Cheat Sheets are back ---->

Blogger has had a few glitches lately, and it completely removed the Cheat Sheet tab over there on the right hand side ---->
Thank you to those of you that were asking me where they had gone - I hadn't even noticed! Rude blog site.

I think there may be others that aren't tagged as this site has such a huge back catalogue of content that I am constantly going back and adjusting/updating/tagging posts. It seems a never-ending process, but a strangely enjoyable one. I don't change older posts, I update them with a new one if necessary, and this is all part of a bigger process to move this to a bigger website.

While that is happening behind the scenes please do feel free to flag up any mistakes/things you feel need updating. This is a live, breathing blog and I am grateful for your input.

Thanks Chaps!

Fannies, Flights and Festivals – Festival Skincare - Cheat Sheet

Some of these people belong to me. You're welcome world.

I suppose there’s not much point in having a saying if you never use it or address it. ☺

Festivals. God knows what possesses you, but thousands of you will insist on sleeping in a tent in the pouring rain, drinking yourselves into oblivion and having at best, questionable hygiene habits for the duration. This, we call ‘entertainment’.  Personally, I prefer a day ticket, AAA pass and a nice hotel with hot showers but that’s me.

So you’re packed and ready for Glastonbury/Reading (see you there)/Leeds/V Festival etc – what’s in your skincare stash?

If you’re the type of person that keeps their wits about them, you can do most of your normal routine. If, however, you know you’re going to party non-stop for 3/4/5 days, I would just take wipes and SPF and deal with the carnage when you get home. At least you’ll have a great time and won’t add sunburn into the mix.

*This is a long post, like the queue for the toilets at an festival. A full list of products is available at the bottom of the post.

Wipes.
If you’re going to use a wipe, now is the time. Bear in mind, like good tea and 80s rock bands, all wipes are not created equal.
Here’s some I don’t hate.

Ole are the ones I reach for first. They work (as best wipes can) and cause me no irritation. The purple also work on waterproof, but I would go in with a micellar water/dedicated EMU remover for that.

Clinique TTDO 'cleansing towelettes' are the latest addition to the TTDO franchise and they also work. Obviously I prefer the balm, but no-one wants to be trying to remove that outside of a lovely bathroom with flowing hot water.

MAC wipes work. Good for makeup removal. 

I would always pick up these Sensibio wipes in Paris before they were available here. Great for emergencies, hands and festivals... 

The Yes To range have a large selection of wipes available. I haven't used them but they proved very popular on twitter when I put the question to everyone.

All of these are good at getting a lot of crap off of your face, but if you’re wearing a face full of makeup and SPF you’ll have to use quite a few to do so.

However: if you can, I’d go with a micellar water/eye makeup remover and cotton wool pads. They just do the job better.

The Body Shop's Camomile Eye Makeup Removers are brilliant. I use this one all over the face like a micellar water.

They've changed the packaging (I prefer the old to be honest) but the juice is the same. This, on large cotton pads, is how I would do an overnight stay at a festival (assuming I was under threat of death and had no water - obvs). There's a waterproof version also.

Bioderma was made for this situation. Like The Body Shop, quick, easy and works.

Clarins One-Step Facial Cleanser is great. It also smells delicious which, let's face it, is an added bonus given the surroundings at festivals. 

I also love a good traditional milk cleanser in this situation. One that can either be washed off in the shower (literally going against my religion here I know) or removed with cotton pads. Clarins again would be my first port of call.

But still, if you’re boozing, stick to wipes.

Acid: here’s the thing. I would probably not bother with acid during the day at a festival. You’re going to be outside all day, sitting in the sun (although if you’re in the sun, you’re probably not in the UK), you may be drunk tipsy and forget to apply your SPF… is it worth it?
For the sake of three days you could give it a miss. If, however, you’re going for longer and want to use acids almost to ‘back-up’ your wipes, use them in the evening and make sure you have your SPF for the next day.
Ready-soaked pads are an obvious choice here.

First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads are great and Dennis Gross MD are pre-packed for you.

Failing that, pre-soak your own cotton pads in your chosen acid toner and put them in a ziplock lunch bag. It's what I use to do on flights before they made pre-soaked pads...

If you have time, can be bothered and know you will use it, I would take some Serozinc with you. It may help keep your skin hydrated, can be used to help remove wipe residue and is antibacterial. It also comes in a travel size. Well handy.

Serum. There’s really only one choice for festival serum and that’s hyaluronic acid. You need it. Whether you’re boozing or not, the weather, sun or wind or rain, will all take its toll on your hydration levels, so the easiest way to keep it topped up is with a dose of hyaluronic acid. This is not the time for your expensive anti-ageing serums. Save your money. My first choice would be Hydraluron, purely for the ease of use and plastic tube. There are brilliant hyaluronic acid products out there, but a lot of them are in fiddly packaging or glass, not what you want in a tent, or god forbid, a shared cubicle shower monstrosity. *shudders*

Moisturisers. For ease, use one with SPF included (this post will bring me out in hives at this rate). For safety, I’d personally use a good hydrating moisturiser and a bloody high SPF on top.
If you can take your normal moisturiser and it’s not in any heavy/glass packaging, do. If you need something new just for the festival period look at Nuxe, Caudalie, REN and Pixi. All make great moisturisers in tubes, which is what you want.

At a push I'd trump for Pixi's H2O Skin Drink. The product and the packaging is the perfect festival pick.

SPF – Anthelios is hard to beat on value and performance. Get SPF 50, don’t faff about with a 15. Pointless in this scenario. I'd go Ultra Light Fluid untinted. Easier to remove than a thicker cream, great coverage.

Where to do it all in a routine?:
Assuming you’re doing the festival in a fairly controlled manner and get up and go to the showers at a decent hour in the morning:
Cleanse with your micellar water or milk cleanser and flannel if you can (please).  Make sure your skin is as clean as you can get it; apply your hyaluronic acid and your moisturiser, then your SPF.
I know for a lot of you this will be your only cleanse of the day that goes anywhere near water. If in the evenings, you get back to your tent half-cut, and manage to wipe your face down a few times and apply a moisturiser on top, well done. If you can, use your wipes/micellar water, then acid, then serum, then moisturiser. Just do your best. You can fix the damage when you get home.

Have fun ya filthy animals.


Products mentioned:

Ole Henriksen Wipes

Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Towelettes

MAC Wipes

Bioderma Wipes

Yes To Wipes

The Body Shop Camomile Eye Makeup Remover 

Bioderma Sensibio

Serozinc

Clarins One-Step Facial Cleanser

First Aid Beauty Radiance Pads

Dennis Gross Pads (varying strengths)

Clarins Cleansing Milks

Hydraluron

Pixi H2O SkinDrink

La Roche Posay Anthelios






*Not a sponsored post in any way. Some links are affiliate links, which help to support this blog. If you are happy to use my links, thank you kindly. If not, simply google the brands in a new page. It's all good.

Cheat Sheet - Top 5 Things American Girls are doing wrong in Skincare

First things first:

• Yes, this is a sweeping generalisation, based on my time in LA last week. Please don't be offended if you reside in the USA and it bears no resemblance whatsoever to your routine. That's excellent.
• No, of course I don't think everyone in the USA treats their skin like this, but a lot of you do. Especially a lot of the 'Under 25' Ladies in the LA region last week.
• And finally, if you are not new here, there is nothing new for you today. You've heard all of this before. Move along, make yourself tea, come back tomorrow. ;)

So I just returned from L.A., the land of the lovely people, where I was at the Gen Beauty event with Pixi.
I did two Meet'n'Greets across the weekend while I was there, along with a Q&A, where a lot of the same issues/questions came up. After I heard the word 'scrub' for the 50th time, I made a mental note to do this post.

1. Scrubs. Oh Lord the scrubs. You like a scrub. You LOVE a scrub. And the rougher the better. Too harsh. Way too harsh. Also: a number of you enjoy removing your makeup with scrubs. Yes really. Please stop. The 'scratch' is not good. And I quote:

'I really love it when I can feel my face burn afterwards.'

2. You keep all your products in your bathrooms. It's too hot in there. Especially in California. Please keep everything outside of your cleansing products in your bedroom if you can.

3. Foaming. I'm not saying you like a bit of foam, but the same products kept getting mentioned, to the point where I was literally itching my face.

L.A. - AFTER CLEANSING TIME.

4. Showers. You love doing all these scrubs and foaming things in your showers. I love a good shower. Who doesn't? I just don't cleanse my face in it. Do it afterwards, at the sink, with a washcloth/flannel, the way Jesus intended.

5. You like a 'minimal routine'. I had a queue (both days) of 100 women at a time asking me to help them with their skin, then pulling a face at the mere suggestion that using more than a scrub and a moisturiser might possibly help. You don't have to get on board with a seven step routine, but good skin takes more than a scrub, an oil-free moisturiser and a prayer.

Now please read this and meet me afterwards for a cup of tea to discuss: 

Routines Cheat Sheet

Cheat Sheet - How to POP a spot

As much as any dermatologist will tell you not to pop, the fact is that you do. We do. You know you do, I know you do, the industry at large knows that you do, but they pretend that you don't. I know there are some of you that do manage to restrain yourselves, but you're in the minority and up there with those people that don't lick their lips when eating a donut or chew when eating a fruit pastille.
You exist, but the rest of us don't know how you manage it.

I'm a popper. Always have been, nothing more satisfying to be honest. And although some of you do seem to show great restraint, I know most of you pop because you tell me so - usually with a faint look of 'Don't shout at me' eyes.
As if! If it's the right time, I always pop. With that in mind, I offer you my way to pop. All risk is your own.

But before we go any further, for the sake of being professional, balanced and fair, here is my lovely friend Dr Sam Bunting telling you why you should not pop:

'Of course the correct answer is never pick a spot in the first place-treat them with an anti-inflammatory acne preparation containing salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide (no need to go higher than 2.5-5%); allow it to dry and then cover with concealer. Then – and this is key – divert attention away from the trouble zone. So if the spot is on the chin, work a mesmerising smoky eye. If it's on the forehead, rock a red lip. Remember to assess your face from what I call conversation distance – a good 1m away from the mirror (absolutely NO magnifying mirrors); remember no one every inspects you as closely as you’d like to think.
If you have been tempted to pick and its red and raw, it’s important to interfere as little as possible, to reduce the risk of pigmentation and scarring. This is especially true if the spot had not come to a white head and formed a pustule. Until the erosion has healed over, it will be almost impossible to get make-up to adhere and it may well cause secondary infection.  Wipe with a gentle antiseptic like witch hazel and apply light pressure for a minute. Then apply an anti-inflammatory acne preparation that will form a film over the area and leave it be. Don’t apply make-up until the skin has healed properly.'

That's the Dr. I love her. But I still pop.

Please bear in mind: Popping is not picking. They are two very different things.

How so?

Popping - 'Ooh I see a whitehead! Where did that come from? I think I can get that out. Let me have a go. Yep. Excellent.' *carries on with routine*

Picking - 'Ow. That red lump on my chin is KILLING ME. I must be due on. Bloody hormones. I'm going to get it out. *attempts to pop red lump for ages*
'OWWW. Ugh. I'll try again later. Ooh there's another one! Maybe that one will come out. *prods second bump until it bleeds*
'OOWWWW. Ugh. No joy. Why does my skin hate me?'
*plays with it all day with dirty fingers, doesn't leave it alone*

If you fall into the latter category you're making the simple mistake of opening the oven door before the cake has risen. A little patience changes the outcome.

A few simple guidelines will give the best result (although do bear in mind that every skin is different) and they will probably go against everything you've read from brands trying to sell you products. Nothing new there so let's crack on.

What you will need:
'Clean' everything. Clean hands. Clean skin. Clean flannel. Clean tissue. Acids. Cotton wool or on a ready made pad. A good quality (non-mineral oil) facial oil.

• Slipping it into your routine is the easiest way. AM or PM. Not lunchtime in the loo at work.
• Cleanse. With a flannel. If the flannel doesn't knock the head off the spot that's your first sign that it may not be ready. If it's sore, it's probably not ready. I steer clear of sore spots. They're still working their way up the dermis food chain and causing inflammation along the way.
• If you can see white, it's not sore or too tender and everything is clean, take a tissue, rip it in half and wrap it around the forefinger of each hand.
• Finger placement is also crucial. 
• One of the biggest mistakes made when popping is to go straight in from RIGHTNEXTTOTHESPOT. You put your two fingers on the spot and you just push your fingers together, so that you're so close, you literally just get a little teeny whitehead, then everything almost gets pushed back down into the spot. Not good.
• Do NOT use your nails. Pads of fingertips only.
• Put your fingers either side of the spot, to the best you can, depending on where it is, obviously. You should be able to SEE the spot. Gently push downwards and then at a 90 degree angle towards the bottom the spot, start to push upwards. If it's ready, it will come up and out. Gently repeat. When the white stops, and it's spouting pink, STOP. STOP. STOP. STOP.
• If you see blood (it's already too late but..), STOP. 

You're in scarring territory. Show restraint.

• Now you need to move quickly. Take your pre-soaked acid toner cotton pad, or ready and waiting acid pad and apply it firmly to the spot, using a similar pressure as when you've ripped off a plaster or a wax strip. Hard pressure. Hold it down for a few seconds. Turn it over and repeat. There should be no bleeding. If there is, keep the acid on it until it stops. I have been known to walk around making a cup of tea holding a pad soaked with acid on to an overly pronged spot waiting for it to calm itself. The bigger the spot, the longer you hold acid on it.
• Note: this may sting like a MOFO. Stinging is good. I know I say it all the time but stinging is good. The acid will be helping to kill the bacteria, aiding a quicker healing time and making sure the skin is prepped ready for the oil. You'll have a 'Kevin at the sink in Home Alone' moment. Embrace it.
• Yes, oil. I don't use drying out products. You dry out the spot, you also dry out the area surrounding the spot causing a ton of inflammation and dehydration and frankly, making a prime breeding ground for bacteria and scarring. A Juicy Lucy skin is harder to scar. A dried-out, shrivelled up area will scar easily. Simples.
• Take your acid pad off, and put your chosen oil on the area.
• Massage it firmly in. You can't be mamby-pamby at this stage. Be firm. Good strong pressure massaging all around the spot and over the spot.
• Depending on the rest of your day/evening, finish your routine, but I try and do this either on mornings that I'm not wearing makeup and am working from home, or in the evenings at teatime.
• It's best to do it when you're at home with a little time afterwards as you're going to repeat the oil application as soon as it has all absorbed...
  Apply, wait, absorb, apply, wait, absorb. Repeat at least three times if you can. 
• Throughout the day or the next morning you will find that the spot erupts a little goo, like a mini-volcano. Wipe away with acid and reapply the oil. This sounds time-consuming but I promise we're talking seconds, not hours. And it's worth it if it speeds up the spot healing process and helps prevent scarring.
• IF you have a ready spot but you have to go to work, do everything as above, apply your moisturiser over the area, don't avoid it - and then proceed with your makeup. Powder is your friend. Once you get home, cleanse immediately and do it all again. You may find the rest of the spot just throws itself at you willingly, or that it has calmed significantly to be almost invisible. Just DON'T be tempted to start on it like you're climbing Everest with a pickaxe. 

The reason I do oil and not drying products is because in my experience, drying out doesn't always work and causes more damage. Using oil does one of two things: it either swells up the spot and forces the 'head' of the spot to show up the next morning, or it settles it down and almost disperses the remnants. 

Sidebar: you can of course, use extraction tools, but you can't use them where you can't see the spot - and you need to know how much pressure is too much. If popping is your thing and you haven't already discovered her, watch Dr Sandra Lee aka Dr Pimple Popper. Be warned: you may gag.

More info on products/people mentioned here:

Acids

Extraction tools

Dr Sam Bunting

Dr Pimple Popper

Cheat Sheet - How to use a retinol/vitamin A product

My most frequently-asked-questions recently have all been about retinol. I'm still planning my retinol cheat sheet but in the meantime, I thought I would answer the most popular question, both on social media and in the comments section on here, so that I only have to so it once. 

How do I use retinols?

Brands will all give you instructions on the packaging, and whilst there will always be exceptions, the key things to remember are:

• Retinols go onto the skin after cleansing and toning
• You can use other products, but they go on afterwards
• If you have sensitive skin it is worth applying onto dry skin as it slows the absorption rate and, therefore, reduces the risk of inflammation 
• Don't apply a lot thinking it will work faster. It won't. Save your money. And your skin. Apply a small pea-sized amount, or in the case of an oil, a few drops, not an entire pipette. 
• Don't overdo it. The results can be very alarming - in a good way - almost overnight. Don't be tempted to think more is more. It isn't. In the case of retinols, and especially if you have not used them before, less is more. Every 3rd night, moving to every 2nd night. Unless a brand specifically says differently.

I have been using retinols a long time. If I know I'm using a vitamin A product in the evening, I cleanse, acid tone, spritz, then use my retinoid. I usually follow it with a soothing moisturiser. I love them. They are easily the best products for fighting signs of ageing. Everyone should use one. They are worth the faff. Just use them correctly.

Cheat Sheet - Why I don't like 'battery operated cleansing brushes'

Well if ever there was a gentle way of saying the word that you're all saying in your head now, that was my attempt. Assuming we all know the type of thing I'm talking about, I'll carry on.

I have recently been asked a lot more frequently about said cleansing brushes, usually by newcomers to this site who may have missed previous posts and/or comments.

Why don't I like them?

• Because your skin is delicate, it does not need a sandblaster to cleanse it, you have two hands, use them.
  (As I've said previously, if you are not fully able-bodied, obviously do whatever you have to do - ignore this.)
• Because they are capable of basically destroying your acid mantle.
  That skin 'purging'? It's not purging, it's inflamed. It's shouting at you, begging you to stop whatever it is you're doing to it. Stop it. If you were using a moisturiser that broke your face out into acne you'd be horrified, utterly horrified. And you would, in all likelihood, stop using it immediately. And return it. Especially if that cream cost you upwards of £150. But don't worry! In the case of 'purging', they have a brilliant idea! Buy another head! You must just need something a bit more delicate. Note how they've made it your fault. Your problem. And the solution? Spend more money. It's genius if you think about it. 
• Acne. The fact that these are aimed at people with acne is enough to make me scream blue murder. 'Hey you know what's great for acne? Using a power brush to really make sure the skin is as sore as possible! Brilliant! Let's do that.'
  No. Please do not.
• Lack of training when the item is sold. You can buy the most famous version of this online. Just get it delivered to you with no human contact from a trained pro advising you how to use it. Which leads to..
• People using them incorrectly. This is without doubt the 'tool' that is used incorrectly by the majority of people that discuss it with me. 
• The dirty head. How many of you wash the brush head properly? Don't tell me 'it dries out and therefore the bacteria dies'. Imagine using the same flannel for 2 weeks and never washing it. You can by all means let it 'dry out' between uses if that image makes you feel better, but imagine it. Filth.
• The cleansers that the original version of these are sold with are 100% horrific. Horrific. I cannot stress enough how much these should be avoided. I promise you the thought behind this was 'How can we make more money?' Oh, I know! Let's make our own product! We'll say that they're the only thing people should use with them. OMG that's genius!'.
  This was not a decision made for the benefit of your skin. I promise you. A foaming, SLS-laden soap, with a rotating (oscillating - whatever) power-blaster?? In some cases with grit? REALLY? It's like they sat together around a table and said 'What could we possibly make that could irritate the skin more than say, oh I don't know, a Brillo pad and Fairy liquid?'.

Why are they so popular?

Numerous reasons:

• Because of the timer system, in some cases it will be the first time that some people have thoroughly cleansed their face. If you massaged your skin with your hands for a full minute and removed a cleansing balm with a flannel after years of splashing off regular milks/gels your skin would feel the same way.
• If you've never used flannels and acid toners these brushes will without doubt exfoliate your skin. The first time you use it you will feel like your skin can 'breathe' properly. That's nothing you can't get with product and hands and without sanding your face.
• Marketing. AKA Keeping Up With the Jones'. Your mate has one, it's all over the press, you WANT it. Oh LOOK A PINK ONE! *man voice* OH LOOK! A black one!
• And why is is all over the press? Because they make money. BIG BIG BIG money for the companies that sell them. Not just the brands, the retailers. If you go into a store and someone tries to sell you this, I promise you they are trying to make their target for the day. They may not have even asked you what skin type you have before they've said 'Oh you know what YOU need?!'

BUT: you don't have to listen to me, I know some of you swear by them. Good for you. As I always say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. And don't stop something you love using on my accord.
If however, you have one sitting in your cupboard that you shelved because it didn't agree with your skin, dig it out. Use it on your feet. Or your bum. Lovely.

Personally, I think in years to come we will see an increase in broken capillaries, stubborn 'bumps' that don't come to a head and rosacea and I don't think they will be unrelated to the use of these 'brushes'. On that note, if you do suffer from eczema, acne or rosacea, for the love of ALL THAT IS SANITY you have no business blasting your face to kingdom come with these things. No matter what any sales person says.







Addition: in the name of full disclosure, I have held giveaways on the blog for similar 'cleansing brushes' in the past. This was over 3 years ago, well before they became the money-making-trend/craze that they are now. I've deleted those posts and it won't happen again. Sorry all.

Cheat Sheet - When to do your routine when you're exercising

I am frequently asked by readers that exercise in all manner of ways for the best time to add their skincare routines. As there are SO many variations, I thought I'd keep this one 'live' if you will, and add to it as you leave more requests in the comments, so please do feel free to add your questions/exercise/time of day that you do the exercise/activity and I'll respond and add them to this post on a continuous basis..

So to start with the 'skeleton' or bare bones....

Jogging/runners

Early morning run:

Cold climate (English winter for example) - apply a little facial oil to protect your face before you pound the streets, go run, come home, do routine.

Hot climate - apply SPF before you hit the streets, go run, come home, do routine.

After work run:

Remove makeup, apply a thin layer of moisturiser (and/or SPF if outside and the sun is out), run, sweat, shower, do your evening routine.

Gym Sessions/Weights/Cardio

Early morning classes - get up, if you have dry skin apply a little moisturiser, go to the gym, sweat it out, then do your proper routine after your shower.
Lunchtime classes - go to the gym, remove your makeup, apply a minimal moisturiser (thin layer), do your class/workout, sweat like a racehorse, shower, do your routine.
After work classes - go to the gym, cleanse and apply a light moisturiser (thin layer), do your workout, sweat, shower, do your full bedtime routine - unless you're going out for dinner etc in which case do your skin routine, apply your makeup and remove it all before bed as per usual..

Swimming

It's not great to swim in makeup, no matter how rushed you are, equally, you don't want a ton of product running into your eyes and blinding you while you do your laps.

Early morning swim - get up, apply a thin layer of moisturiser (I avoid my forehead to avoid drip down effect into the eyes but do what you feel your skin needs), swim, shower, routine.

After work swim - remove makeup, thin layer of something protective - I prefer a little facial oil but light moisturiser works, swim, shower, do actual routine.

Cycling

Any time of day, you want protection on a face that is being wind-bashed. Whether am or pm, cycle with no makeup, make sure you have applied protective moisturiser and/or SPF and do your routine after your post-cycle shower. I would consider applying facial oil to the cheeks if you won't end up covered in bug roadkill :)

Yoga (more specifically - Bikram)

Being frank, Bikram is not good for your face. Argue all you want, but the entire purpose of it is to make you sweat  - however, unlike other sports you can't cool down because you're in a room where the temperature is maintained at 'scorching'. That healthy 'glow' will eventually be broken capillaries. Having said that, I know some of you are completely addicted to it so your main concern is to keep the nose/cheek area under control. Spritz as soon as you can with a floral water - not normal water - shower, and apply a hydrating serum AND moisturiser. You will be dehydrated afterwards, so if you regularly attend Bikram classes I would keep spritzing bottles handy and keep an eye on your face for signs of dehydration like fine lines and cakey makeup...

In short, if in doubt:

• Remove your makeup before you exercise. Yes you can use micellar waters if you have to but you would be much better served using a good oil cleanser - it's more gentle and nourishing and kinder all round - especially if you exercise every day/4 or 5 times a week.
• Try and exercise with a light moisturiser on your face
• If you are going to use saunas and steam rooms try and have some facial oils on your face - heat and oils are lovely - not mineral oil though - plant oils. (A paraffin wax mask is lovely - but that's because it is done by a pro with a good plant oil underneath....however that's for another post)
• Protect the cheeks - those are the areas most prone to visible signs of damage from sport - oils and moisturisers and SPF where appropriate. Keep them protected.

Cheat Sheet - Things I say over and over again in the Clinic - OR - things the Clinic has brought up - OR - A Friday rant.

1. You are obsessed with your pores. They do not open and close like doors. You say they are HUGE - then send me a picture and I can SEE NOTHING.
   We CANNOT see your pores. The only person that can see your pores close-up is your opthamologist - or your boyfriend. Your opthamologist is looking at your eyes. Not your pores. And if your boyfriend is thisclosetoyou and notices your pores? He's gay. Or not attracted to you. Or at best, rude. Rethink the entire relationship.
   
2. You overuse the Clarisonic. A lot of you. A LOT of you. You can use it - you're just not meant to use it every time you brush your frigging teeth.
   Step away from the trendy facial tool and wash your bloody face properly.
   
3. Nothing good ever came from scrubbing your face with a peach kernel. There's a reason they are 99p. Step away.
   
4. In general, foaming is what you want Fairy Liquid to do. Not your cleanser. And to the brands: please stop regurgitating the same formulas and recommending them to the same skins. Foaming is NOT best for acne.
5. Freckles are cute. At any age. You will do damage to your skin trying to get rid of them. Leave them alone. Embrace them.
6. Stress is the key to most flare-ups, whether they are acne, rosacea or eczema. Practice relaxation. And not in some hippy-dippy way. Seriously. See the bigger picture. Chill.
7. Inflammation is the root of all evil. Eat less sugar, take more fish oil supplements. A lot of fish supplements.
8. Natural doesn't mean you won't react. Essential oils can also be a trigger for some skin.
9. 'Dupes' belong in makeup and nail varnish. There is no 'dupe' for a high quality, years-of-research-behind-it skincare product.
10. Spend your money on supplements, skincare, foundation and concealer and scrimp on the rest. You will look fabulous.
11. If you would spend more on shoes, handbags, lipstick, jeans or fashion in general than you would on high quality skincare - you will be a sixty year old woman (and man) with a vintage wardrobe and a face like an alligator.

Well this has been enjoyable. Same time next week?

Cheat Sheet - Top Tips for Great Skin

I've noticed doing the Clinic these last two months that I am repeating a lot of the same basic tips week after week. None of which I mind, that's the point of the Clinic - but it did get me thinking that it might be useful to do a quick cheat sheet about basic care and how to get the most out of your skin.
Interestingly, most of the tips are based around diet and lifestyle - not particular products - but I will do a follow up of good products too...

Obviously everyone is different - but in general - these are your basics if you're wondering where to start....

• Cleanse your skin every night without fail - cleanliness is next to Godliness. Double cleanse if you are wearing make-up or sunscreen - which means most of us. I've already written a cheat sheet on cleansing - read that if you haven't already - incorporate the massage techniques here - and you're pretty much done.
  And a little tip for those of you that say you have no time: either take your make-up off as soon as you get home OR take your make-up off before you take your bra off (if you sleep in your bra then do the first tip!)
• Cleanse your skin every morning. It obviously doesn't have to be as intense as the night time - but a quick hot flannel and milk/balm/gel wouldn't go amiss to get rid of the overnight shedding. *gross* I know some brands say you don't need to cleanse your skin in the morning. That's OK. They're wrong. If you're body doesn't sweat/shed why do we have to change the bedding? Yeah. That's what I thought.
• Do not smoke. I won't dwell on this one because its obvious and I've preached before. Unfortunately, in my experience the majority of smokers don't care. They'd rather smoke than have good health. That's really the beginning and end of it. Also - sidebar - they are more likely, again in my experience, to have Botox/fillers/use fad products - like BB creams for example. Why? Because they aren't willing to do the work themselves. Sorry smokers - but in your heart of hearts you probably know it's true. And if you're in the minority who smoke and do everything else organically, you still smoke.
• Get some sunshine. The term 'everything in moderation' really applies here. For normal day-to-day use, I get my SPF from my make-up. But then I work indoors all day and live in the northern hemisphere. I of course use SPF if I am sitting on a beach - but no higher than 30 if I'm honest. Otherwise I wouldn't reapply and I'd look like a beetroot. I don't use skincare with SPF. I apply it separately in between moisturiser and foundation/primer. SPF is too active an ingredient and can interfere with other anti-ageing ingredients, making all of your expensive moisturisers potentially redundant.
  The fact is that yes, obviously too much sun is damaging to the skin. But so is too much chlorine. And too much pollution. Get out there and get some sunshine. We need it. And in the right dosage it can be amazing for your skin. Some brands would have us believe the sun is the ultimate enemy. That's only true if you don't respect it. Get some sun. Not a lot, some. Just don't be stupid about it. Read my SPF Cheat Sheet.
• Sugar. You need to think of sugar as the Devil. And fizzy drinks/soda as Liquid Satan. Empty calories. Drink water. Sugar is the easiest addiction to stop - after a few days you won't even think about that mid-afternoon chocolate. Trust me. One of the best things you can do for your health and skin.
• Stop eating crap. It's not rocket science. If 'cooking' to you means 'piercing the film', you are not cooking - you are reheating. And eating processed food. Which has no benefit to your health or skin. I'm not going to tell you what foods to avoid. You're not a moron.
  A tip - if you're a parent and you won't let your toddler eat what you are eating - why are YOU eating it?
• Consider supplementing your diet. If you have problem skin and don't take fish oil, try it - in large doses. If you are vegetarian try flax - but in my experience its not nearly as powerful. I am big on supplements and have posted a frequently about them - most recently, here.
• Cut down on dairy. Dairy is designed to take that cute calf and turn it into a 1500lb cow/bull in under a year. And it does a bloody good job of it. I have skimmed milk in my tea. That's about it these days. Yes, I've even cut back the cheese. *skimmed milk has been proven to be the unhealthiest milk to drink - typical that it is the one that I like.
• Watch your alcohol intake. It's extremely dehydrating and again is predominantly sugar. If you are disciplined and can have the odd glass of good red wine, fine. If not, you may want to reconsider altogether - especially if your idea of a good drink is beer or a Bacardi Breezer.
• Use quality skincare. I'm not talking about £400 creams, I'm just suggesting you step away from the £2.99 packet of wipes and moisturisers in the chemist/supermarket and step it up a gear. Outside of the organic market - up to around £150 you get what you pay for (in some circumstances - you still need to check the ingredients to see what you are paying for!). After that you're paying for packaging, the rent and payroll and holiday home of the name on the box. I fully get that the majority of us are on much smaller budgets - but honestly - you need to look at the £40-£100 mark for serums and moisturisers if they are hi-tech. Cleansers can all be around the £25 - £60 mark - but it would have to be a bloody good cleanser/larger size to get me to £60. If you want quality skincare and are willing to forgo the hi-tech, you can get amazing quality natural/organic products that are very affordable.
  
• A final tip - equate your skincare spending to what you would spend on a handbag or shoes. I'm not saying you should - I'm saying you should be willing to. If you would spend more on a bag than your face - you're reading the wrong blog.
  I welcome you with open arms, but you are reading the wrong blog.