Showing posts with label Hylamide. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hylamide. Show all posts

Tuesday, 9 June 2015

Hylamide SubQ Eyes


What is it?
An eye cream/serum

Who is it for?
Anyone with visible signs of ageing in the eye area that they would like to part company with.

What’s in it?
aqua (water), propanediol, perfluorodecalin, glycerin, perfluorohexane, aminobutyric acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, adipic acid/neopentylglycol crosspolymer, nylon-12 fluorescent brightener 230 salt, albiziajulibrissin bark extract, polyvinyl alcohol crosspolymer, myristoylnonapeptide-3, dipeptidediaminobutyroylbenzylamide diacetate, hydroxyethylacrylate/sodiumacryloyldimethyl tauratecopolymer, fucusvesiculosus extract, vp/vacopolymer, dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer, polyacrylatecrosspolymer-6, epigallocatechin gallatylglucoside, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, isohexadecane, gallyl glucoside, propylgallate, polysorbate 60, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, amodimethicone, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, benzyl alcohol, pentylene glycol, xanthan gum, darutoside, dehydroacetic acid, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol
(Lifted from the website - clearly some spacing between words needed along the way chaps! I fixed what I can.)

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?
Not that I can see, but have you seen those ingredient names? Who would know outside of a lab? :)

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?
Man-made

Tested on animals/sold in China?
No/No

What's not in it?
mineral oil
parabens
bismuth oxychloride

How do you use it?
Apply Am and PM after toning


What’s good about it?
Extremely light, immediately hydrating and a little goes a long way. Loaded with peptides, retinol and a ton of other actives, this is an excellent product, the price of which, moves it into the 'must-have' category. Whilst it hasn't miraculously lifted my hound dog eyelids - it's a serum, not a plastic surgeon - it has made a difference to the overall appearance of my eyes - including the dark circles.

What’s not so good about it?
In my last post about a Deciem product, I mentioned how disgruntled I was about the dropper/bottle packaging. Not long after that was posted, I heard from Brandon Truaxe, the founder of Deciem. Brandon wrote me a long email explaining the packaging choice - some of which I am reprinting for you below - with his permission - obvs:

'The biggest formulation nightmare is always the same: your skin likes oil and repels water (contrary to popular belief). Since almost all good technologies are water soluble, for a serum to be truly absorbed into the skin (very different to below the skin in the comparison you made to injections), you need very good delivery mechanisms (and they really really do exist today) and these systems generally yield very thin liquid formulations when in water-only formulations. 

Most premium products (or most products really) offer emulsions of oil and water (creams, emulsion "serums", etc.) to simply offer a thicker, richer formula that "feels" more effective and lovely but, as importantly, opens the door to any type of packaging you wish to have but this viscosity adjustment does nothing other than impede absorption of water technologies in any formula. It's simple: If you feel something on your skin, less got in. 

When you avoid such systems, you're left with highly liquid formulas. With such low viscosities, airless pumps are definitely the wrong choice as the pressure causes a harsh spurt to come out and splash in your hand. Regular air (pump) systems have the same problem to a lesser extent. The other alternative is truly very narrow nozzle tubes which waste about 15% of the product that cannot get out at the end. Please believe me. We were not being cheap. Those simple glass bottles and droppers with a label cost about 50% more than the most sophisticated airless bottles. I am sure there will be a solution soon in the world. It's just not obvious today. 

As a result of this position, our most complex formulations in Hylamide, NIOD and WhiteRx are in dropper systems. We really were not trying to look apothecary or cheap. The alternatives were simply more problematic and I didn't want to sacrifice the formula.'

So that's me told. :) Although it's worth mentioning that my favourite Zelens serums are extremely 'high liquid' serums - they feel almost like water - and they are in a pump that works without splashing. Still, I have huge respect for someone that goes to such lengths to explain their reasoning without being defensive or aggressive. Thanks Brandon.

Similar products?
For this much active ingredient busyness and this good a price point? No, frankly. Eye creams have long been more expensive than their 'face' counterparts, annoyingly so in a lot of cases. This goes some way to bringing them back into the real world.

Exchange rate – does it punish the UK?
No. Deciem products are based in Canada but generally launched in the UK as the lead market and so priced accordingly. 

The Hylamide SubQ Eyes is £27.00 and available from Hylamide.com and Boots.

Deciem - the parent company that is also responsible for my favourite Grow Gorgeous hair products - are doing things differently and stirring up the way beauty is sold, talked about and ranged. It's so worth checking out their website here: deciem.com



Friday, 8 May 2015

Deciem Hylamide SubQ Anti-Age


What is it?
'A highly active concentrate of advanced hyaluronic complexes, next-generation peptides and biotechnological technologies to target rehydration on and below skin surface, while visibly improving lines, wrinkles, sagging skin and textural damage.'

Who is it for?
Everyone. Especially those with signs of ageing, problems with dryness and dehydration.

What’s in it?
aqua (water), glycerin, ethoxydiglycol, hydrolyzedyeast extract, sodiumhyaluronate crosspolymer, pentylene glycol, tamarindus indica seed gum, pseudoalteromonas fermentextract, hydrolyzed sodiumhyaluronate, sodiumhyaluronate, polyacrylatecrosspolymer-6, trisodiumethylenediamine disuccinate, lactobacillus/eriodictyoncalifornicum fermentextract, saccharideisomerate, copperlysinate/prolinate, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, myristoyl nonapeptide-3, ahnfeltia concinna extract, ethylhexylglycerin, methylglucoside phosphate, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcyclodextrin, polyglucuronic acid, hexylene glycol, salicylic acid, lecithin, phospholipids, caprylyl glycol, sodiumhydroxide, citric acid, potassium sorbate, sodiumbenzoate, sodium citrate, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, leuconostoc/radish rootferment filtrate.

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?
Nope.

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?
Most definitely man made and vegan.

Tested on animals/sold in China?
No/No

What's not in it?
Mineral oil
Fragrance

How do you use it?
Serum stage. After toning, before moisturiser.

What’s good about it?
This is an excellent serum. Despite its claims of penetrating deeper than ever before, you can't reinvent the wheel. Nothing penetrates that deep without a needle. You can, however, make your delivery system the best it can be and this certainly does that. 
Hylamide instantaneously hydrates for the immediate gratification effect, yet skin still feels hydrated at the end of the day. 
Contains 5 forms of hyaluronic acid of differing molecular weights to target all areas of dehydration/dryness including fine lines and surface dehydration - the two most visible. Matrixyl Synthe 6 is an updated version of the Matrixyl peptide, used widely in skincare to help boost collagen and support existing collagen, and copper lysinate/prolinate to aid penetration, enhance stability and again, aid collagen support and production. 
It's a hefty serum without a hefty price tag. However, I would have rather they added a fiver to the cost and changed the packaging.......

What’s not so good about it?
If you really are 'next-generation' you might want to stop using 1920's apothecary packaging. 
The eye product is even worse. The product is really good, but it's too runny to be in a dropper. Where you want to use a couple of drops you end up with enough to use around your eyes, lips and elbows if you're even a little heavy-handed. Sorry Deciem. 

*Update
I received the below from Brandon, the owner of Deciem shortly after this review went up. As always, I'm happy to give brands a response to any post on here and Brandon's was very interesting:
'The biggest formulation nightmare is always the same: your skin likes oil and repels water (contrary to popular belief). Since almost all good technologies are water soluble, for a serum to be truly absorbed into the skin (very different to below the skin in the comparison you made to injections), you need very good delivery mechanisms (and they really really do exist today) and these systems generally yield very thin liquid formulations when in water-only formulations. 
Most premium products (or most products really) offer emulsions of oil and water (creams, emulsion "serums", etc.) to simply offer a thicker, richer formula that "feels" more effective and lovely but, as importantly, opens the door to any type of packaging you wish to have but this viscosity adjustment does nothing other than impede absorption of water technologies in any formula. It's simple: If you feel something on your skin, less got in. 
When you avoid such systems, you're left with highly liquid formulas. With such low viscosities, airless pumps are definitely the wrong choice as the pressure causes a harsh spurt to come out and splash in your hand. Regular air (pump) systems have the same problem to a lesser extent. The other alternative is truly very narrow nozzle tubes which waste about 15% of the product that cannot get out at the end. Please believe me. We were not being cheap. Those simple glass bottles and droppers with a label cost about 50% more than the most sophisticated airless bottles. I am sure there will be a solution soon in the world. It's just not obvious today. 
As a result of this position, our most complex formulations in Hylamide, NIOD and WhiteRx are in dropper systems. We really were not trying to look apothecary or cheap. The alternatives were simply more problematic and I didn't want to sacrifice the formula.'

Thanks Brandon. Isn't it great when brands take the time to make their point/case clear?

Similar products?
Not really. This is quite unique. It matches up to most collagen-led serums on the market, is more affordable and does work. If you can get past the packaging, it's brilliant. 

Exchange rate – does it punish the UK?
No. Deciem tends to launch their products here so we lead the way.




Hylamide is a very good product for £30.00 and is available here: www.hylamide.com and from Boots.