Charlotte Tilbury Scent of a Dream

A Charlotte Tilbury fragrance was always going to be interesting. I never know what to expect from a fragrance that doesn't come from a traditional 'nose', but this is beautiful. 

The Tilbury machine is able to stir up more frenzy around launches than any other I know, bar maybe Chanel - and this has been no different. Kate Moss is the face and honestly, I think this is the best I've seen her look.

Not gonna lie - it helps that they use one of my favourite songs in the video.

As to the fragrance itself? It didn't disappoint. The Mr walked in just after it had arrived and said 'OOH something smells nice in there...!'. That says it all. This is not a fragrance for days I'm doing facials. It's far too strong. This is a date night fragrance. Not for the faint-hearted. It would not be out of place in Guerlain. It's old-fashioned, but not dated. The bottle is classical, heavy.

Scent of a Dream sits in the Floral Chypre category:

Top Notes include:

LEMON, PEACH, BLACK PEPPER

Saffron, Mandarin, Bergamot

Heart/Middle:

TUBEROSE, JASMINE, FRANKINCENSE, HEDIONE, VIOLET

Muguet, Orange Flower, Rose Oil, Tea Rose, Green Ivy, Magnolia

'Psychoactive' base Notes:

The ‘pheromone’ notes are activated by body heat, lasting up to 9 hours – 

FIRE TREE, ISO E SUPER, PATCHOULI, AMBROXAN

Precious Woods, Cistus, Amber, Castoreum, Musks

I don't know about the pheromone story, I've heard it before. Molecule and Philosophy in particular, have been at it for years. Fragrance and your olfactory system incite memories, that's the joy of them for me. 

Scent of a Dream is sexy. It's heavy-hitting. It's bold. Whether or not it makes someone fancy you or not I don't know. Unless you look like Kate Moss obvs.

Scent of a Dream is priced between £49.00 and £96.00 and is available from Selfridges and CharlotteTilbury.com

Synthetic fragrance vs Natural fragrance

Fragrance in products causes a lot of concern among some of the beauty buying public. Most often in people with sensitive skins, but it is becoming more and more of a contentious issue across the board.

Having heard the words 'cell death' and 'cell toxicity' one too many times in scare-mongering marketing, and especially through websites like goop,  I approached three experts across various fields in the industry for their opinions on using much-maligned synthetic fragrance vs 'cell-death' essential oils when used in skincare - facial skincare in particular. It is by no means a clear issue, but their answers may surprise you, and make you rethink your future purchases.

From Dr Marko Lens, founder of Zelens:
'Synthetic fragrances contain chemicals that are not of a natural origin while natural fragrances contain ingredients only from a natural origin- basically a mixture of essential oils. Not all synthetic fragrances are bad and many of them contain essential oils. There has been a lot of negative publicity given to parabens, phthalates and synthetic musks used in synthetic fragrances. However, you can make a synthetic fragrance without these ingredients.
It is important to mention that synthetic fragrance does not necessarily cause more allergic reactions than natural fragrance. Both of them contain ingredients called allergens - substances that cause allergies. Almost all essential oils contain allergens and in my clinical practice I see more allergies due to the use of the mixtures of various essential oils than with the use of products containing synthetic fragrances.
Regarding fragrance and cytotoxicity (cell death): both synthetic and natural fragrances can be cytotoxic. However, I would be very careful when interpreting results from these tests since they are done in the lab using different types of human cells in vitro. For example, the product may be cytotoxic for human liver cells, but that does not mean it is the same for human dermal cells. Also, results of in vitro tests (petri dishes) ideally should be validated in vivo (on people).'

Lorna McKay - co-founder of The Perfume Society and a consultant to leading fragrance houses:
'It is not that one is better than the other, rather the "combination " often allows the perfumer to create longer lasting and more complex smells. Some of the great masterpieces e.g. Chanel No 5 and CK one would not exist without synthetic ingredients. In some instances we are "helping save the planet" by using synthetics.
Essential oils can be potent and should be used with care. Some need to be diluted and some react if not used carefully. e.g.  citrus oils in the sun can cause a reaction. Some essential oils are dangerous for pregnant women and babies. I believe essential oils have fantastic qualities but should be used with knowledge and caution. Just because it is natural it is not always good!'

Sam Farmer -founder of the Sam Farmer brand and a trained Cosmetic Scientist, Sam approached his group of friends at the SCS (Society of Cosmetic Scientists) who came back unanimously in favour of synthetic fragrance or a combination of synthetic/essential oil mix.
'Naturals are far higher in allergenic compounds such as limonene, citral, cinnamyl alcohol, geraniol and eugenol just to mention a few. In fact, more than half of the allergens that need to be listed in the INCI list are naturals.
Using synthetics allows for a wider number of fragrance components so, you can argue, they are better as the risk is spread, so to speak.
Also, from a sustainability angle, fragrance from rare or protected raw materials, such as Sandalwood, can be reproduced without the risk of extinction!
As an aside, the SCS also stated unequivocally that it would be 'impossible' to create all of the top fragrances in the world without synthetics.

Bottom line? If you use skincare with no issues then you are probably not intolerant of either synthetic or natural fragrance. Crack on. If however, you know you have sensitivities, or you're overly worried about fragrance in your skincare look for fragrance-free, if you do not already do so.
I flag up the presence of synthetic fragrance and essential oils in reviews for your information as a purchasing customer, not to instil fear. Synthetic fragrance goes through stringent testing, despite what certain websites would have you believe.

Do bear in mind, natural is not always better.

Further reading if you are interested:

Dweck Data - www.dweckdata.com

Society of Cosmetic Scientists - www.scs.org.uk

Whatever you do, for the love of sanity, don't listen to goop and take the EWG with a pinch of salt.

Michael Kors Gold Collection

I've had a love affair with Mr Kors for a long time. As I mentioned recently on my Instagram, I was a bag, wallet and watch girl long before he did THIS:



Which, of course, sealed the deal. Let's not all pretend you don't think Girls on Film isn't the best song ever made for ads, you know it is. *is literally playing Duran Duran on a loop now*

ANYWAY: these three fragrances are the latest addition to the Kors stable and do not disappoint for fans of the originals.

White Luminous Gold is pear/jasmine/amber.
Rose Radiant Gold is spice/floral/musk.
24k Brilliant Gold is mandarin/floral/woody.

All are exactly as you would expect, with satisfying, ridiculously heavy packaging.

Available now from Escentual.com priced from £39.00 - £79.00.



I'll be the one in the corner smelling fabulous dancing to Duran. Forever.

Jo Malone London Lace Bottle Collection

Jo Malone has long offered a brides service - a complimentary appointment to find your own bespoke fragrance for the big day. As my own 'big' day was 21 years ago (OMG) there's not much joy in that for me. I can, however, indulge in the new Lace Bottle Collection, which hits counters in May. 

Available in three different designs, two ivory and one black - the fragrances can be ordered in ten of the most popular scents: Peony & Blush Suede, Orange Blossom, Red Roses, English Pear & Freesia, Lime Basil & Mandarin, Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Wild Bluebell, Pomegranate Noir and my two personal favourites, Velvet Rose & Oud and Dark Amber & Ginger Lily.

The go-to scent for a lot of brides seems to be Orange Blossom mixed with a complimenting fragrance. I've never been a big fan of citrus fragrances, I've always gone down the white floral or heavier amber roads.

The Dark Amber & Ginger Lily is a perfect blend of two of my favourite scents in one - so it's a pretty obvious choice for me. I know it's the same product wrapped up in different packaging, in essence that's what most new design/limited editions are - The only problem I have with limited editions is actually using them - I know you can always keep the bottles when they're empty but just like with the Charlotte Tilbury Limited Editions from last week, part of me feels like they should be 'saved'. Although God only knows for what, if I don't use them, Ava will - or the kids will just flog my Limited Editions when I'm dead...*gives up, sprays self to death, opens all the compacts*

However, the Jo Malone London Lace Bottle Collection is not limited edition - it's a permanent addition to the range - and it goes on sale in May, priced £86 for 100ml or £105 for the Cologne Intense Bottles and is available in all of the free standing boutiques. www.jomalone.co.uk

Jo Malone London Tuberose Angelica and Velvet Rose & Oud Candle

When I was in California in February I approached what appeared to be, from a distance and without my glasses, a bunch of white stocks from a flower stall outside Whole Foods. As I got closer, my favourite smell in the world literally rose up to smack me in the nose. I had never seen huge bunches of tuberose before (not much call for them in Fulham sadly) - but here, there were bunches of them everywhere - and for $5.00. FIVE dollars. I was borderline hyperventilating I kid you not. 

White flowers have always, effortlessly, been my favourite flowers. They smell so much stronger than coloured flowers because they have to work that much harder to attract the bees - and in that, they become heady, lush and borderline overpowering for some..

Gardenias, frangipane, white delphiniums, roses, hydrangeas and tuberose - the Queen of the white florals. 

It was only in my later years that I realised that most of my favourite fragrances were based around tuberose and gardenia - Fracas, Petit Fracas, Estee Lauder's Tuberose Gardenia, Diptyque's Doson, Anick Goutal's Gardenia Passion - It's also the reason why I didn't mind saying I liked Madonna's Truth or Dare and Kim Kardashian's fragrance. 

So, I was most displeased (fuming) when Jo Malone discontinued Vintage Gardenia. They have though, redeemed themselves in style. Tuberose Angelica is a welcome new addition to the Cologne Intense Collection - and brings my tally to 5 that I love and wear on a regular basis. (I am always, always stopped when I wear Rose Water and Vanilla - in a good way!)

Tuberose Angelica is pretty simple in its formulation being angelica as a top note, tuberose at the heart and amberwood on the drydown. It's a really beautiful fragrance - so much so that when I was walking down Sloane Street last Thursday I was drawn into the store by the beautiful window display - and doused myself in it again just for good measure. You could literally smell me before you saw me after that. Ne'ermind.

And being the beast that is Jo Malone - I feasted my eyes on this beauty while I was there...

Having seen this picture on Instagram from Laura I had the 'black candles' in my head all week and so gave in and treated myself. It's all her fault. Damn you Jo Malone. Damn. You.

The fantabulous Tuberose Angelica is £100.00 and the excruciatingly sexy Velvet Rose & Oud Candle is £45.00 - both are available at all Jo Malone stockists and at www.jomalone.co.uk.

Linda Evangelista for Loewe

Loewe have just announced that Linda Evangelista is their new face for their fragrance launching in September. I have no idea what it will smell like but isn't it nice to have on of the original Supermodels as a face instead of a 20 year old?

Just a thought.....

Loewe Perfumes

pureDKNY A Drop of Rose and a possible dupe for Chantecaille's Darby Rose

So DKNY have a new addition to their 'pure' line. A Drop of Rose follows A Drop of Vanilla and A Drop of Verbena.

And it has a lovely back story about the amount of rose petals picked to make the oil and how they are picked pre-dawn etc etc..

But I stopped reading that when I smelt it. It's the closest I've come across yet to the now impossible-to-find-deleted-from-range-we-all-cried-when-it-went Chantecaille Darby Rose.

By far the best Rose fragrance I've ever used - this went out of circulation around 10 years ago (?? was it REALLY that long? *cries*) and left a lot of users bereft.

This is not exactly like it - the DKNY rose is Turkish for starters, not from Grasse - but to the average non-expert whiffer (it SO is a word) - its a good close second. So much so that I'm putting it away and saving it for Spring when I will bring out my very last teeny tiny pot of the Darby Rose body cream. 

Unless you're Persolaise, Candy Perfume Boy or Basenotes - you'd never know. Ish.

pureDKNY A Drop of Rose launches 3rd February. Prices start at £37.00

MARNI fragrance launch

This February sees the launch of the Marni fragrance collection. I'm enjoying fragrance much more these days and I have to say I am pleasantly surprised by this. I genuinely really like it.

It's not what I was expecting at all. It is made up as per below:

Top:

Bergamot

Pepper

Ginger

Pink Peppercorn      

Heart:

Cardamom

Rose

Cinnamon Bark 

Bottom: 

Patchouli

Incense

Vetiver

Cedarwood

Personally I really pick up the pink peppercorn, ginger, rose and the woody dry-down with the addition of vetiver is divine.

The Marni Collection launches at Harrods in February and the Eau de Parfum starts from £48.00

2012 Awards. Best Fragrance Launches. Jo Malone, Robert Piguet and Michael Kors.

I have had a bit of a love affair with fragrance this year. There was no choosing between these three. All of which I have worn consistently since receiving them. Sometimes together. First up - and this is in order of their release only - like I say, I can't pick..

is Jo Malone Velvet Rose and Oud. I absolutely love this - a very welcome addition to the Cologne Collection, it started life as a Limited Edition but very quickly became a must-have in the permanent range.
Smoky oud, Damask roses and a little clove and praline.  Beautiful.

Next up is Petit Fracas. A subtle take on the original iconic Fracas. Predictably for me, this is a jasmine, tuberose and gardenia heart over a musk and sandalwood base. Softer than the original but still strong enough to pack a punch, I have worn this almost every day since I came across it.

Bringing up the rear but by no means last is Michael Kors Rose Gold. This new release is a blend of pink pepper, waterlily, raspberry, peony, gardenia and yes - obviously - tuberose.

Its heavy, but not too heavy - and really soft once settled. Again - almost daily usage since it launched. This one is Limited Edition - get it while you can.

Jo Malone Velvet Rose And Oud is available here for £95.00.

Petit Fracas by Roger Piguet is available here priced £130.00

Michael Kors Rose Gold is available here priced £75.00

Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia

Last month I was lucky enough to be invited to the British Museum to watch Estee Lauder Companies turn it pink for Breast Cancer Awareness month. Whilst there I was completely distracted by their lovely PR Georgie who smelled out of this world. I suppose this would be an appropriate forum to apologise for walking up to her and sniffing her like Gomez Addams all evening. *sorry Georgie*

I rarely respond to fragrances this strongly - but I love tuberose - and I adore gardenia - so it was a bit of a a no-brainer really. And I hate to be predictable but it is in a carnation and vanilla bourbon base - also things I am more than happy to cover myself in. It does list neroli and orangeflower extract in the notes - none of which I am happy to report - my nose picks up. I can't bear smelling like fruit - I prefer to eat it.

Following in the tradition of Estee's first Private Collection released in 1973 - Tuberose Gardenia was created by Aerin Lauder for her friends. 

If you like strong florals, gardenia or tuberose you have to try this fragrance. It is divine. It's a heavy enough floral to warrant wearing it throughout the year - not just for summer.

Failing that you could just find an Estee Lauder PR to follow around all day like a sniffer dog.

Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia is available here and at Estee Lauder counters nationwide priced from £59.00.

*pr sample - poor Georgie.

James Bond Day and all things Gold.

Safe to say I'm a bit of a Bond nut. As in: obsessive. As in: Mastermind subject material. Months ago I was invited to the launch at the amazing Bond Exhibition in the Barbican. And then life got in the way and suddenly its October.

Still, everything happens for a reason and today is officially James Bond Day - and 50 years since the release of Dr No (not my favourite film).

Since the original fragrance sold out in Harrods - this new Gold version has been released just in time to celebrate all things Bond.

In all fairness, I like the smell - its not cheap (to me) smelling and certainly holds its own in its category. I can't say any further as it was stolen taken by son no.2 as soon as it arrived in the house. He smells nice. What can I tell you?

Its at Harrods at the moment and Nationwide from November 1st. Il est parfait pour Noel!!!!

Whilst we're waiting for Skyfall at the end of this month - here is a reminder of the greatness of the best Bond ever.

007 fragrance can be found here.

Acqua di Parma launch Iris Nobile Sublime

Last week I was invited to the launch of the latest Acqua di Parma fragrance, Iris Nobile Sublime. 

This new addition to the range was showcased at the Arts Club in Dover Street and was a beautiful appropriate setting for an elegant scent.

There are fragrance bloggers who will no doubt have in-depth intelligent ramblings about the notes, the dry off and the history. 

Not me. Clearly. I can talk about pores, masseter muscles and skincare at any level - but I love ADP because it reminds me of my first job in beauty in Harvey Nichols in the 90's. Fragrance is all about memories for me - and I love nearly every one that ADP has made (I can give the Blu Mediterraneo a miss). 

But for those of you that DO want a little more detail - this has top notes of Italian Neroli, Italian Mandarin and Ylang Ylang....

Middle notes featuring absolutes of Italian Orange Flower, Rose Centifolia, Jasmine Sambac and of course, Italian Iris Pallida...

and base notes of Patchouli essence, Musk, Cedar and Birch Wood and Acacia Wood Accord.

For a far more eloquent review I highly recommend you head over to my friend Katie Chutzpah's site. If we were on twitter I would say ----> what she said.

Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Sublime launches exclusively in House of Fraser stores in August and is priced £82.00 for 75ml. It is available nationwide from September.

Fortnum & Mason Summer Scents aka Private Perfume Party - Tuesday 29th May

I watched an interview with Michael Winner over the weekend where he said that the English were on the whole, dreadful at Customer Service. He was referring to restaurants in particular - you know - the allegedly upmarket ones where you are greeted not with 'Good Morning Sir/Madam', but 'Have you got a reservation?' 

In Winner's words, 'What's THAT got to do with anything?'

In department store terms the same thing occurs. There are certain stores in Central London where you are greeted by a security guard giving you the once over.

And then there is Fortnum & Mason. *insert audible sigh* I love F&M. Yes there are other wonderful stores in London. But here, the staff are the best dressed and the most polite in town - and no apologies from me on that score. Customer Service I KNOW. 

F&M are unbeatable.

I have regular business meetings in the Fountain and the Parlour (waves to Alex), both busy, both with amazing service and delicious food. I have digressed completely - but if you have never been - and think of it as the home of tea and jam and biscuits and her Maj, think again. Do yourself a favour. Go.

*inserts totally gratuitous picture of one of the Treatment Rooms - more of which to come at a later date*

If you happen to be around next Tuesday 29th, Fortnums are holding an amazing evening of perfumes, discovery and interaction that is a must for fragrance lovers.

With Brand Ambassadors from Creed, Caron, Guerlain, Clive Christian (go smell 'X' *dies*), Illuminum (Kate Middleton's fragrance of choice on her wedding day) and an appearance from Azagury himself, it promises to be an eventful evening.

For those in attendance there is also the little matter of this hamper full of fragrance and worth over £1000 up for grabs. 

(Apologies for the picture - I fired it off today after a meeting - and the ginormous Guerlain bottle is display - calm down!)

Fortnums, fragrance, champagne, hampers. Oh to be an Englishmanwoman  in the Summertime.

Tickets are priced £15.00 and are available by calling 0845 602 5694.

Kim Kardashian True Reflection Launch

Sometimes you need a little fun. When Kim Kardashian rolled in to town last week to launch her latest fragrance 'True Reflection', I was invited to the launch party and figured it would be 'an experience'. That it was.
A word on the fragrance - The Kardashians are not stupid. Givaudan are behind their fragrances and that is what genuinely sets them apart from other 'celeb' fragrances. They actually smell quite lovely - as in 'you would really wear them' lovely. In short, if I was making a fragrance, I would probably go to Givaudan first.  This is gardenia-heavy. So for me, a winner.

The event was a little packed and a lot hot - and the view was restricted. By the time she arrived, the surge forward, along with her 'petite' (very small) height meant we couldn't see anything.
So I climbed on to a sofa (as you do) to have a gander and it was at this point that I turned to Priya and Zara and said 'What the F**K am I DOING?? I'm a 42 year old woman. JESUS CHRIST.'
Anyway. We soon pushed everyone else out of the way because I'm 5'11 made our way to the VIP area where we met the lady herself.

Very sweet, extremely small and with a face full of make up that she didn't need (I did a full on skin inspection while she was saying something about flowers and fragrance - as you do) - she was very polite. She seemed as if she was just going through the motions to be honest but if I was plonked in a room full of people standing on sofas to get a look of you I'd probably be over it too.
She did, however, respond very graciously to my request for a quick head shot to send to my daughter who was at a sleepover and not happy that Mummy was meeting KK without her.

So: good quality fragrance that I am actually wearing, a picture for the babygirl who quickly became the star of the sleepover - and a Wagamama's with this lot:

When bloggers go wrong.

Score.
True Reflection is available at Debenhams now and launches nationwide in June.
£30.00/50ml
£40.00/100ml
*very obviously a PR sample
*non-affiliate link

Jo Malone Velvet Rose & Oud - Cologne Intense

I wasn't surprised when Jo Malone originally released the Cologne Intense range in 2010. In a way it was more 'What took them so long?'.

Every Spring, London - and London retail - is inundated by visitors from the Middle East escaping the intense heat for somewhere more amenable. I've blogged about Arab Season before - this range was without doubt designed with the Middle East in mind. My favourite of the existing range is the beautiful Rose Water and Vanilla.

Well, that may all change - this arrived this morning- and my GOD is it good.

Velvet Rose & Oud is on counter in June as a Limited Edition to the range. Damask Rose, Oud, Clove and Praline come together to give the most intense, sultry fragrance that in my opinion, JML have done so far. As per the ethos of JML, they give various scenarios for combining with other fragrances - but this, to my mind, is perfect on its own.

Available June 2012 priced £95.00 from all Jo Malone stockists.

*PR Sample

Best of 2011 - Fragrance

Pretty clear winner for me this year. Guerlain's Shalimar Initial is a gorgeous take on the original. Lighter, fresher and cleaner. A wonderful modern version of a true classic.

An easy winner.

New Fragrance for 2012 - Vivienne Westwood and Vera Wang

Last week I had a sneak preview of new fragrances for Valentine's Day - the two stand out ones for me being Cheeky Alice from Vivienne Westwood and Vera Wang's Princess Night.

Cheeky Alice is a follow-on from Naughty Alice and although is made of lily of the valley, rose and peony has a definite undercurrent of something altogether sexier and heavier. Perfect for Spring.
Prices start at £32.00 and it is on counter 1st February 2012.
I was working in Harvey Nichols when the original Westwood fragrance launched. Amongst the madness of queues a lovely Japanese gentleman approached me and said 'Excuse me - you have Vagina Westwing?!' Haven't looked at her the same way since.

Being unable to afford a Vera Wang dress I'll have to settle for a fragrance - which on reflection, is what clever marketing teams hope we all do with every launch. And also why famous faces make more money from fragrance than anything else.
That aside, I LOVE this fragrance. Its like a spicy fruit compote (and you thought I couldn't review fragrance! Pah!) with raspberry, watermelon, jasmine, spicy orange and the two killers - musk and vanilla. And a word about the bottle - completely encrusted and heavyheavyheavy. Love.
Prices start at £32.00 and it's on counter from 11th January.