SPF: the post-holiday breakdown

After the recent City SPF video I had quite a few questions about what products I would use to actually sit on a beach/go on a sunny holiday, so just before we left for the airport, I fired off these pictures of our lineup.

A few notes on my experience/surroundings:

• We went to Greece for one week. Me, the Mr, Ava and Max. Four people of varying sizes and skin gradings on the Fitzpatrick scale. I would say Jim is a 3, Max is between a 3 and 4, Ava is a 4 and although I would identify as a 4, I tan like a 5 due to my background.

For your reference

• I reapplied at least every hour, on myself and Max. Ava took care of herself and reapplied more often as she was in water 90% of the time.
• The temperature was between 26 and 30 degrees daily (85 fahrenheit approx)

Left to right:

Vichy Ideal Soleil SPF 50 (spray) - this was Ava's favourite by far for the body. It was empty by around Day 4. Very good. She's extremely sporty and wanted a spray for ease. I supervised the first few applications to make sure she wasn't cutting corners and after that she was fine. She didn't burn on her body and I would definitely repurchase/recommend.
Available from FeelUnique.com and Boots.com

Sisley Super Soin Solaire Facial Sun Care SPF 30 - rather excruciatingly, this was Ava's favourite for face. In the spirit of fully disclosing, Sisley sent this to me for review, and although it is absolutely beautiful, I winced at the price tag. If you can afford it, it's lovely, if you can't, don't sweat it. (See what I did there?)
Absolutely no burn, no sting and great texture.

Available from Liberty and John Lewis

Clarins has been my choice of SPF for nearly 20 years. The smell of it alone reminds me of holidays and puts me in a good mood. I used the 50 spray on top of the 30 cream in some hard-to-reach areas and we all used the SPF50 (not pictured) for face for the first few days (we used it up) and then moved to the 30 around Day 4. The body products were similarly good, the spray being very handy for the kids and Jim and I both found it helpful for backs of legs, feet etc. The 50 spray was mainly used on Max, who had no complaints and did not burn at all.

Available from John Lewis and Nordstrom

Clinique make brilliant SPF products that are also fragrance-free. We had an issue with the packaging though. The lids on the larger body bottles kept popping open in transit. Luckily I am anal and pack SPF in ziplock bags so when we arrived to find one had opened and spilled out, it was just a case of cleaning the other bottles, not all our clothes. It did it again in our bags when we were out in the town, meaning we ended up only using it poolside because it couldn't be trusted.

Having said that, the SPF in the bottles is so good that I would still recommend. Jim would only use the 'little white one' on his face and we had three body, which all got used. Brilliant, brilliant SPF with packaging that you need to sellotape. :)

Available in the UK from Clinique.co.uk and then Clinique.com for other countries. The new mineral sunscreens that we used seem to be sold out in a lot of places - you may have to hunt around for them.

Hair-wise, I've used Phtyo Plage since I was first trained in it in SpaceNK twenty years ago. Some old habits die hard. :) I gave Ava the one on the left, I used the one for ultra dry hair. Sprayed on hair liberally, although I generally only reapplied once more during the day, usually after lunch.

Available from Sephora and lookfantastic.com

I found the next three in Greece. I've loved Hei Poa ever since I first found it in Paris years ago, but this was the first time I bought the SPF. I loved it. The smell, the texture, not too oily, absorbs nicely and is not extortionate. Available on Amazon so probably in most countries.

You can't talk about SPF without mentioning Lancaster. Lancaster has an almost iconic status in SPF land (certainly in Europe), but their distribution in the UK has never been organised very well and between pulling out of the country altogether years ago and then coming back far too quietly (I'd have been screaming it to the press), they have kind of slipped off the radar. Not in Europe however, every pharmacy in Paris carries pretty much the whole range and in super sizes (how rude).
The Dry Touch Gel SPF20 won 'Best Packaging' hands down on this trip. Soft touch tube, pump dispenser, no mess anywhere, and not runny. Excellent product, excellent packaging. The SPF15 Silky Milk Sublime Tan was used the last couple of days on holiday and although great as an SPF, it's incredibly runny and the opening at the top is too large for the texture of the formula, leading to a lot of (entertaining) incidents with Mr Hirons swearing and asking us if we needed anymore SPF as he had half the contents of his bottle in his hand. Great product, annoying packaging.

Available on Amazon

After Sun:
Mixed results and reactions with these. The Clarins Creams were more popular than the Gel, and the Clinique Rescue Balm was easiest the nicest one to use. Calming, soothing and hydrating. The Clarins Facial After Sun stung at the end of the day so we switched to La Roche Posay Toleraine which I had luckily thrown into the case at the last minute.
The Toleraine was pretty much the perfect after sun. Used in the evenings before bed, the skin was left hydrated and nourished with no spots the next day. Also obviously a brilliant moisturiser for dry skins...

Clarins After Suns are available from John Lewis and Nordstrom
La Roche Posay Toleraine Ultra Nuit is available from Look Fantastic









*For those of you already asking - it all went in Max's suitcase. He's small, he only packs shorts and vests and even WITH the sun creams his case was 8kg. :))



I sometimes (not always) use affiliate links. If you are happy to click on the link and support this blog in that way, thank you very much. If you would prefer not to, just google the brand and the item, it's all cool. :)
I do not use affiliate links on products belonging to brands that I work with on a professional basis.
See my full disclaimer here:
http://bit.ly/1rpEmSq

The views expressed on this site are the author's own and are provided for informational purposes only. The author makes no warranties about the suitability of any product or treatment referenced or reviewed here for any person other than herself and any reliance placed on these reviews or references by you is done so solely at your own risk. Nothing on this site shall be construed as providing dermatological, medical or other such advice and you are always advised to seek the advice of a suitable professional should you have any such concerns.

FAQs from the Fave Fives

If you're a regular reader you will know that I am currently stopping my kids from killing each other daily on a really peaceful holiday in Greece and so haven't responded to the insane amount of questions/comments under the recent batch of 'Fave Fives' videos. There were, however, a few questions that were repeated so often that I thought I'd address the all together in one place, killing two birds with one stone. (Actually that's a really horrible saying. Leave the birds alone.)

When do I apply my SPF? First or last?
Always last. SPF is your coat. It goes on top of moisturiser and under makeup.

When do I apply my retinol/vitamin A? 
First thing after cleansing on a dry face, unless otherwise specified. 95% of vitamin A products, and all prescription strength ones, go onto dry skin after cleansing. There are newer formulations, such as the Zelens one in the picture above, but that is covered in the video.

Can I use acids before my retinols?
There is no flat answer to this. You can, but it will be on a case-by-case basis. I mention in the video that I wouldn't use P50 with Ketrel cream, but I would use P50 with Luna/Zelens/Pestle & Mortar etc, so you'll have to use your common sense. If your face is burning, STOP!

Can/Should I use moisturiser after retinols?
Yes. Unless specifically stated otherwise. I always do. And I don't leave a huge amount of time before I do so. Life is too short to set an alarm to put face cream on.

Can I use my holiday SPF as a City SPF?
Of course you can. But bear in mind that they will be thicker, feel more 'present' on the skin and therefore perhaps not as good under makeup. City SPFs are finer in texture and are normally really pleasant to use.



And a final word to those of you from other parts of the world asking me to talk specifically about products from your country. If I can't see it, buy it, and play with it, it's not on my radar. Sorry. Start a blog from your country - there's clearly a need! :)

Fave Fives: City SPFs - August 2016

Hi Everyone!

Some city SPFs for you. All my previous SPF videos/blog posts are here:

SPF with Dr Marko Lens Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIxMaRj9z6U

SPF with Dr Marko Lens Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEhRhDt1Pco

SPF Cheat Sheet: http://www.carolinehirons.com/2015/07/spf-cheat-sheet.html

All my SPF posts: http://www.carolinehirons.com/search/label/SPF

Products Discussed:

ZELENS DAILY DEFENCE:
SPF30, no tint.
£55.00/$85.00

UK: http://bit.ly/2beT5lo

USA: http://bit.ly/2be7k8W


RADICAL SKIN PERFECTING SCREEN:
SPF30, tinted.
£38.00/$55.00

UK: http://bit.ly/2beTuEG

USA: http://bit.ly/2aQ5qHN


CLARINS UV PLUS :
SPF50, no tint.
£32.00/$42.00

UK: http://bit.ly/2bpJPaA

USA: http://bit.ly/2aSSeEU (closest to it - SPF rules are different in the US)


CLINIQUE CITY BLOCK SHEER:
SPF25
£18.00/$24.50

UK: http://bit.ly/2beTR21

USA: http://bit.ly/2bpJViA


CLINIQUE SUPER CITY BLOCK:
SPF 40
£18.00/$24.50

UK: http://bit.ly/2bfDduY

USA: http://bit.ly/2bpK9WI


CHANEL UV ESSENTIEL SPF 30:
No tint.
£42.00/$55.00

UK: http://bit.ly/2aSUgou

USA: http://bit.ly/2be9aqa


CHANEL UV ESSENTIEL SPF 50:
No tint.
£42.00/$55.00

UK: http://bit.ly/2bpKVmQ

USA: http://bit.ly/2bsjHjy


LA ROCHE POSAY ANTHELIOS:
SPF30, no tint, although tinted versions are available.
£16.50

Worldwide: http://bit.ly/2bpKZCN


SKINCEUTICALS MINERAL DEFENCE
SPF50, tinted.
£39.00/$34.00

UK: http://bit.ly/2bpL5KJ

USA: http://bit.ly/2bpMn8I  (different in USA)


ARMANI MAESTRO UV SPF50:
No tint.
£40.00/$64.00

UK: http://bit.ly/2beVxbu

USA: http://bit.ly/2beURDb


KATE SOMERVILLE DAILY DEFLECTOR SPF50
No tint.
$48.00

UK: http://bit.ly/2bpLMUm

USA: http://bit.ly/2beVigW



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Caroline Hirons c/o
Gleam Futures
6th Floor
60 Charlotte Street
London W1T 2NU
caroline@gleamfutures.com  (skincare queries cannot be answered at this address)

I sometimes (not always) use affiliate links. If you are happy to click on the link and support this blog in that way, thank you very much. If you would prefer not to, just google the brand and the item, it's all cool. :) For absolute clarity: I do not use affiliate links on products belonging to brands that I work with on a professional basis.
See my full disclaimer here:
http://bit.ly/1rpEmSq

The views expressed on this site are the author's own and are provided for informational purposes only. The author makes no warranties about the suitability of any product or treatment referenced or reviewed here for any person other than herself and any reliance placed on these reviews or references by you is done so solely at your own risk. Nothing on this site shall be construed as providing dermatological, medical or other such advice and you are always advised to seek the advice of a suitable professional should you have any such concerns.

Chanel UV Essentiel Multi-Protection Daily Defender

I've covered SPF extensively in the last few years so this year I'm going to focus primarily on light facial SPFs, suitable for daily use as well as holiday - and these from Chanel are kicking us off.

These two new formulas, available in both SPF30 and 50, offer UVA and UVB protection, long UVA, infrared and indoor lighting protection.

It's a very light, liquid formula and utilises zinc and titanium dioxide in nano form. Suitable for all skin types and colours but I would test the 50 on your skin before you purchase if you're very dark, it may be slightly ash. The 30 seems completely fine though. They both work fine under foundation.

The bottles and descriptions are very similar to the current Chanel SPFs but these are not released until 27th May so don't confuse these with the current offering on counter.

Chanel UV Essentiel Multi-Protection Daily Defender is £42.00 for 30ml and will be available nationwide at the end of the month.

The Body Shop Skin Defence

When The Body Shop released the Vitamin E SPF this week, I did an audible 'about TIME'. Well they've already brought another one out, and it's only Friday. :)

This new Skin Defence is SPF50 PA++++ and superbly formulated to be really light and almost water-like upon application. Used after moisturiser and under foundation, it's non-greasy and leaves no greasy film or residue. 

Out May - £16.00 for 40ml. More details to follow.

The Vitamin E SPF is already available here: TBS/VitEspf £14.00 for 50ml.

SPF - BEACH/CITY - FACE - La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL Fluid and Creme

Broad Spectrum? UVA symbol (in EU)?

Yes - symbol and 'Very High Protection' on both.

Physical or chemical?

Both

La Roche-Posay also state that all Anthelios products scored a high PPD rating, but they don't give an exact figure.

SPF active ingredients (in order of %)?

Creme

Tinosorb M

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Drometrizole Trisiloxanev - Mexoryl XL

Titanium Dioxide nano and non-nano

Lotion

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane - Avobenzone

Octocrylene

Drometrizole Trisiloxane - Mexoryl XL

Cream/gel/spray/oil?

Cream and runny lotion

White/ash residue on darker skins?

No, surprisingly, as the cream is quite thick.  

Absorbs well even at high SPF?

The cream understandably takes longer to absorb.

Potential to block pores based on the above?

No.

Works under makeup?

Yes

Does it leave you shiny?

No

Is it sticky?

No

Contains fragrance?

No

Suitable for all skin types?

Yes, but the cream is designed for even the most sensitive and sun intolerant skins, so if you are the type of skin that develops a rash as soon as you step out into the sunshine, try the cream first.

Water resistant/waterproof/sweat resistant?

Both labelled 'Very water-resistant'

Antioxidants/any skin benefits?

Yes. Baicalin - to protect against UV, including long UVA.

Additional info?

One of the best sellers in the UK and Europe, this formula may differ in the USA unless you bring it in from a European seller, be warned.

Price?

Creme - £15.50 for 50ml

Lotion - £17.00 for 50ml

Both available from Boots.com - word of caution - Boots.com says that it contains fragrance - they're wrong. Relax. It doesn't. Someone is clearly confused by the term 'sans parfum'. ;)

Favourite Facial City SPFs

By the time you read this I will be in Rome putting a few of these to the real test. With average temperatures of 37 degrees C/98 Fahrenheit I am more than a little scared of a melasma explosion and thus spare no expense when it comes to city/face SPFs. They are in the same category as serums for me. Way more important than a moisturiser. It's one of the true investments in your future face.

When I'm thinking 'no nonsense' protection, but I need/want to wear makeup, these are the four products I am never without. In alphabetical order - no favourites. Links in the titles.

Creme de La Mer The Reparative Face Sun Lotion Broad Spectrum SPF30

Obviously this is the luxury option and boy does it feel it. Absorbs beautifully, leaves a comforting 'glow' layer on the skin - softens, hydrates, contains all the usual Le Mer key ingredients including Golden Algae Ferment that is triggered by sun exposure, the sea waters etc etc. 

I literally only use this for holidays where I want my skin to glow and have the option of wearing makeup, like you keep your new or best shoes/handbags for the same reason. I reapply throughout the day no problem. If reapplying over makeup, I stick to CC creams. Particularly Lauder or Kate Somerville, which has the edge because its tints are good colours. £90.00/$130.00 for 50ml (I know I know)

SkinCeuticals Mineral Radiance UV Defense SPF50

When I'm feeling oilier/more prone to breakouts this is what I head to. Broad Spectrum, 100% mineral filters, this has a slightly mattifying effect and although it has only one colour tint, that disperses upon application and doesn't cause problems for darker skins (to the best of my knowledge and reader feedback). I love SkinCeuticals products and this is no exception. £35.00 for 50ml.
N.B. - The SkinCeuticals range is different in the USA and appears to be called Physical Fusion and is a shockingly more affordable $34.00. How rude.

Kate Somerville Daily Deflector Moisturiser SPF50+/PA+++

This one is actually my favourite feel. I love the glow and the smell of sunscreen and this has both in abundance. Broad Spectrum SPF50, this is substantial enough to use as a moisturiser without another one underneath - something regular readers will know I very rarely advocate/do.
Contains the same delivery system for the SPF ingredients as the Zelens so they both offer less chance of an allergy or dermal uptake. Genius. Also contains retinyl palmitate and Matrixyl 3000 peptide. Super.
$48.00 for 50ml (approx £31.00 plus import duties)


Zelens Daily Defence Broad Spectrum SPF30

Probably the one that I trust the most, if I had to pick, primarily because I was working with Dr Lens when he was developing this product (I'm not now, we're just mates) and know what dedication went into the formula. 

Broad Spectrum SPF30, this is loaded with all sorts of proven antioxidants including polyphenols and pycnogenol. Most importantly, it contains unique micro-encapsulated filters that prevent direct skin contact with the active ingredients. Great for sensitivity. £55.00/$85.00 for 50ml

All of these are highly, highly recommended.

SPF BODY Recommendations Round-up

I've had some urgent requests on social media and in the comments section from people going away on holiday imminently that want SPF recommendations 'NOW'. LOL

So let's make like speed-dating and run through some of my favourites - I don't want to get shouted at for being too slow! ;)

It is worth remembering that:

SPF items are the most widely-varied legislated beauty products on the market. An ingredient that I mention in a product might be completely different in the US or Australia. Do your research in your own country before you buy. The main differences are between Australia, Europe and the US. For the rest of you it will depend where the brands that are sold in your country are made. 

Things to look out for: fragrance or alcohol really high on the inci list - probably best avoided if you're sensitive.

Try and avoid methylisothiazolinone if you can see an ingredients list and are particularly sensitive - it's one of the biggest allergens around at the moment in leave-on products and although Europe is ahead of the game, it's still readily used in the US in particular. I tried to include Ulta own-brand SPFs in this overview because they look good from the outset but they all contain it so I left them out.

Once-a-day formulas. Not a fan of promoting once-a-day SPFs. And frankly, using them on children and actually not reapplying them throughout the day is tantamount to child abuse. What I would do, is use them in the morning and top up with a spray. But only applying SPF once a day and never reapplying is too dangerous, especially on children.

Supermarket/chemist (Boots/Superdrug/Sainsbury's etc in the UK) products are incredibly cheap, but can come with more fragrance and higher levels of alcohol - do your research - and by all means if you find a great one, share in the comments! The huge exception is below in the overview as a Star Buy.

If in doubt, don't go over a 50. I personally tend to stick to 30 on my body these days as I know I have to reapply it, whereas a 50 makes me think 'It'll be ok'. The difference in strength between a 30 and 50 is between 1% and 4% depending on the product - its not an 'extra 20'.

This is an overview and obviously won't be in-depth, but if you are happy to roll with my recommendations (plus boring stock pictures) and check the details out for yourself - I'll provide links - then off we go:

What I take on holiday for me:

Clarins
I know they've been on the blog already with the face, but this is an evergreen product range for us. We've never burned or had any issues. Broad Spectrum. This SPF30 is the best IMO. It's £19.50 for 125ml.

There is also an SPF20 that comes in a 200ml size for £21.00. Both great and available here. 

Clinique

Ava has just been dispatched on her hols with this SPF35 stick by Clinique - fragrance-free and perfect for kids as they seem to find it easier to apply that a lotion. She has creams as well of course, but she actually enjoys using this and with children/teens, that's half the battle right there.

Clinique SPP body products are especially great for those of you with fragrance issues. Being Clinique, all of the sun products are fragrance and oil free (check your region) and Broad Spectrum (across the board). Available here.

Marks & Spencer - *STAR BUY*

This is the exception to the own-label warning in the bullet points at the beginning. Good old M&S list their ingredients, have all the appropriate warnings, are Made in England, in an eco-factory, BUAV approved (cruelty-free) at source, vegetarian and HALF PRICE at the moment. 

UK people: run, do not walk, to your local M&S and clear the shelves. Also available here.

Decleor

Decleor have long made great sun products and I know it's not relevant, but their red, soft touch packaging is easily my favourite. The 50 for body is a good place to start. It's £24.00 for 150ml and available here.

Hawaiian Tropic

I include this as I've probably used a bottle of some sort of Hawaiian Tropic every year of my life. What we won't do is talk about/recommend the SPF4/6 etc because that's just crazy talk. Stick to the 30s and 50s, enjoy the scent and reminisce and laugh about my generation that would lie on foil and use baby oil. Or you know, don't. *fries* Available here.

Coola

Coola has one of the best websites I've seen for descriptions, warnings and clear ingredient listings. It puts everyone else to shame. They're clear about nano, fragrance and give true water-resistant times. The 30 in the picture above is particularly lush. Available here. 

Bioderma

Available everywhere in mainland Europe and not extortionate, stick with the 50s as the 20 and 30 only come in sprays. Available here. 

Hampton Sun

I've worked with Hampton Sun for nearly 5 years. Just putting that out there. I stay with them because I love the products. That's why they are listed here, not the former. This in particular, is wonderful as a baby body SPF OR facial SPF for an adult. I use it on Max, Ava and myself. Available here.


If you have any other quick yes or no questions do please leave me a comment below and I'll do my best to answer them in a timely fashion! :)

SPF - FACE - CITY - Goldfaden MD Sun Visor SPF30 Mist

15.08.15 N.B. THIS POST HAS BEEN UPDATED AND A RESPONSE FROM GOLDFADEN IS AVAILABLE HERE: www.carolinehirons.com/goldfaden-md-response

Broad Spectrum? UVA symbol (in EU)?

Not clear. It says UVA/UVB protection but does not state 'Broad Spectrum' anywhere - see the additional info column at the bottom, because there is a lot of it!

Physical or chemical?

Both

SPF active ingredients (in order of %)?

Titanium Dioxide - nano

Octinoxate

Benzophenone-3 - Oxybenzone

Cream/gel/spray/oil?

Spray

White/ash residue on darker skins?

No

Absorbs well even at high SPF?

Yes.

Potential to block pores based on the above?

No, it's light and shouldn't cause huge issues for people with acnaic issues.

Works under makeup?

Yes, but this is usually mentioned when discussing things to spray over makeup - see additional info box below.

Does it leave you shiny?

Not personally, but as in previous posts do let me know if you've used it and experienced the opposite.

Is it sticky?

No

Contains fragrance?
No

Suitable for all skin types?
Yes

Water resistant/waterproof/sweat resistant?
'Reapply after sweating or swimming.'

Antioxidants/any skin benefits?

'Organic red tea to rejuvenate and provide antioxidant benefits'

Additional info? - Yes. LOTS.
OK. I almost don't know where to begin with this one. I 100% went into this review expecting to be able to say to all of you that want something to spray over makeup that this was for you. I am asked about this product almost daily - mainly by women who want to spray something on top of their makeup so that they don't have to reapply 'traditional' SPF by removing their makeup mid-afternoon. I've met the team behind Goldfaden, they're lovely people.
So I'm taking emotion out of it and presenting you with the facts, so you can make your own mind up.

I have numerous concerns, namely:

• this product contains oxybenzone at 1%, but is not labelled with a warning as required by EU law in products containing oxybenzone at a percentage higher than 0.5: ec.europa.eu/consumers/cosmetics 
• The packaging description says it contains zinc oxide, but zinc oxide is not listed in the ingredients list. So if it does contain zinc oxide, the ingredients list is misleading, aka unlawful, and if it doesn't contain zinc oxide, then they are at best, misleading their customer.

• the box clearly states 'silicone-free' like a badge of honour - below:

but it contains two silicones - polydimethylsiloxane and dimethylsiloxane. These ingredients are chemical silicones, any which way you dress them up.

Even the Net-A-Porter website repeats the non-silicone claim. N.B. - Net-A-Porter updated their website as of 10.08.15 to remove the 'silicone-free' claim.

• And then this one:

Make absolutely no mistake, the only 'natural' ingredient in this product is water. End of.

• Not only that, the titanium dioxide is nano-encapsulated, something which the California senate is so concerned about that Goldfaden MD have to have the proposition 65 warning on their website. The list includes 'airborne titanium dioxide' in 'a list of chemicals known to the state to cause cancer or reproductive toxicity'.
  Nano-encapsulated titanium dioxide is a topic of much discussion in the SPF world, but what everyone pretty much agrees on is that inhaling it is probably not the best idea. And this is a spray. 
• 'Do not use on or near the eyes.' It's a spray. Recommended for the face. 

Make of all of that what you will, but I have never reviewed a product with so many contradictory claims and bad labeling. On the plus side, it's making me nervous and I'm going back over previous reviews and checking all upcoming ones with a fine-tooth comb to make sure I'm being fair across the board. 

I'm so shocked by the outcome of this review that I even traipsed through as many UK vs US retail sites and reviews that list ingredients to give Goldfaden the benefit of the doubt - I thought perhaps they could have made a UK version of the product and maybe there had been a mix-up between US and UK boxes, but then realised if they had made an EU version, it would, you would hope, be EU compliant. But all to no avail. All the labelling/packaging/ingredients appear to be the same box available on both sides of the Atlantic.

If Goldfaden MD can counteract any of this with facts/proof/reassurance I will happily publish. I know a lot of you have bought and used this product, and my hope is obviously, that you enjoyed it, it did its job and you suffered no adverse reactions. But if you did, maybe email the brand for clarification? 

Something or someone, somewhere, has gone wrong.

15.08.15 - Update - Goldfaden MD response is here: www.carolinehirons.com/goldfaden-md-response

Price?
£40.00 for 80ml available from SpaceNK.com and GoldfadenMD.com -(where, incidentally they also mention the zinc oxide with no sign of it on the inci)

SPF - CITY - FACE - Clinique Super City Block 40SPF Ultra Protection

N.B. - The front of the EU version says '40 SPF Ultra Protection'

Broad Spectrum? UVA symbol (in EU)?
Yes

Physical or chemical?
Both

SPF active ingredients (in order of %)?

Octinoxate 7.50%, Octisalate 2.00%, Titanium Dioxide 5.20%, Zinc Oxide 6.00%. 

Other Ingredients: Water\Aqua\Eau, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Laureth-4, PEG-100 Stearate, Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Porphyra Yezoensis (Algae) Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract\Extrait D'orge, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Gentiana Lutea (Gentian) Root Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Plankton Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Yeast Extract\Faex\Extrait De Levure, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pantethine , PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer, Acetyl Glucosamine, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyethylene, Caffeine, Isohexadecane, Methicone, Nylon-12, Zeolite, Lecithin, Polysorbate 80, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isostearic Acid, Calcium Chloride, Alumina, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Hexylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499).

Cream/gel/spray/oil?
Lotion to cream consistency.

White/ash residue on darker skins?
It has colour on application but that rubs away.

Absorbs well even at high SPF?
Yes

Potential to block pores based on the above?:
It shouldn't do, it's quite a powdery finish.

Works under makeup?
Yes

Does it leave you shiny?
No, it's powdery.

Is it sticky?
No

Contains fragrance?
No

Suitable for all skin types?
Yes, including very sensitive,but very dry may prefer the sun product as it feels a little more emollient on the skin.

Water resistant/waterproof/sweat resistant?
Sweat resistant, but i'd still reapply on the top of the forehead if you're out in the heat.

Suitable for beach and city use?
Yes, but I would be tempted to stick to the designated areas as it were, as the beach products have added benefits for sun damage.

Antioxidants/any further skin benefits?
Yes

Additional info?
I love Clinique suncare. The beach and city products are both great and I personally have never had any adverse reactions to them.

The Super City Block 40SPF is one of my most requested product reviews so I thought I would lead off with that.

Price?
£18.00 for 40ml available from Clinique.co.uk

Jessica Alba's Honest SPF30

Jessica Alba's Honest company is under fire from customers who say that they and their children were badly burned after using the company's SPF products.

The billion dollar company started receiving complaints back in March via reviews on Amazon, complaints direct to their website and obviously, social media - as the below..

All of the complainants said that they applied the SPF as directed, and always reapplied every two hours as guided.

There are numerous theories as to why this SPF, which was reformulated this year after customer feedback, is failing. The two main ones being that after feedback from customers, the company lowered the percentage of zinc oxide from 20% to 9.3% so that it would not leave any white residue and be easier to apply - and that perhaps customers did not shake the product before use, leading to an uneven distribution of the zinc oxide.

Why, exactly, it took nearly 6 months for the company to address the complaints publicly and release statements to the media is a lesson in PR. If parents are saying their children are being burned, you act. 

Own it, fix it, move on. Don't ignore it and advise people that they must have applied it incorrectly.

The lessons for the rest of us?

'Natural' is not always the best option.

A product that claims to be 'natural', in most cases, using zinc oxide, is and should be fairly thick to apply. You can't have it both ways.

The Honest SPF30 scored brilliantly on the EWG website. As I said in my first SPF post, take the EWG with a pinch of salt.

Shake well before use. Always, no matter what the SPF product. 

Trust your instincts, not the product bottle description. If you feel like you are burning, you probably are.

Watch your children. Kids never like having SPF applied, but they have to be completely covered. I'm not publishing the pictures of the children with sunburn allegedly caused by the Honest SPF, but they are awful.  Neck, ears, forehead and the apples of the cheeks are where I see the most sun damage in clients and their little ones.

Please do leave me any comments if you've used the Honest SPF - good or bad, and equally, let me know of your favourite SPF products, especially for your children. 

You can read the Honest Company's statement here: blog.honest.com/a-message-from-the-founders

SPF - BEACH - FACE - Clarins Sun Wrinkle Control Cream for Face SPF 15/30/50

Why make life easy for myself? Typically, I'm starting with three products. As they all belong to the same family tree I thought it would be easier to group them.

A repeat from yesterday that I will put in every review for clarity:

I pay very little attention to the scare-mongering of the EWG. If you love them, great, crack on, but I don't use the words 'toxic' when it comes to products. It's a nonsense.

Always apply SPF at least 20 minutes before going outside unless otherwise stated.

Always apply last after moisturiser, before makeup - unless otherwise stated.

PPD, however useful, is very rarely mentioned by brands, and hardly ever discussed by US brands.

So: Clarins

Broad Spectrum? UVA symbol (in EU)?
Yes

Physical or chemical?
Chemical

Main SPF active ingredients (in order of %)?
(excuse the pictures - much easier than typing out!)

SPF15:

Homosolate
Avobenzone
Octocrylene

SPF30:

Octocrylene

Tinosorb M - nano encapsulated 

Avobenzone

SPF50:

Octocrylene

Tinosorb M - nano encapsulated

Tinosorb S

Avobenzone

Cream/gel/spray/oil?
Creams

White/ash residue on darker skins?
No

Absorbs well even at high SPF?
Yes

Potential to block pores based on the above?:
No

Works under makeup?
Yes

Does it leave you shiny?
No, not at all, but check some comments from readers below.

Is it sticky?
No

Contains fragrance?
Yes - it is one of the best smelling SPF's out there in my opinion - but again, check comments below and then decide for yourself.

Suitable for all skin types?
Yes

Water resistant/waterproof/sweat resistant?
Sweat resistant

Antioxidants/any skin benefits?
Obviously. It's Clarins so this is like a lovely moisturiser with SPF - but SPF is its main job. It contains the usual plant extracts and the like, but let's not detract from the job at hand.

Additional info:
This is by far my family's favourite facial SPF, hence it being my first post. Across all age groups and both sexes, and all skin types, this is the most-requested SPF when we are buying/using.
The SPF30 is the best seller for Clarins, and The Hirons Clan would agree with the general public on that score.

Price:
£19.50 for 75ml

Available from all Clarins stockists and Boots.com

SPF - the prep post

I thought I'd round up the SPF posts into groups - by brands - otherwise it will be wayyyyy too long a post. With the best will in the world I could never write one post for body and one for face. There are just too many options. I'll try to give a very brief overview of the products I particularly rate based on the questions I am asked the most often, rather than going in-depth into ingredients.
If you think of any other key points you would like covered, leave a comment and I'll add them in if there is enough demand. If you have any questions I'll try and answer them below the individual SPF product post but you may have to go directly to the brands for specifics.
And please - Don't shoot the messenger people!
Some of you want 'natural'/'physical (which is a chemical but whatevs), some want chemical, I'll try and dish up ones that I actually think are great no matter what the category. And I'm just going to bang them out as quickly as I can, not just once a day - because you know - AUGUST ALREADY.

I'm breaking them up into beach/city and face/body, but that doesn't mean that you can't use a beach SPF year-round in London - it just means there may be something more suited to that specification - if that makes sense.

I thought I would double-check the most-requested questions before I kick off tomorrow so if there is something not covered below leave me a comment and I can add it in. Ooh so organised!

General things to bear in mind:

I pay very little attention to the scare-mongering of the EWG. If you love them, great, crack on, but I don't use the words 'toxic' when it comes to products. It's a nonsense.

Always apply SPF at least 20 minutes before going outside unless otherwise stated.

Always apply last after moisturiser, before makeup - unless otherwise stated.

PPD, however useful, is very rarely mentioned by brands, but I'll see what I can find out.

Some typical UVA protecting ingredients (not exclusive):

• MEXORYL SX- also known as ECAMSULE or TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID-
• MEXORYL XL- also known as DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE
• TINOSORB S- also known as BEMOTRIZINOL or BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYLTRIAZINE
• TINOSORB M- also known as BISOCTRIZOLE or METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYL BUTYLPHENOL
• AVOBENZONE- also known as BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METHANE

Some typical UVB protecting ingredients (not exclusive):

• PADIMATE O
• OCTINOXATE
• OCTISALATE
• OCTOCRYLENE
• ENSULIZOLE
• HOMOSALATE - also known as 3,3,5-TRIMETHYL- SALICYLATE CYCLOHEXANOL; 3,3,5-TRIMETHYLCYCLOHEXYL 2-HYDROXYBENZOATE; 3,3,5-TRIMETHYLCYCLOHEXYL SALICYLATE; 

Both UVA and UVB:

OXYBENZONE - also known as Benzophenone-3 or 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

Physical - UVA and UVB:

ZINC OXIDE

TITANIUM DIOXIDE

Broad Spectrum? UVA symbol (in EU)?

Physical or chemical?

SPF active ingredients (in order of %)?

Cream/gel/spray/oil?

White/ash residue on darker skins?

Absorbs well even at high SPF?

Potential to block pores based on the above?:

Works under makeup?

Does it leave you shiny?

Is it sticky?

Contains fragrance?

Suitable for all skin types?

Water resistant/waterproof/sweat resistant?

Antioxidants/any skin benefits?

Price?

Emma Hardie Protect & Prime SPF30 - Triple Giveaway

If you watched the first video of the 'In the Bathroom' Series that I filmed with Sali Hughes, you will have seen Sali pull this out of my stash.

Emma Hardie's Protect & Prime SPF30 is a lovely, lightweight, SPF that can be used alone or as a primer - killing two birds with one stone. It leaves a beautiful glow on the skin and no white/ash obvious remnants on darker skins.

The lovely Emma has given me 5 Protect & Prime SPF30 to giveaway to you lovely readers.

3 will be available to win here on the blog.

1 will be given away on Twitter. https://twitter.com/CarolineHirons

1 will be given away on Instagram. https://instagram.com/carolinehirons

Umpteen chances to make it yours. Good luck!

If you already have the SPF30, take a snap of it and upload it to Instagram tagging @emmahardieskicnare for a chance to win a pair of Tom Ford sunglasses. Details here: https://instagram.com/emmahardieskincare

Full T&Cs on the Rafflecopter entry.

Open Internationally.

Closes 2/8/15 at 11.59pm UK time.

You can enter once a day.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

SPF - CHEAT SHEET

When purchasing SPF the main questions to ask are:

What is the SPF?

Is it a Broad Spectrum product?

There are two main concerns from being in the sun: Skin-ageing and skin cancer.

UV Light causes sun burn and sun damage by damaging cellular DNA.

UVA (long-wave) causes the ageing and UVB (short-wave) causes the burning. 

Both the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services and the World Health Organization have identified UV as a proven human carcinogen. Therefore, there is no such thing as a ‘safe tan’. A tan is a sign of DNA damage. It is the result of a chemical reaction in your body as it tries (and fails) to protect itself from UV light. Brands selling SPF that use the term ‘safe tanning’ are at best misleading and at worst, clueless.

The majority of sun damage is done in the first 20 years of your life. Age spots/pigmentation appearing when you’re older are the fault of those Spanish teen holidays – not just the tan you got in Newquay last year. ;)

‘Natural’ vs ‘Chemical’
Physical (most commonly referred to as ‘natural’ in marketing materials) reflects the UV light. Traditionally 'chemical' SPFs absorb the light.
Physical sunscreen, contrary to popular belief and the GOOP website (please do not get me started), is not ‘natural’. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, most commonly used in ‘natural’ sunscreens have been shown to be toxic (and I use the word correctly) for fish/sealife - an estimated 4,000 to 6,000 metric tons of sunscreen washes off swimmers’ bodies annually with the potential to cause damage to fragile ecosystems.
Zinc and titanium oxide are not biodegradable and invariably use nano-technology, which is also under question by Cancer research bodies because of its possible links to cancers in humans.
If your preference is to use ‘natural’ your closest bet is a ‘non-nano’ oxide. Bear in mind it's still technically a chemical, no matter what the EWG say. The term non-nano means nothing to the FDA, but it may be better for you. Still tough cookies for the fish though.

Government Guidelines
FDA standards are different from Europe and Australasia. In the USA, SPF labelling is a requirement because the FDA says it is a drug. In Europe, it is classed as a cosmetic and therefore stating SPF classification is not mandatory, it’s just for information.

Having said that, European manufacturers are allowed to use seven proven UVA filters whilst the FDA in the USA only allows three, meaning that technically a European product has the potential to be more effective than an American-made product.

SPF is only relevant to UVB light. PPD - Persistent Pigment Darkening is one way of measuring UVA light but is now considered out-dated. The PA++ system, developed in the Far East is another method used – however neither of these are allowed when making broad spectrum claims in the USA. It’s enough to make you tear your hair out.

An in vitro test to gauge a Critical Wavelength is really what a brand should be able to show to claim Broad Spectrum on their packaging in the US and the UK. Critical Wavelength tests measure the absorbance of UV light on skin and a critical wavelength of 370nm is what you are looking for on literature. Not that many brands will bother labelling that information but do your research or ask them directly.

Myths:

• SPF does not accumulate. If you wear a moisturiser, primer and sunscreen you will only have the highest SPF that you are using, you cannot ‘add them up’.
• Pre-cancerous moles are a myth. They are either cancerous or they are not. If in doubt, cut it out. A mole is a benign lesion. Any changes, any – it needs to be checked by an expert and removed.
• Acne sufferers: whilst the sun may have a drying effect on your acne; but a lot of SPF products are comedogenic. Use oil-free sunscreens if possible. Avoid mineral oil in sunscreens (and your normal skincare).
• Darker skin, whilst not as vulnerable to UV light as lighter skin, still needs to protect itself from UV damage and use SPF. Although darker skins can stay longer in the sun without burning and they do not need the same high factors as a Type 1 person, they should still use SPF.
• No sunscreen is waterproof. They can only be listed as ‘water resistant’.
• SPF should be repurchased fresh every year. It degrades.
• Do not waste your money on a really expensive anti-ageing moisturiser with SPF. SPF is an all-encompassing product that will overtake any active/expensive ingredients in your skincare. Use your expensive skincare and apply a separate SPF on top.
• 'SPF 60 is twice as effective as SPF30'. Not true. There is only a 1% difference between SPF30 and SPF50. SPF30 is my most recommended level for that reason. You're covered, but you have no false sense of security. 

‘Cruelty-free’.
Never were more ingredients tested on animals in the beauty industry than SPF products. This does not mean the final product is tested on animals, meaning that brands that state they are against animal testing are not technically lying, it means the raw ingredients were, at some point, absolutely tested on animals in a lab to ensure ‘efficacy’, especially in the USA, where they are classed as drugs. Whilst this is true of the entire beauty and health industry, I mention it not to make you feel bad, purely to counterbalance the nonsense of ‘vegan, animal-friendly, non-toxic SPF 50’ claims that are frankly, nonsense. 

PETA can say there are a wealth of cruelty-free brands * but the reality is that the ingredients were tested on animals at some point. They may be cruelty-free now, but the ingredients have probably been tested on animals historically. Again, not being negative, just giving the full story. 

Even Lush, the champions against animal testing and ‘natural’ claims, use octocrylene and octyl methoxycinnamate, both chemical UVB sunscreens. Again, I am in no way singling out Lush, merely offering balance to the over-use of the word ‘toxic’ in scare-mongering media and frankly, some lies written by marketing departments and celebrity websites.

Application: 

• SPF is ALWAYS the last product to be applied to your skin.
• Apply your SPF 15-20 minutes before you go in the sun.
• Apply 2mg per Square CM which equates approximately to one teaspoon for your face and neck, two per chest, two per back, two per arm, two/three per leg depending on your height obviously. If you are particularly tall, or have a large frame, obviously use more. I use a tablespoon for face, neck and décolleté (fat head) - and I’m 5’11, so I use two tablespoons per body part.
• Reapply every 90 minutes to 2 hours or more often if in water.

Children:

If you have children the best advice is to cover them up and keep them out of direct sunlight as much as possible. 

• Reapply their SPF every 90 minutes, more frequently if they are getting wet. 
• If you have boys with short hair, remember the back of their necks and their ears. Every single person I have seen under a Wood’s Lamp has significant sun damage at the tops of their ears (women typically apply their SPF before they hit the beach and put their hair in a ponytail the minute they sit on the sand - EARS!) and above the eyebrows – and it’s always worse in my Australian clients. (Sorry Aussie friends – it’s true).

When asked what he would use on his child, Dr Marko Lens replied: ‘I would probably put a chemical sunscreen on my child. I would not feel comfortable using nano-technology on my child.’

And finally, my most-asked questions from my readers:

• Personally, I would not dream of using a ‘once a day’ sunscreen on holiday, especially on my children. It gives a false sense of security. I checked Ultrasun’s website and according to them if I use their SPF50 with my skin type, I can ‘safely’ stay in the sun for 10 hours. TEN. HOURS? No. In fairness to them – and again I am not attacking them, merely using their own website to source information, they also state categorically that if you are going into the water or perspire heavily that you need to reapply, which makes it a normal SPF in my book (and makes them ethical!) Where once a day formulas might come in handy are…
• Young children going to school. If, as mine do, your young children attend a school where the teachers are not allowed to touch the children, even with your permission, a once a day formula may be a good option. Your children may sweat a little, but they aren’t in the sea so should be protected still by 3.30pm. In theory. It still makes me uneasy, but it’s better than applying a typical 'kids' SPF15 at 8.30and that’s it for the day…. It’s your judgement call as a parent/carer.
• If you are wearing SPF under your makeup and going to work you will probably not be covered by lunchtime. You either need to reapply (not likely I know), use a once-a-day product, which are far better suited to city living than beach in my opinion, or buy yourself a big hat and be done with it. You could also use…
• Sprays. Here’s the thing with sprays: you have to make sure you have covered the entire area thoroughly and that is unlikely unless you are applying it to your child, in which case most of us show more due diligence than when we are applying to our own bodies. Use a spray over your makeup if you know you have applied it evenly and feel protected, otherwise, go down the once a day route or make like Jackie O and enjoy a hat and sunglasses. There is also cause for concern when inhaling sprays - something you will invariably do if the point is to apply it over your makeup. Your judgement call.
• I am frequently asked about Institut Esthederm. They are a tanning brand, not an SPF brand. Make of that what you will. 
• It is safe to use acid toners in the summer – just make sure you are using your SPF.
• If you wear SPF please double cleanse!

*PETA: http://www.peta.org/living/beauty/cruelty-free-summer-skin-care/

*FDA SPF Guidelines: http://www.fda.gov/Drugs/ResourcesForYou/Consumers/BuyingUsingMedicineSafely/UnderstandingOver-the-CounterMedicines/ucm258468.htm#Q6_What_are_the_main_points

FDA on Animal Testing/Cruelty-free: http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/Labeling/Claims/ucm2005202.htm