it?

Aqua (Water), Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Phytic Acid, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Zinc Glycinate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Hydrolyzed Pearl, Silanetriol, Silica, Polysilicone-11, Benzophenone-3, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Metabisulfite, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum (Fragrance), Linalool, Sodium Hydroxide

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?
fragrance

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?
Man-made/vegan

Tested on animals/sold in China?

No/No

What's not in it?

mineral oil

parabens

PEGs

sulfates

How do you use it?
Apply after toning am and pm before moisturiser. I personally prefer to use in the mornings. *GLOW*

What’s good about it?
I'm a tad in love with this serum. I have a little pigmentation from old sun damage that occasionally tries to peep through when I've been outside. This helps to disguise that, but the best part is the glow it gives. It makes your face look as if unicorns are hidden just under the surface of your skin and are trying to shoot glitter through your pores.
All unicorns and foolishness aside, it contains niacinamide (a lot of) to reduce pigmentation, even skin tone and strengthen the skin by increasing the fatty content of the epidermis which helps it to retain moisture.
Resorcinol to decrease melanin content of the skin and brighten. Zinc-Glycine complex and phytic acid to soothe inflammation, reduce melanin production and mildly exfoliate.
In essence, it's loaded with genuine active ingredients. Marko Lens does not mess around when it comes to his products. Unlike 95% of brand names, he writes his own formulas. These products have not been taken off a shelf in a lab and just had a 'Zelens' label put on them. Everything in here is in here for a reason - and it shows.

What’s not so good about it?
It's £135.00. A no-go if you are on a tight budget, but I would seriously consider checking this out if you are older and have pigmentation or dull skin. I noticed a difference immediately. Please bear in mind I am talking about pigmentation, not melasma or old scarring. That's as different kettle of fish, more of which you can read about here: carolinehirons.com/melasma

Similar products? (These are only designed to work in a similar way, I'm not suggesting they are as good as the main product being reviewed.)
Chantecaille Vital Essence with Arbutin
OSKIA Get Up and Glow
Dennis Gross MD Hydra-Pure Vitamin C Brightening Serum
Tata Harper Rejuvenating Serum
Caudalie Vinoperfect Radiance Serum

Exchange rate – does it punish the UK?
No. The UK is Zelens' base country. *Score!*

Zelens Z Luminous Brightening Serum is £135.00 and available from www.zelens.com 

Tomorrow:  Zelens Intense Defense Antioxidant Serum

Kate Somerville Mega-C Dual Radiance Serum

What is it?

'A supercharged face serum for a double dose of radiance. This revolutionary, high-tech radiance serum is packed with 10 percent vitamin C and youth-enhancing bioactive omegas 3, 6, 9, and 7. This two-phase system is divided in the dual-chamber to preserve purity and potency of ingredients until released. It improves the appearance of dark spots and discoloration, evens out skintone, and brightens the complexion to promote an all-around healthy radiance and glow. Recommended for nightly use, it replenishes skin’s natural lipids and restores the barrier function to soften skin texture and improve moisture retention.'

Who is it for?

Anyone concerned with a lack of radiance, dullness, uneven skin tone and mild pigmentation.  

What’s in it?

Omega formula: Water, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Fragrance (Parfum), HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Phenoxyethanol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Calcium Pantothenate, Niacinamide, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Pyridoxine HCl, Silica, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Starch Octenyl Succinate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocotrienols, Adenosine, Sea Whip Extract, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide

Vitamin C Formula: Isododecane, Ascorbic Acid, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Polysilicone-11 

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?

Fragrance

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?

Man made

Tested on animals/sold in China?

No/No

What's not in it?

mineral oil

parabens

phthalates 

How do you use it?

Apply to freshly cleansed and toned skin in the evening before moisturiser. You dispense one pump from each of the two chambers into the palm of your hand, swipe across with your other palm and apply.

What’s good about it?
Immediate gratification ahoy. This works, both on a superficial level and throughout the day.
Some vitamin C products can be drying or cause too much redness on the skin. This doesn't do that for me. The vitamin c level is 10% and it is dispensed separately from the Omega section which is sea buckthorn oil pulp, an oil heavy in omega 3, 6, 9 and 7. The omega section also contains vitamin e, which helps reactivate vitamin c, essentially super-powering it if you will, whilst providing antioxidant, soothing and moisturising side-effects. They work very well together, one stimulating and active, one soothing and protective.
Skin remains healthy looking with a great glow for the day.

What’s not so good about it?

I personally found this to have a bit of a kick so if you have sensitive skin I would definitely try first. (If you can)
It doesn't make me red at all, but I definitely feel it when I apply it.

Where to use in your routine?

As serum, after toning, before moisturiser.

Similar products?

Dennis Gross MD Hydra-Pure Vitamin C Brightening Serum

SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF Gel

Elemis Advanced Brightening Even Skin Tone Serum

Exchange rate – does it punish the UK?
Kind of, because you have to order in $. Between customs and shipping you end up paying dollar for pound. (approx!) Better value than a lot of serums available in the UK market regardless.

Kate Somerville Mega-C Dual Radiance Serum is $90.00 and available on www.katesomerville.com

Serums update!

I started the day with the intention of answering all of your questions on the serum clinic and writing more serum reviews. Before I did that I wanted to make sure that I had all of the options at the front of my mind and so I decided to sort through my collection and then break them down by purpose/claim to be a little more targeted with both your answers, and the reviews, but that took forever so...

Hydrating

Brightening and/or Pigmentation

With the best will in the world, I don't think I could review all of them in a month. These pictures show approximately half of them. Not shown are high-end, budget, retinols/overnight treatment serums, the doctors, the Somerville, anti-wrinkle etc etc

Brightening/Glow

Still, at least things are a little more under control now.

Brightening/Radiance/Smoothing (you see my problem) :)

Soothing

Reviews will be coming and will probably extend further than May. If you see something you are particularly interested in, do leave me a note in the comments.
And the answers to the Clinic WILL be prioritised tomorrow. Thanks for your patience.



*Also - just as an aside. I have this amount of product because it's my job and has been for nearly 20 years, I'm not insane.

Clinic - Serums

Whilst we're mid-month of Serums focus I thought it would be good to do a quick Q&A/Clinic on the topic so that further reviews during the month may prove to be more helpful.

As always, I will try and answer around 25 questions - although it's usually a few more once the dust settles.

So if there is anything you want to ask/need to know/have always wondered about serums, just leave a comment below.

Please note I will not be answering the questions until tomorrow as I am away from my desk all day - and as always I will only publish the questions I am answering otherwise due to the sheer volume, it becomes an impossible read.

Thank you everyone!

Dr Dennis Gross Clinical Concentrate Radiance Booster

What is it?
'A professional-strength time-released concentrate that can be mixed into your favorite products to enhance their benefits, or used alone to visibly optimize skin’s healthy appearance for a refreshed, youthful, radiant complexion.'

Who is it for?
Anyone lacking radiance, vitality and my obsession - 'glow'.

But who can actually use it?
Everyone bar extremely sensitive. But even then I would buy it and avoid cheeks etc...that's me though. You do you. I have no pain threshold anywhere on my body except my face. Bring. It. On.

What’s in it?

Yucca Glauca Root Extract, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyacrylamide, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Centella Asiatica Extract, Quercetin Caprylate, Pyruvic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Linoleic Acid, Bisabolol, Resveratrol, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract, Retinol, Salicylic Acid, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ellagic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceramide 2, Symphytum Officinale Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Saccharide Isomerate, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ferulic Acid, Gallic Acid, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Commiphora Myrrha Oil, Copper PCA, Sodium PCA, Mandelic Acid, Tetrapeptide-21, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Glyceryl Oleate, Acrylates/Carbamate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Zinc PCA, Urea, Laureth-7, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, Phytic Acid, Octoxynol-9, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance.

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?

Fragrance, albeit a teeny amount.

Acids. But then that's kind of the point....

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?

Vegan. 

Tested on animals/sold in China?

Cruelty-free.

What's not in it?

Parabens

Sulfates 

Phthalates 

How do you use it?

Apply daily in serum stage - am or pm. I prefer to use it in the morning - I don't particularly need a 'healthy glow' in the evenings, although it would obviously work to help resurface etc overnight. I would definitely travel with it as a multi-purpose serum if I had to pack light. But let's face it, I'm more likely to pack a ton of skincare and no shoes.

What’s good about it?

This is a typical US formulation, in that it contains a bit of everything. Think of a massive buffet of skincare ingredients laid out before you. The French are picky, take 2 or 3 main ingredients and then use those throughout their range in different strengths depending on the products. The Far East usually focus on one key ingredient - take SKII as a case in point, and then build an entire range around it. The American formulators, however, in a lot of cases, fill the plate with everything. It's much more of a 'throw everything at the wall and something will stick' mentality. That's not a bad thing, like the other regions, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

In this case, a lot of ingredients give you a product that does a little of everything and works quickly. Most acids, including pyruvic to help with hyperpigmentation, tartaric - AHA, glycolic to exfoliate and linoleic to help cell reproduction and turnover, retinol - obvs and peptides just to be getting on with. 

What’s not so good about it?

I would normally be concerned about overkill and maybe the danger of the ingredients cancelling each other out, but based on my usage so far and that like all forms of potato, I have yet to meet a Dr Gross product that I didn't like, I am completely giving this the benefit of the doubt.

Similar products?

Rose Radiance Skin Serum - Aromatherapy Associates (nowhere near as acid-laden though)

Vinoperfect Radiance Serum - Caudalie

Advanced Active Radiance Serum - Murad

Good Genes - Sunday Riley

Revitalise and Glow Serum - Aurelia

Get Up and Glow - OSKIA

Exchange rate – does it punish the UK?

Not yet no. Because I haven't found it here yet!

Dennis Gross MD Clinical Concentrate Radiance Booster is $68.00 from Sephora and available here: www.sephora.com

New Monthly Focus - and Zelens Z Luminous and Intense Defence

When I spoke at the Harvey Nichols Beautiful Mind event a few weeks ago - one of the audience members asked the panel what brand we would pick if we could only use one for the rest of our lives. Needless to say, none of us could give a straight answer - we all had 2 or 3 options for each category. I said: 'Zelens for serums. No competition.'

These new additions will only reinforce that decision. Z Luminous and Intense Defence are not available yet, but I wanted to give a special heads-up to Z Luminous, which, from first application, was mind-blowing. It brightens, softens and gives amazing glow - something which is, as per usual, top of my list of requirements. :)

What is it?

'A new lightening and brightening cosmeceutical serum.'

Who is it for?

Anyone concerned with visible signs of pigmentation damage and people concerned with dull skin that lacks luminosity.

What’s in it?

Full inci list coming 

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?

Man-made in the best frigging way possible

Tested on animals/sold in China?

No./No.

What's not in it?

Mineral oil - this much I can guarantee.

This is all a little bit of a tease for what is to come on the blog during May. My focus will be serums - all types, all prices, all strengths.

I will still be doing my normal reviews and Cheat Sheets - but am trying to focus on as many reviews as possible for serums - some new, some oldies but goodies.

I have literally spent all day today sorting out my stash *SPOILER KLAXON* because there is nothing like an impending visit from Sali Hughes and her 'In The Bathroom' crew to make you try and get organised. 

How gorgeous is Hughes?

I am therefore spending tomorrow photographing said stash for upcoming reviews, including approximately 60 serums.

Sweet Lord in Heaven. Let's do this.