Sunday Facial Week 1

And another new regular feature.....I don't know why I haven't done this before because I do some sort of multi-stepped mask facial every weekend and even more often if I'm travelling.

After having my huge sort-through/clear out yesterday, I decided to up the ante and get as much of my routines/day-to-day goings-on up here or over on YouTube, including occasional vlogs. I KNOW. Me, vlogging. I hesitated for a long time but I actually get to see/do so much cool stuff that I figured I just needed to GET OVER MYSELF and get on with it.

Today's facial was a 3 step but not of the usual kind. I started with Omorovicza's Deep Cleansing Mask which seems to be 'zingier' than the last pot I had. Maybe it's a change in my skin but this one definitely has more 'oomph' and more tingle.

I tend to apply this all over my face and then add a second layer between the eyebrows (occasionally spotty for me because of my glasses), on the chin and on the cheeks.

I removed with a warm flannel and then I went in with P50 1970 Formula. I haven't used this for over 2 years and have Jordan to thank for bringing me a bottle over from the US when he was in town recently. Over 2 years since I breathed in that phenol whiff! :) I applied this on to cotton wool, took it slowly but surely all over the face, including lips, working top to bottom, then flipped it over and went back up the neck, over the cheeks and finished on the forehead. Numb bliss.

Then it was time for some serious hydration. Jane Scrivner's Ultra Hydration Masque went in a thick layer all around my eyes in a circle, followed by a light layer of SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Masque - I let that absorb and then went in slightly heavier handed with another layer as below....

Make sure you remember to take the hydrating mask right up and around the orbital eye area and don't forget the lips. I used Charlotte Tilbury's Lip Magic and again applied it fairly thickly.

The redness is to be expected after using P50, that's its job. It subsides fairly quickly, especially once the masks are put on top. 

I let everything soak in for a good 15 minutes, then spritz with a hydrating toner/water, in this case, Institut Esthederm's Eau Cellulaire, and apply more.

After another ten minutes or so you can remove any excess with a warm, damp flannel and apply another hydrating eye cream and moisturiser. You won't need much, your skin should be 'topped up'.

All of these steps can be replicated using whatever products you have that do a similar job, more affordable options - especially for the clay mask step and lip balm for example, will still work well. 

See you next Sunday! (maybe without the close-ups of my face though!) :)

The Top 10: Acid Toners

I imagine most of you lovely readers will fully expect what products are in my Top choices so before I carry on - I couldn't stop at 5, hence there are 10. And I've linked the below to previous reviews from either here on the blog or YouTube. Do please give me a shout if there are any blatant omissions - these are in no particular order.

1. P50 - preferably 1970 formula - the original and still one of the best, in all its variants. Reviewed in more detail earlier this week on here. Good for all skins, especially older.
2. Dennis Gross MD Alpha Beta Pads - these, it has to be said, are my absolute first choice for travel. Due to the disposable packaging they can be purchased in and the quick two-step process, they are perfect for using on the go - and brilliant too. Another one that is technically good for all skin types but will show best results on older skins.
3. Pixi Glow Tonic - the best affordable option, along with First Aid Beauty and one for all skins. A great starter option for younger skins and AM tone for older skins.
4. First Aid Beauty Radiance Pads - I use these most in the mornings, usually if I'm doing the school run because they are so easy to use. Also one of the more affordable options at around £20.00.
5. Peter Thomas Roth Unwrinkle Pads - Again for older skins, these are great for using in the evenings before a particularly active serum.
6. Zelens PHA Pads - Glycolic-free for those with problems using that particular acid, don't be fooled by the lack of glycolic. These pack a punch with PHA acids and make it easier for the skin to stay hydrated after use.
7. Kate Somerville Clinic To Go - a peel in a pad. Lush, travel well, work brilliantly, would be in my top 2 for travel except they are harder to get hold of in the UK so I have to use them really sparingly. 
8. Clearasil Daily Clear Superfruits Refreshing Pads - the real budget choice. A few pounds and a fine job for your money. If you are a teen and have a real budget, start with these.
9. Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion - salicylic acid only here, so again, if you suffer with a few spots, or simply cannot use other acids, this is perfect - it's also alcohol-free for those of you with issues with that.
10. Clarins Gentle Exfoliating Brightening Toner - Still lush and in my arsenal, this is better used a few times a week than twice a day.

That, by the way, is still my advice. Try and buy 2, preferably 3 acid products. A strong one for evenings, a lighter one for days and one more to mix it up. Acid toners are literally like taking your face to the gym. Different strengths and different acids do different things.

Lactic (AHA) - resurfacing, great for dehydrated and dry skin.

Glycolic (AHA) - stimulating for better collagen production, resurfacing.

Malic (AHA) - resurfacing, good for boosting collagen production

Salicylic (BHA) - best for spots/acne. Surprisingly gentle.

PHA's (Poly hydroxy acids) - best for those in need of hydration and deep penetration of product afterwards.



Before I am asked: Liquid Gold by Alpha-H is not a toner - it will be in nighttime treatment lists!

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

What is it?

A liquid balancing exfoliator. Designed to strengthen the epidermis, exfoliate skin, regulate excessive sebum secretion, hydrate the skin, maintain the skin’s pH, and prevent and treat ingrown hairs.

Who is it for?

All skin types - there are three options available in the EU and six available in the US due to the addition of the three originals with added phenol.
P50V is for older skins lacking tone.
P50W is for sensitive skins.

What’s in it?

Water (Aqua), Gluconolactone, Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Citric Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Malic Acid, Vinegar (Acetum), Phytic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root (Burdock Root) Extract, Rumex Acetosa Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Oil, Sulfur, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?

Acids, sulfur

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?

A mix of man made and plant - in the best way. :)

Tested on animals/sold in China?

No/Yes

What's not in it?

Alcohol
Glycolic acid

How do you use it?

Dampen a cotton pad, swipe over the face left to right, top to bottom, all the way down the neck. Flip the cotton pad over and go back up the way you came from!

What’s good about it?

Oh where to start? This was my first ever experience of an exfoliating acid, in Paris, 14 years ago. It was used at the beginning of a facial at Biologique Recherché and was immediately effective. It still sets the bar for me, exfoliating acid-wise. The now infamous '1970 Formula' is only available in the US, as the EU has banned phenol since I first started using it. How rude of them.

In fairness, this formula works better than the 1970 formula, it has less of a 'burn' and doesn't cause the skin to turn as red. Obviously, if you are a sensitive skinned user, that is preferable anyway..

This formula has gluconolactone, a poly-hydroxy acid, which is more gentle than glycolic, that also acts as an anti-inflammatory along with a higher concentration of lactic acid - and malic and phytic acids, both AHA's used to promote cell turnover and help with hyper pigmentation. 

The acids in this tackle skin problems from every angle - resurfacing, zapping blemishes, essentially 'stripping back' the skin so that what you use after it is more able to penetrate. I try and use P50 in the evenings when I'm following it with retinols/vitamin A serums or pigmentation products. That's why I generally use the others during the daytimes. Not a solid rule, more when I remember...

What’s not so good about it?

Some people don't like the smell (vinegar), but in a formula such as this, if you don't want alcohol, you need a preservative - and that's the job of the vinegar. Personally, I don't even notice it these days, such is the length of time that I've been using it, but forewarned etc..

Where to use in your routine?
After cleansing, before serums. 

Similar products? 
All the usual suspects, in varying degrees of strength. 
First Aid Beauty Pads 
Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Pads 
Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion (only the mild one) 
Colbert Intensify Facial Pads 

Biologique Recherche P50 is available in the UK from EF Medispa here: efmedispa.com is around £50.00 for the 150ml size. It also comes in a bigger size. The problem is, you can't buy it online. That's the decision of Biologique Recherché, not EF Medispa, so don't blame them if you contact them! :) You can find worldwide stockists here: biologique-recherche.com

P50. Going going gone.

Remember all the excitement when Liberty said they would be stocking P50? I know. Me too.

Liberty have just informed me that once their current stock has gone they will be getting no more in. The UK distributor will no longer sell the product into non-spa retail. Whether this is the brilliant idea of the distributor (so more people will have to buy directly from them thus earning them more money) or a direct order from Biologique Recherche themselves is unclear. 

As much as I would back any brand's right to sell wherever they want - it seems odd* to me that you would agree to retail, then renege on that once you realise how many thousands of pounds of sales you will gain if you keep it in-house. 

Not to worry, Pixi have tons of Glow Tonic in stock. 

*I say odd, I mean unethical.

P50 Newsflash - Liberty to the rescue.

I've just been informed by Liberty that they will be stocking P50 as of Friday - all because of this blog!

Even more unusual they are only taking the P50 at this stage - if it's successful they will look at expanding into the full range. They have confirmed they are taking all three variations of P50.

There now. As if you needed another reason to go to Liberty.

*all other beauty brands in Liberty Beauty Hall quake in their boots*

*Just to reiterate - I have no business connections to Biologique Recherche or Liberty. No affiliates.

New Year Skincare - Daily Beauty AM

If you follow me on twitter or Instagram you'll have already seen pictures like this - this is my morning routine of the moment. I thought I'd try and put some up here more regularly as I am always asked for further details on the products. (If you see one of these pics on twitter or Instagram and want more info just give me a kick - not literally - rude.)

Left to right are:

Sunday Riley Ceramic Slip Cleanser - really enjoying this. I use it in the mornings if I'm feeling grubby. It's like a runny clay and just cleanses and refreshes without drying. It doesn't in any way foam - ignore the description on the link.

P50 - I'm back to this at the moment - my post-Christmas skin needed the exfoliation and there's nothing quite like it. 

La Roche Posay Serozinc - as this is unbelievably not available in the UK (sort it out LRP), the gorgeous Amelia brought me enough back from Europe to survive Armageddon (THANK YOU!). Spraying zinc on top of your exfoliating toner stage gives you a little hydration before Hydraluron but more importantly for me its great for preventing breakouts. I toyed with the idea of linking to a picture saying 'WHY ISN'T THIS ON SALE IN THE UK YOU MUPPETS?' but thought it would be rude. Oh. My bad.  Also sidebar: the LRP has to be one of the most confusing/long websites out there. Please also fix that. Alrighty then.

Eysilix - still using this too. It's so easy, perfect texture, great packaging and helps my dark circles - which hardly any other eye cream does. 

Hydraluron - I'm changing this to 'Hironsluron' - still using it most days. Twice a day unless I'm going for an oil or balm in the evening.

Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair - I think this and the Goat Cream are the Holy Grail of KS's range. This takes 10 years off of my skin upon application. It is designed as a moisturiser but I use it as a serum underneath...

Kate Somerville Nourish Daily Moisturiser - I treat this as an overcoat. It goes on last on days I am dehydrated - which in this weather and after recovering from drinking alcohol (even a little) on a daily basis over Christmas - I am.

The Kate Somerville range is still unavailable in the UK. RUDE. Please also sort that.

I'm clearly feeling very bossy today.

*the above is a mixture or PR samples, purchases and gifts. All are fabulous.

No Affiliates.

Pixi Glow Tonic - a P50 dupe.

(old packaging - updated 2013)

I found this Glow Tonic at Pixi last week and my eyes immediately zoomed in on the ingredients. They are incredibly similar to P50 and I am really enjoying using it.

Pixi skincare is definitely no-frills, which I REALLY like. Anyone else sick of throwing away a heavy box that added £1.50 to the price of your product? I know I am.

Petra's sister Sofia trained as an aesthetician in Sweden to degree level, she was based in Stockholm and was a facialist with a little black book of Sweden's A list. She wanted to create a line that she could use in her bespoke facials in Stockholm.

Sofia wanted to develop a range for Pixi that was based around purely: simplicity and efficacy, the skincare is hand made in small batches and packaged simply and priced sensibly as she wanted to encourage people to use the best quality skincare at a price they could afford. (TOTAL WIN)

The skincare is 'spin' free, over 12 years old and still is hand labelled/filled and very much anti-hype. There are no added fragrance/colour/fillers, with some products that are AMAZING for even hyper sensitive skins. It is definitely a results-driven range.

The Glow Tonic is an oil-free, alcohol-free, gentle but astringent toner. Heavy in aloe vera, it also contains witchhazel to tone and firm, smooth the appearance of the skin and soften the texture. Ginseng is a natural supplier of oxygen to the cells and horse chestnut stimulates the skin and circulation. 

Glycolic loosens the excess accumulation of dead skin cells and thus exfoliates. It says for normal to dry and older skins but this will help all skin types in my opinion. 

You can use 2 x day as a toner - will help diminish signs of sun damage and reduce fine lines.

AND: it's £16.00. SIXTEEN POUNDS. For 250ml. 

And wait for it: I just called the store to fact check the price and Pixi is currently on a Buy One Get One Free promotion.  

What it DOES have in common with P50 is that it not available online - you need to call the store on 0207 287 7211 or email storemanager@pixibeauty.com for mail order.

Glow Tonic is available from www.pixibeauty.co.uk/skintreats

By far the BEST BOGOF offer I've seen in a long, long time. 

(product reformulated in 2013 - this is 2012 formula)

You should also check out their masks. I'm working my way through them and in light of the promotion will move them up the list to review!

* PR Sample, but I'm buying this offer. No affiliate links and I have no business links to Pixi.  Unfortunately ;)

P50 and a lack of oomph

So I knew my readers were on the ball - little did I realise just how much.

I bought a new bottle of P50 recently and being rather busy and basically a beat behind everyone else, whilst I thought it odd that I didn't get any sting on application, last night I remembered the smell.

If you've ever used the original P50 you'll know what I'm talking about. It smells. I personally love it - others didn't.

Whatever - it no longer smells. Meaning the formulation has changed. Which is no doubt why I no longer sting on application.

Le Grand Sigh.

WHY do brands faff with greatness? I don't know why or when (but I suspect the EU as per usual had something to do with it - interfering bastards) but the son of the original founders the Alloche's is over here next week. And I'm away. 

Le Grand Sigh.

So as I can't meet him this time I've asked the PR to give me the full spiel - which is no doubt more attractive to him than a 43 year old woman throwing herself around his ankles and screeching 'WHY???? WHY???'

Will keep you posted. *weeps gently*

P.S. - I know there are retailers that still sell the original in the US and abroad but I'm not linking to them until I know if the old version is available in the US (books flight) - or if they are simply selling excess OLD stock.

May in the life of the blog.

Amen.

Me, Mouldy Fruit and Priya Sonn hanging out with Kim K. Why? Because we could.

Kourtney and Khloe on their way to the launch. Why? Because we could. Muahahahahahaaa

Moonwalk

We were sodding freezing.

All that 'oh it was an amazing experience'...No. It wasn't. It nearly killed us. Next year I'm writing a fat cheque.

Where I spent nearly two hours after the Moonwalk.

Hardcore if you're feeling oily/congested. Like a cross between a cleanser and a clay mask.

Sorting. As always.

Fixing a bad reaction to a product.

LOVING the footie.

Adoring the animals. (Can't remember the source of this - sorry!)

Mental cat.

Amazing.

Luscious. 

Breakfast with Jo Malone.

Ah one of my babies meeting Mr Sheeran.

Loving the reminder of the Fun Lovin Criminals.

Word.

Loving Nars Easy Lover.

Brilliant DKNY marketing.

The boy.

The girl.

The cat. All enjoying the sun.

Feet in Kew. You know - when we had Summer for 4 days.

A rather ridiculously large tree.

The walkway. Utterly terrifying.

MORE skincare likes.

EF MEDISPA launch Biologique Recherche

Well thank the Sweet Baby Jesus for THAT. 

FINALLY. Someone has had the good sense to get BR into the UK!!!

I can exclusively reveal that EF Medispa in St Johns Wood is now stocking Biologique Recherché AND doing their facials. *faints*

What I don't know as of yet is if they will be stocking P50V - which is my preferred version and which the BORE-Ocrats in the EU had issues with - the crusty faced swines.

Needless to say I will be checking it out as soon as I possibly can and reporting back straight away, but let me just say this - yours truly couldn't be more excited if it involved Liverpool winning on Saturday, Simon Le Bon waiting on my doorstep and the Barefoot Contessa making me dinner.

EF Medispa

*If you don't follow me on twitter that last sentence will make absolutely no sense to you. WHATSOEVER. Apologies.

Cleanse, Tone & Moisturise - Me

I seem to always be talking about or recommending the same products recently so I thought I would mix it up a little - and take blatant advantage of my friends in the industry and fellow bloggers by asking them what THEY use to Cleanse, Tone and Moisturise. It will be either their all-time favourites or their current routine. And I'll be asking across all ages, ethnicities and skin types.

Before I get going with my guests choices, I thought I would, for the record, give you my Desert Island Three.

Cleanser

OK no surprises here. I know I recommend it to pretty much everyone - but I genuinely use it every single day and panic if I'm nearing the end of the pot without a replacement to hand. I won't go into detail because if you read this blog regularly you'll know it all.

Emma Hardie. End of.

Toner

One of my very first blog posts was about Biologique Recherche and the power of their P50.

In all honesty it's not a toner - the term 'toner' is just too outdated now - this is a surface exfoliating treatment (my words!) for prepping the skin to receive serums/moisturisers etc. So it's used at the toner stage, but to compare this to your typical 'toner' is like comparing a Rolls Royce to a rickshaw.

Moisturiser

OK I can't possibly pick one moisturiser for all-time. It's the one thing you need to change as regularly as your choice of coat and so for that reason I'm listing my current favourites for day and night.

Day:

Yes it's Doctor P again. The Hypoallergenic Nourishing Moisturiser is part of the new range for sensitive skin and I have to say - it rocks. The texture is thick and luxurious but it absorbs beautifully and leaves the skin comfortable, not greasy or tacky. Love.

Night:

I wasn't going to split it into two but I always - always use a different product at night and recently it's been this gorgeous oil from Vaishaly. In light of recent comments on the Clinic posts - it seems a lot of you are still very cautious about using an oil on an oily skin.  Please let me reassure you by saying: HOGWASH. This oil is specifically for Normal/Combination and I use it safely without it bringing up any cystic acne bumps.

It glides on beautifully, absorbs nicely and leaves the skin with an amazing glow. it also has that 'spa smell' that you only seem to get these days from facialist brands. Bliss.

Current Skincare Routine - January/February

I posted on Wednesday about the changes I have consciously made to my lifestyle, diet and skincare routine.

The upshot of it for me is that organic/natural has had to take a backstep. I still love my balms and oils but as treats. For day-to-day maintenance this is my current routine:

I'm starting with the evening because that is the most important stage to me:

P.M.
Start with dry skin!
1st cleanse with my staple: Emma Hardie
2nd cleanse with Perricone's Nutritive Cleanser.

This is new to me and I am LOVING it. Firstly, it smells of Johnson's Baby Powder (score!) and it feels really, really luxurious. This has helped my skin tremendously and I would like it on tap in my bathroom please. A little goes a long way.
I alternate this with Alpha-H's Balancing Cleanser - another recent find.

This leaves the skin really soft yet definitely cleansed...

Toner/tonic stage
Depending on the day I do one of two things:
Day One: I wipe over the skin with Alpha-H's Liquid Gold and then leave the skin bare for the night as directed.

Hard for me as I am ingrained with covering the skin with something afterwards but no! I am doing as I'm told! This is some serious stuff and has made a clear, definite difference to my skin.
Day Two: Either P50 or a standard toner depending on whether I feel dry or am flaring up.

Eye Cream - currently Alpha-H's Absolute Eye Complex 

On days I am not using Liquid Gold I apply toner and then go straight in with Perricone's Cold Plasma

 followed by their Face Finishing Moisturiser.

A.M.
Again start with dry skin.
Cleanse either with Nutritive Cleanser or Balancing Cleanser and a fresh hot cloth
Tone with a toner that suits my skin on the day. Can be anything from Guinot to Dr. Lewinns
Apply Cold Plasma
Apply Perricone's Face Firming Activiator

Again - new addition to my regime but loving it so far...
Apply Face Finishing Moisturiser on top.
Note the above 3 products are used in small quantities and leave the skin feeling soft and hydrated, not greasy and heavy.

Added extras: Vitamin E Serum from Alpha-H, Darphin Purifying Balm, Payot Speciale 5 Drying and Purifying Gel are all in rotation and I use them like a buffet - as and when I need them...

That's it. As you can see it's two things:

• hardcore - there is nothing organic/natural about my current routine - I still use all the natural products I have at home on my teenagers but for me, at the moment, bring on the chemicals...
• expensive - some of these products are not cheap. In fact they're borderline mortgage payments. But I'm telling you if they keep working the way they are at the moment it's worth it to me. I'll have to do without something else. Some people buy designer shoes/handbags/clothes, not me - skincare is my crack. And I can't just throw any old cream on my skin anymore and get away with it...

Other things that have helped me:

• keeping my skin hydrated with spray toners. Treating acne rosacea in any form is incredibly drying when you are used to big fat moisturisers and I have a decanted spray toner on my desk and two at home. It calms my redness. Soon as I feel that telltale 'heat' coming I spritz myself. Bliss.
• Going in with a second round of moisturiser after the first has absorbed. I make sure my face feels comfortable all the time.
• Cut down the spicy foods - sad but true. Jalapenos are a distant memory for me at the moment...

If you do have acne and/or rosacea and you want to just start with one thing? Go for the Liquid Gold. That has given me the biggest, quickest, noticable difference. And its not extortionate. You can currently get a supersize on QVC for around £33 which I will be ordering...

If anyone has any suggestions for anything that has really worked for them I would love to hear about them.

Will keep you posted on my progress.... Here's hoping...


Small print: I received the Perricone and Alpha-H products mentioned in goody bags at recent events. But I wouldn't recommend them if I didn't love them. And I will be purchasing off my own back when they run out. If I recommend something on this site it's because I recommend it - not because I've been paid to.