FAQs - Explanation/Apologies

This is a strange one but I need to put it all somewhere and the blog is my Home Ground so figured it was the best way to reach everyone.

January was the biggest month ever on the blog. Insane amounts of you read the blog, subscribed to my YT channel, followed me into toilets, asked me questions on social media.

The amount of comments and requests for help that I am receiving is beyond overwhelming. This is by no means a complaint - at ALL - I love blogging and love that you read it, I just have guilt that I cannot reply to so many people. I'm sorryyyyy! I'm one person.

So a quick low-down of what's what:

Facebook. I do not have a Facebook page for the blog. Sorry but I don't see the point. I have the blog. Something else to look after would be 'migraine central'. I have a private FB that is just for family and people I know IRL. I currently have around 500+ friend requests from people I don't know. There are 50+ requests from help in the 'Other' messages part of Facebook asking for help with skin problems.

Twitter. I reply when I can but it's hit and miss.

Email. There are new requests for help in all of my email accounts every morning.   

YouTube. I had no idea that private messages were a 'thing', until I found a ton of them by accident. I don't know how many there are because I panicked and went back to the normal comments. Sorry! I try and keep as up to date as possible with YT comments but I'm usually a week or so behind per video - if that makes sense.

Google Plus. I have absolutely NO idea how Google Plus works. None. It's like 'How do airplanes take off?' and 'Why don't ships sink?' I don't know. Clueless. If you've tried to talk to me via G+ I apologise profusely because it's still out there somewhere in the ether...

Tumblr. I have it, because I figured it may come in handy, but I literally do nothing with it except send it my Instagram feed. If you've talked to me via Tumblr - sorry. Again.

Pinterest. Love it, but can't spend too much time on it because it's like a black hole. If you've tried to talk to me via Pinterest.... GAH! Sorry. AGAIN.

Instagram. Easily my favourite, which means I spend most of my time there. If you leave a comment there it has more chance of being answered than anywhere else (along with the blog).I usually go back through the photographs and reply to as many as possible when I'm waiting around during public transport trips. :) But: I receive roughly 50 private message requests a week. I couldn't reply to you all if I tried.

Appointments. I have no appointments planned at the moment. I'm working on other things. Exciting things, but other things.

Like I said, no complaints at all, I have always been and still am incredibly grateful to you all for reading the blog and watching YouTube, just please please please don't think I am ignoring you. I just don't have the time to reply to you all. Sometimes I read a comment that says 'I would have expected you to reply to me by now!' and I'm all

I'M SO SORRY ERMAGHERDDD.

If, however, you do see me around in town, usually on beauty counters (my happy place), PLEASE stop me and ask me anything. Please.

I hope to have the capabilities to respond to a lot more people later in the year, but for now, please bear with!

And in case it was unclear, thank you. really. Thank you. Even those of you abusing me for not replying to you. You make me try harder.

Cheat Sheet/FAQs - Where should I spend most of my money in my routine?

I am frequently asked by readers - especially on Instagram - underneath these kinds of pictures: 'If I am being careful with my money, where should I spend the most in my routine?'

The answer is always, always serums. I touched on this briefly in one of my Beauty Myth posts a while back, but thought it would be helpful to go into more depth.

The rise of serums has definitely, in my opinion, bumped moisturisers off of the top spot - although they were never my No.1 - more the prevailing thought of the industry.

This could be a typical 'runny' serum like the Estee Lauder one in the picture above (although to be fair the price of the one above is far from 'typical'), a more cream-like texture, such as Kate Somerville's Deep Tissue Repair, or Good Genes by Sunday Riley, technically a treatment used at the 'serum' stage.

If I was listing my priorities in terms of £$£$ spend it would look like this:

Over 35/40:

1. Serum/Treatments. Needs better technology, uses high performing ingredients that aren't always cheap. You expect the most of your serum. And within this I would include all overnight retinol treatments, hydrating boosters, anti-ageing peptide serums - anything runny that you use underneath a moisturiser or oil.
2. Exfoliating acids. The best ones are more £$£ and at our age we need them. Think P50, Dennis Gross, Peter Thomas Roth, Kate Somerville, Zelens etc
3. Dedicated Night cream/product. As above. Over 40 skins need more peptides, retinols etc - they aren't cheap.
4. Cleanser. Good balm cleansers can be found for under £20, but the ones I like are typically more than that. So sue me.
5. Facial Oil. Yes you can get base oils cheaply but there is a world of difference in my mind between a basic 'face oil' and a sophisticated one made by the likes of doctors, facialists and the Queens of all things face oil, french dedicated salon brands. 
6. SPF. A good, dedicated SPF is not extortionate.
7. Moisturiser - normal/day. Just a good coat. Think hydration and protection, not the second coming of Jesus.
8. Eye Creams. I can get by with a cheaper eye cream because I use my serum around the eye area (all of them, pretty much). And frankly, have you seen my lids? I suffer genetically from droopy eyelids and dark circles because I'm anaemic. I'd be throwing money away paying £200 for an eye cream that I know in my heart won't work. I need one for hydration to plump up fine lines. That'll do.
9. Face masks. If they're hydrating, they're predominantly glycerin and hyaluronic acid, not expensive to make.
10. Scrubs. Not expensive to make. Not sophisticated technology.
11. Clay masks. I could pop to a beauty supply store, buy a bag of clay and some magnesium, mix it with the water below and it would cost around 20p per portion. If that.
12. Floral water/Spritz. It's water.

Ages 20-35/40:

1. Serum. Exactly as per above. 
2. Dedicated Night Cream. Emulsions/moisturisers are still fundamentally more expensive to make than cleansers/toners - and if you're under 40 you can still prevent and repair damage before it's too late. :)
3. Facial oils. Again, there is a world of difference between cheap and mid-range.
4. Cleansers. Under £30 - even under £25 and you are sorted.
5. Exfoliating acids. First Aid Pads, Pixi Glow Tonic - both around or under £20. However, if you are closer to 40 I would bump you into the section above.
6. SPF. Not extortionate. Think Anthelios.
   
   Everything else is the same as above......
7. Moisturiser. See Jesus comment in the Over 40 section above.
8. Eye Creams. I can get by with a cheaper eye cream because I use my serum around the eye area (all of them, pretty much). And frankly, have you seen my lids? I suffer genetically from droopy eyelids and dark circles because I'm anaemic. I'd be throwing money away paying £200 for an eye cream that I know in my heart won't work. I need one for hydration to plump up fine lines. That'll do.
9. Face masks. If they're hydrating, they're predominantly glycerin and hyaluronic acid, not expensive to make.
10. Scrubs. Not expensive to make. Not sophisticated technology.
11. Clay masks. I could pop to a beauty supply store, buy a bag of clay and some magnesium, mix it with the water below and it would cost around 20p. If that.
12. Floral water/Spritz. It's water.

Under 20 - teens:

1. Moisturiser. Younger people tend to rage more havoc on their skin through their lifestyle - because they can. They need more protection. You're also lazier with your routine (no hate, just an observation and experience!) because unless you have a particular concern, you can be. If you're only going to wash your face and slap one thing on, it should be a moisturiser. I would still recommend a separate SPF though.
2. Serum. When I did my FAQs on teenage skin, a few of you mentioned that you either want to use a serum or have a skin condition that would benefit from it such as acne/dehydratyion. If you do want to use a serum they still need to be fairly ££, just not extortionate!
3. Exfoliating acids. First Aid Pads, Pixi Glow Tonic - both around or under £20.
4. SPF. You have youthful, bouncy skin, keep it that way.
5. Cleanser. Get into good cleansing habits at this age and you'll be set for life skincare-wise. I promise.
6. Night cream. Using a dedicated moisturiser for the evening is beneficial if you have particular skin conditions. If you have budget concerns, use a non-spf moisturiser and you can just buy one and use it day and night. (Just don't forget your separate SPF.)
7. Facial oil. Really cheap ones just aren't as good. 
8. Eye Creams. Not essential and use your serum if budget is an issue.
9. Face masks. If they're hydrating, they're predominantly glycerin and hyaluronic acid, not expensive to make.
10. Scrubs. Not expensive to make. Not sophisticated technology.
11. Clay masks. I could pop to a beauty supply store, buy a bag of clay and some magnesium, mix it with the water below and it would cost around 20p. If that.
12. Floral water/Spritz. It's water.

Did I forget anything?!

FAQs - Alcohol

After yesterday's post, alcohol was the most-requested topic in the comments...

As you would expect, there are mixed views throughout the industry (and it may well be clear as mud after this post).

Similar to yesterday's 'toxic' conversation, alcohol can also be discussed in terms of dosage.

Alcohol used in cosmetics can be separated into 3 groups:
Simple, Fatty and Aromatic (used in fragrances).

Fatty alcohols are used as emollients. They're thick, wax-like and non-drying. This group includes the most commonly used cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol. This type is used as a thickening agent and helps give products their slip. I think it is unfair to accuse this group of 'cell death'.

Aromatic alcohol - benzyl alcohol, in skincare, is found in the fragrances and outside of that -  head lice treatments (eew). It can be an irritant for some, not for others. It is not used in high %s in products and is usually one of the last ingredients listed on the inci list.

Simple alcohol is where the problem lies, and probably where every other alcohol gets its bad name. Used under names such as isopropyl alcohol and denatured alcohol (alcohol denat or SD alcohol) - this used in its strongest form, can be incredibly drying.
Think of the strongest astringent toners aimed at acnaic skins - they are what you don't want on your skin. This type is also used heavily in hand sanitizers, that's why they can be so drying and why I am always asked for hand creams recommendations from people working in places like hospitals.
However, some of the exfoliating toners that I use do contain alcohol and used sporadically, my skin has no issue with it.

In short, not all alcohols are created the same. Keep an eye out for astringents, and don't be overly concerned with the fatty alcohols you generally see listed in face creams and cleansers.
Just bear in mind, if it's the first thing on the ingredient list it's probably nail polish remover!

FAQs - Exfoliating

How do I know if I'm over-exfoliating?

Proper exfoliation leaves the skin refreshed, invigorated, smooth and soft. The aim is a radiant, glowing skin. Not blistered, red, dehydrated and sore skin.

My personal preference is for mild daily exfoliation via aha/bha's as opposed to physical scrubs. I've found them to be more gentle - but if you prefer a scrub, carry on - just look out for the below...

Signs you could be over-doing it include:

Tightness

Flakiness

Uncomfortable stinging

Increased sensitivity to your normal products

Burning

Dehydration (more than the normal day-to-day)

Persistent redness

Milia (if they are new to you and you never suffered before)

Acne outbreak 

Increased pigmentation

Broken capillaries

If you have any of these conditions, have a break from exfoliating and treat the skin as sensitive and dehydrated until balance is restored. Use facial oils overnight and under your moisturiser during the day. Do NOT use a sonic cleansing brush during this period.

Things to remember:

• Cleansing brushes like the Clarisonic are exfoliators. Do not use these in conjunction with scrubs or 'beady' cleansers. Don't terrorise your skin. Equally, a flannel/washcloth is an exfoliator. If you wash with a flannel, then use your Clarisonic, then a scrub, then an acid toner, then a retinol overnight product, your skin will in all likelihood, be stripped naked.
• Try and stick to a maximum of 3 of the above at any one time. For example, a flannel cleanse, acid toner and retinol overnight treatment is more than enough to be getting on with. Equally. a flannel, mild powdered scrub and a retinol should be sufficient. Exfoliation is important, but so is maintaining a healthy acid mantle.
• You need to treat the face, neck and decollete more delicately than the body.
• What we take away we need to replenish, make sure you moisturise afterwards, whether it's body or face.
• If you have been overdoing it, please stay away from face wipes (more than usual) until the skin has had a chance to repair itself. Dragging and pulling on the face with most types of wipes will only exacerbate the problem.
• If you have the symptoms of over-exfoliation, SPF is your priority. Your skin is compromised and in essence, has lost its security blanket. Protect it.   

FAQs continued...teen years

Firstly, thank you to the teacher that tweeted me to point out hat it was FAQs, not FAQ's. Doofus alert. :)

And thank you lovely readers for your response. Some of the questions left beneath the post were a little off topic and it started to turn into a clinic - so I hope you don't mind but I'm going to cherry pick the ones that I am genuinely asked regularly, not the 'please fix everything in my routine' ones.

Starting with...

Are all the products that your recommend suitable for teenage skins?

No. The main things you need at this age are a decent cleanser, possibly a very mild exfoliating toner if you are suffering from spots/acne and a moisturiser followed by SPF. You could add a mild, gentle exfoliating powder to the mix if you don't particularly need the acid toners.
You do not need retinols in your teens. You do not need expensive 'anti-ageing' serums. We older folks use those to attempt to get something like the skin you've already got. Save your money.
Keep it clean, keep it exfoliated and keep it moisturised and protected.
Don't smoke.
Don't become a sugar addict.

And most of all, embrace everything that is good about yourself, don't obsess about things you don't like about yourself.

And unrelated to skincare: Girls. If he wants to know where you are all the time and who you talk to/hang out with, he's not a boyfriend, he's a pimp. It's not romantic, it's wrong. Kick him to the kerb.

FAQs

As the blog nears the end of it's 5th year - a lot of lovely new readers *waves* are joining the ranks and I am now regularly being asked a lot of questions of a similar vein.

I don't mind at all - having so many readers is a privilege. I did think however, that it could save you time and enable me to answer more questions if I had a page for 'Frequently Asked Questions'. So, as you ask them, I'll answer them and then add them to the page. A lot of you raise the issue of FAQs regularly on my social media pages so feel free to prompt me when you see them.

My most asked question recently is along the lines of:

'Can I use retinols after/alongside P50/acid toners/Liquid Gold?'

In essence, yes, but you may need to neutralise the acids, hence the spritz (stage 2 toner in my routine).

Example: Peter Thomas Roth Unwrinkle Pads recommend using for anything up to 3 minutes then rinsing the face with water. These pads though, are at a 20% strength. The second ingredient is glycolic acid, the fifth is lactic. They're among the stronger ones on the market.

P50, First Aid pads etc etc are nowhere near this strength. 

I would go by your knowledge of the product versus the strength of the vitamin A - i.e. if it's prescription strength, don't go using it with PTR pads and no rinsing in between. 

Pixi Glow Tonic/FAB pads however, would, in theory, be fine, especially if followed by a neutralising floral water/spritz/traditional toner on cotton pad.

I wouldn't use LG under retinols. Liquid Gold is not a toner. Alpha-H recommend using Liquid Gold on its own in the evening, although I always have to add a light hydrating moisturiser afterwards, otherwise I feel dehydrated.

The key thing to remember is that formulations have come such a long way since AHA and BHA's were introduced. A lot of the old scaremongering around retin-a and acids is outdated - Kate Somerville even makes a retinol product delivered in a glycolic base formula (she doesn't recommend using it after ExfoliKate Intensive however, you can have too much of a good thing).

Feel free to start asking/reminding me about my most FAQs in the comments. I can already see the mineral oil question on the horizon. ;)