Five Myths/Facts about Acids

Some of the most frequent questions I am asked concern acids - specifically glycolic. As more and more people embrace acids in all their glory, I thought a few facts from industry expert Lorna Bowes would be interesting. Lorna is an RGN with a specialty in dermatology and advises and trains doctors and aestheticians around the globe. There is nothing about acids and peels this woman does not know.

Myth: Glycolic thins the skin.
Fact: Glycolic Acid thickens the skin.
The first study on hydroxy acids was on the modulation of keratinisation with ichthyosis as the model:
'Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ: Control of Keratinization with a-Hydroxy Acids and Related Compounds. Archives of Dermatology 110: 586-590, 1974'.
This led to understanding that glycolic acid exfoliates and normalises the keratinisation process so that the stratum corneum (outer horny layer of your skin) is more flexible and the excess build up associated with the ageing process is reduced.
However, in 1996 Dr Ditre, a US Dermatologist, published a paper:
'Ditre CM, Griffin TD, Murphy GF, Sueki H, Telegan B, Johnson WC, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ.
Effects of alpha hydroxy acids on photo-aged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic and ultrastructural study.
J Am Acad Dermatol 1996; 34:187-95'.
This paper demonstrated that an AHA treated site increased skin thickness by 25%, the rete pattern (junction between epidermis and dermis which in short works like velcro) is improved, elastic fibres are improved, and there is an increase in GAGs as well as an increase in collagen fibre density.

In summary –

Good thing: Glycolic acid thins the outer stratum corneum which becomes too thick as we age.
Good thing: Glycolic acid restores the essential components of the skin that are damaged as we age, leading to a thicker skin that functions more youthfully.

For smoother texture, softer younger looking skin, more evenness of skin tone and clarity, and a fuller, firmer skin with more elasticity and less laxity, use glycolic acid.


Myth: You must use SPF30 or above if using acids as AHAs increase sensitivity to UV light.
Fact: Increases in sunburn cell formation have been documented following AHA use.
However, this effect can be prevented by use of the very lowest level of sunscreen, even as low as an SPF2.
(This fact is merely to reassure you that if you use acids, you're not burning your face off when you go outside, not to encourage you to cease SPF usage, which you will still need for the usual reasons! CRH)

Myth: AHAs diminish skin barrier function
Fact: US FDA studies have not shown an increase in the absorption of studied materials which means that skin barrier function is not decreased. Further studies have demonstrated AHA-related improvements in skin barrier function.

Myth: AHAs cause skin irritation
Fact: AHAs are known to occasionally produce transient stinging, especially at higher strengths.
Stinging should be fleeting and should not produce excessive erythema (redness). Mild irritation can be (but is not always) part of the process.


Any Qs let us know in the comments. And thank you Lorna!


www.neostrata.co.uk




More info on Lorna Bowes: www.aestheticsource.com/lorna-bowes

See my full disclaimer here: http://bit.ly/1rpEmSq
The views expressed on this site are the author's own and are provided for informational purposes only. The author makes no warranties about the suitability of any product or treatment referenced or reviewed here for any person other than herself and any reliance placed on these reviews or references by you is done so solely at your own risk. Nothing on this site shall be construed as providing dermatological, medical or other such advice and you are always advised to seek the advice of a suitable professional should you have any such concerns.

Drunk Elephant TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

Describe the brand in three words.
Clean. Trendy. American.

Who is it for?
Anyone and everyone. But you will need to modify how you use it accordingly if you are on the dry skin spectrum.

What’s in it?
Water, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (Yeast) Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica (Cactus) Extract, Sclerocarya Birrea (Marula) Seed Oil, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Galactoarabinan, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Hexylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide (pH adjustor), Phenoxyethanol

What's not in it?
Animal Fats/Oils/Musks, Benzalkonium Chloride, Benzophenone, Bisphenol A (BPA), Butoxyethanol, BHA, BHT, Chemical Sunscreens, Coal Tar Dyes, -Cones, Detergent, Essential Oils, Ethanolamines (MEA/DEA/TEA), Formaldehyde, Fragrance, Hydroquinone, Liquid Petrolatum, Methyl Cellosolve, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Mercury, Mercury Compounds, Mineral Oil, Oxybenzone, Parabens, Paraffin Oil, Phthalates, Polyethylene Glycol (PEGs), Resorcinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol, Siloxanes, Sulfates, Thimerosal, Toluene, Triclosan, Triclocarban
That's quite a list!

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?
The brand says that they have made it for every skin and that you shouldn't have a problem, but anyone can be allergic to anything.

Suitable for pregnancy?
It doesn't say, but I would say yes, despite the salicylic content.

Natural? Organic? Synthetic? Vegan?
Natural and Synthetic

Tested on animals in home country/EU/sold in territories that require testing?
No/No/No

How does it smell?
Fragrance-free

How do you use it?
Apply to a clean, dry face in the evenings. Shake before use*, use one pump and apply.

Can it be taken around the eyes?
No

Best for winter or summer?
Either, just don't forget your SPF in either case.

How long did I test it for?
On and off since June

How much is it? /Size/Approximate cost per usage?
$90.00 for 30ml

Works well with?
They recommend the Marula Oil to follow.

What's the packaging like?
My favourite thing about the brand, the packaging is brilliant. Airtight, opaque, the lid locks for travel, the colours are lovely. I have the newer packaging with the click and close lid, not the removable cap and pump.

What’s the website like?
Good. All ingredients are listed, it warmed me to the brand, but I could do without the liberal use of the word 'toxic'. (See all previous ranting posts)

How’s the distribution? Available freely or limited?
In Sephora and online in the States, not here yet.

What’s good about it?
The ethos, the packaging, the line-up of skus, that's all good. This absolutely should work like a charm. It has a high level of mixed acids at 12% and a PH of 3.8-4.0, low enough to work, not too low that you're in danger of doing damage. Drunk Elephant is a brand causing a lot of industry stir at the moment: wwd.com/drunk-elephant-estee-lauder-acquisition with talk of selling to a larger corporation. It's just talk at the moment, but is perhaps inevitable.
It's a good formula, with a lot of thought put into it. It's also one of my most requested product reviews ever, which makes me slightly nervous to say....

What’s not so good about it?
Maybe it's because I've been doing acids for years but this didn't really do much for me. I'm sure, having read a ton of reviews, that it absolutely works very well for a lot of people, but for me it was a tad drying, and I didn't see a big difference. I give total kudos to DE for listing their PH, so often avoided by brands, like Coca-Cola's 'X' ingredient. It has all the right ingredients for all the right reasons. I just didn't see a big difference. I think you would however, see a difference if you are fairly new to acids or have previously only used milder products like Glow Tonic or First Aid Beauty Pads.
If you are on the dry side, I would stick to liquid exfoliants or add a good hydrating moisturiser after using this.
I like this brand, I think I would like their other products. I just happen to need stronger acids than this is all.

Would I purchase/repurchase?
I wouldn't, but lots of you would, which says a lot.

Do you need it?
Yes, if you don't particularly like liquid acids, or want a mixture of acids in one easy pump. No if you already use a ton of individual acids or are very dry.

Similar products?
Bravura Glycolic
Paula's Choice
Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid



Drunk Elephant TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum is $90.00 and available from Sephora.com or DrunkElephant.com



*This post contains some affiliate links. If you are happy to click on them and support the blog, thank you very much. If you would rather not, just google the product. It's all good. See my full disclaimer here: http://bit.ly/1rpEmSq The views expressed on this site are the author's own and are provided for informational purposes only. The author makes no warranties about the suitability of any product or treatment referenced or reviewed here for any person other than herself and any reliance placed on these reviews or references by you is done so solely at your own risk. Nothing on this site shall be construed as providing dermatological, medical or other such advice and you are always advised to seek the advice of a suitable professional should you have any such concerns.

Acid Toning Part One

Oh it was always going to be a long one wasn't it?

If you are a new reader (WELCOME!) you can read more about the importance of acids on the cheat sheets over there----->

The rest of you will be au fait with my thinking so let's crack on with the products in Part 1.

P50/V/W/1970 Biologique Recherche - Lactic, usnic, salicylic and ascorbic acids. Niacinamide - brill. The first and still far and away one of the best. Around £50.00

Bravura Purifying Calendula Toner - 10% glycolic, 3% lactic. Lots of info on the website - the PH is 3.8. Marvellous! And it WAS £8.00 and 39p. A great budget buy.

Cane & Austin Retexturizing Treatment Pads - 10% glycolic, retinyl palmitate and ubiquinone - great ingredients designed for anti-ageing and pigmentation. (Also available from Beauty Bay - not just SpaceNK as I say in the video)

Colbert MD Intensify Facial Pads - Bromelain (pineapple enzymes), lactic acid and glucosamine. Exfoliating discs designed to mimic the effects of microdermabrasion. Glycolic-free. Beautiful product.

Colbert MD Tone Control - These are aimed at damage caused by pigmentation and contain inflacin (massive anti-inflammatory), Phytomoist Qusome (400 times more active than sodium hyaluronate), CoQ10 and ubiquinone. perfect for an older skin plagued by/worried about pigmentation.

Dennis Gross M.D. Alpha Beta Peel Original Formula - Disc One contains glycolic, lactic, malic and salicylic acids, genistein. Disc Two contains green tea extract, phospholipids and sodium bicarbonate. Gentle enough for every day use without losing efficacy. 

Dennis Gross M.D. Extra Strength Alpha Beta Peel - Disc One contains glycolic, malic, lactic, citric, mandelic and salicylic acids. Disc Two follows up with retinol, genistein, ubiquinone and resveratrol. Hardcore. Brilliant for anti-ageing.

Dennis Gross M.D. Alpha Beta Glow Pads - contain vitamin D, glycolic and lactic acid along with DHA to both be anti-ageing and impart a glow.
N'est pas que le génie ?

Environ AVST Toner - niacinamide and lactic acid make this another glycolic-free option. The Environ website is awful so this links to the UK distributor which carries more info.

First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads - Affordable, gentle enough for daily use. Lactic and glycolic in an aloe vera base. One of my most-used products this year.

Thanks for watching. Part Two is coming.

Glycolic Facial Cleanser - Anthony Logistics for Men (AND WOMEN)

I'm a great believer that there are very few products made for men that women can't use also (Tena pads aside, the truth can also be found in the reverse).

The added bonus is that men's products are nearly always, always cheaper.

Case in point: Anthony for Men - a great range - reasonably priced, paraben and mineral oil free (jig) and single-handedly the most popular brand with all of the men in my house (headcount: husband, 21 and 19 year old sons - for reference!).

I've used the Glycolic Cleanser on and off for a few years and at last night's Space NK event I recommended it to a number of people which reminded me to blog about it!

It contains 4% glycolic acid but counteracts it with an aloe vera hit so is very soothing. It does contain everyone's favourite panic buzzword of methylisothiazolione - but its in a very small % (judging from the inci). I personally haven't experienced any adverse effects from MI (to my knowledge) - and am fine using this. Just a little FYI.

Full ingredients are:
Aqua (Water), Cocoamidopropyl Oxide, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate 9 (Rice Derived), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Citrus Noblis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Acetate, Methylisothiazolione, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract

If you had a particularly bad ezcema/psoriasis prone skin I'd maybe sample this first - but for everyone else - especially acne prone skins - this is great - either as a quick morning cleanse or a second cleanse in the evening after MU removal. And boys. I suppose we should let the boys use it too.

Glycolic Facial Cleanser is priced £21.00 for 237ml - a ridiculous bargain - and is available from www.SpaceNK.com, www.Mankind.com and of course www.Anthony.com

Clarins Exfoliating Toner

Here in all its glory is the most searched for item on this blog. There were over 100 searches for it in December alone so I thought I'd best get to reviewing it.

This is automatically in my Top 10 Toners.

A few things to say up front: it does contain alcohol - which I am always asked about - but it counteracts it nicely with glycerin. If I hadn't seen the inci list I wouldn't have known there was alcohol present. There is absolutely NO feeling of dryness after use.

It also contains glycolic, salicylic and tartaric acid - in much smaller amounts than P50 and Pixi Glow Tonic - there is only the teeniest sting on open skin (after extractions) so this in essence is a lovely toner that will really gently exfoliate the surface of the skin without really over-working it and thus the danger of thinning it out..however, it isn't the gentlest with the hindsight of longevity. I would absolutely keep this as one of your go-to exfoliating toners, but it's not suitable for 2 x day every day. Mix it up. Alternate with other exfoliating toners.

You'll find that the bigger beauty houses steer away from using products that are too active - and always, always, protect themselves with very safe usage directions. It's not their fault - they answer to lawyers and shareholders and have to avoid any costly lawsuits.

So this says to use 1 or 2 times a week and to avoid the eyes. I purposely used it across my eyelids and undereyes (as I always do with toner) and this is absolutely fine. On me. I'm not suggesting you pour it all over your face - just giving you reassurance that for my eyes - which are actually quite sensitive - this was fine.

It also has the must-have legal requirement labelling about sunburn and AHA usage - saying to avoid the sun for a week after use. This is bog standard EU inci legislation that has to be applied to anything containing AHA's. 

Ridiculous when you consider that glycolic acid is the only one of the AHA's that actually makes you sun sensitive. Do read the packaging but don't be put off.

So yes, protect your skin and patch test on a Clarins counter if you are concerned, but this is a beautiful, softening, exfoliating, brightening, hydrating toner that should be in everyone's arsenal. 

Available from Clarins.co.uk priced £24.50.

* press sample

Clinic Lessons this week. The Recap.

I sometimes wonder after I've posted a Clinic if readers who just glance occasionally or have no use for the Clinic wonder why I disappear for a while. 

I'm still here - I'm just down there on the post below answering questions - have a look for yourself. On that note - every Clinic there are things that either arise as a concern or issues that are repeated by a few readers. Welcome to the Clinic recap. And a mini rant at the end.

• Liquid Gold is not a toner peeps. It's about as high a strength glycolic as you can get without a prescription. Once/ twice a week is fine. Calm down. Before your face falls off.
• You need to make sure you are getting enough hydration as well as oil in your products as the weather changes. Light Summer lotions need to be shelved to make way for slightly more hydrating and nourishing products.
• Please stop using foaming anything cleanser-wise. You want surfactants on your dishes, not your face.
• Bioderma is not a cleanser to be used every single day forever - ultimately its a makeup remover. It's certainly not up there as a product I would recommend for your AM cleanse. I know the hype is out there. But even though it says it is soap free, neutral PH etc - if you don't get some nourishment onto your skin it will show in the end. Even at the cleanser stage. Same goes for all micellar waters - but this one is having it's moment.
• Clarisonic - don't go mad. Don't. That is all.
• If a product is 'famous' or on every 'Beauty Must-Have' list in a magazine it doesn't mean it will be right for you. And if it's not right for you it doesn't mean there is anything wrong with you. It just doesn't work for you. This is as true for Cleanse & Polish as it is for Advanced Night Repair. Neither of which do jack for me, or a lot of people on here. You are not alone!

There may be more as I'm still working my way through the Clinic - but this will get us going..

And finally, Victoria Beckham posted this tweet last week:

'Travel tip,after regimen put a layer of baby oil over face.Protects skin on plane, locks in moisture.'

I'm not even sure where to begin with this one so I'll just leave it at this: 

What a load of utter bollocks. Don't use it on your face. Don't use it full stop. And don't ever, ever, use it on your poor baby.

Cheat Sheet - Milia

Stubborn, unsightly and annoyingly hard to get rid of, milia are found in all ages.
Babies (over 50% of them), kids and adults can all be affected. All races. Both sexes.
They don't discriminate. They generally affect the thin skin around the eyes and upper parts of the cheeks in adults.
They are basically a mini cyst. A cyst full of keratin. We like keratin - we need it. Its what gives our skin, hair and nails structure. You just don't want it trapped under your skin and trying to get out.

The important things to remember are:

• they're NOT spots 
• they have nothing to do with your pores - they are under your epidermis
• they're not harmful
• they're not infectious
• they're not caused by germs/bacteria
• you can't get rid of them by taking an antibiotic/the pill

If you have a lot of them - and if your family also suffer with them - you're probably genetically predisposed to them. If you just get the odd one here and there you probably just need to up the ante on your skincare routine.  

How do you get rid of them?

First of all - don't bother trying to pick at it. You're setting yourself up for a whole heap of trouble. Essentially what you are trying to do is pick a hole in your skin.

• Get a professional to do it. Phone your nearest salon. Ask them specifically if they remove milia. Double check. Say 'do you physically remove milia?' We're talking manually - no microdermabrasion, no laser - just your therapist, her steady hand and a suitable needle. If they hesitate don't go. You don't want someone who's not confident/trained poking around your eye with a needle? Not a lot of salons offer the service - in some councils you're not allowed to 'pierce the skin' in a salon - old legislation relating to sex clubs in city centres - not facials.
• Go see a dermatologist - let them deal with them.
• Have a go yourself. Not recommended - but I know some of you are as stubborn and pig-headed as me and I also recognise you may not be able to afford a facial/don't have a decent therapist near you so I thought it best to address the issue. I can do some of mine near the eye area but I get a pro for the ones on the cheeks - the area is too fat/chubby for me to get a comfortable grip. I've decided against a 'how-to physically remove by yourself' post - I'm not being responsible for someone going at their face with a needle! I will however, answer questions in the comments to help if you are absolutely determined to attack your face.

How can I help shift them?

Well to start with you need to get into a routine every day to make your skin work for itself.

• Keep your skin cleansed - using flannels/hot water etc
• Exfoliate every day - gently - don't go tearing at your skin OR the area - and DO NOT - repeat after me - DO NOT use any of those apricot scrubs you can get for a quid in the chemist. EVER. End. Of. Ideally you need a topical glycolic toner/lotion.
• Alternate between a toner for acne skin and a hydrating toner. These you can comfortably buy cheaper in the chemist. Toners/lotions are to my mind, essential for controlling milia. The acne one needs an acid in it - the hydrating one needs a glycerin base. The acne toner - used on the area affected by the milia only - will help the surface layers of the skin shift quicker  - the hydrating one will make sure you don't dry your face out at the same time. It takes 2 seconds - don't complain about time taken to take care of your face. It's your face. Acne first/hydrating second.
• Moisturise them with a NON mineral oil moisturiser (see below)
• Use a clay mask on the alternate days you don't exfoliate. Just do your nightly cleanse, whack it on the area and go have dinner/watch telly/whatever - remove, tone, moisturise.

You should find that some of the smaller ones shift themselves anyway doing this.

Some general guidelines...

Don't:

• Use products containing mineral oil or lanolin (ever, regardless) 
• Pick at them with needles - if you don't know what you're doing you'll scar your face

Do:

• Use a topical glycolic on the area
• Exfoliate regularly
• Moisturise them normally
• Use good clay masks on the area regularly
• Get them removed safely by a pro 

Cheat Sheet - Anti-ageing

Anti-ageing.

We're all so used to this phrase that we don't even question it. If a product says it is anti-ageing on the box then it must be - right?

WRONG.

If ever a phrase has been overused it is this one. There are few ingredients that are indeed anti-ageing.
Although to be fair some should be called 'ageing prevention' as they don't reverse signs of ageing - they just slow them down or prevent them from getting worse.

Before we get on to the ingredients a reminder from your friendly nag about the 3 worst things you can do for your skin.

Sun, Sugar and Smoking

Sun - get a little - not a lot. Be sensible.

Sugar - probably one of the best (and hardest) things you can do for yourself, your health and your skin is to cut out sugar.
In a nutshell - sugar destroys your collagen - think of collagen as scaffolding for your face. Every time you eat/drink sugar it is like taking a piece of the scaffolding away - saggy baggy and drawn. Enjoy that cola won't you. And I'm not preaching here - I struggle every day with leaving sugar alone!

Smoking - No need to go into detail. I could not possibly be more anti-smoking. I was once able to tell a client how she blew her smoke out of her mouth (straight up her face from her bottom lip) because of the condition of her skin in that area.
Smoking leaches the oxygen out of your face with every puff. Smokers have grey skin. Yes. Grey. If you smoke - get help and stop - as soon as you can.

So - digression over. The next time you pick up a product that claims to be anti-ageing what you need to look out for is one of these:

• SPF      
  SPF is anti-ageing. Proven, undoubtedly, unequivocally. Although if you're younger you could argue that it belongs in the 'prevention' category. It doesn't fix what has been done. That is the job of:
• Vitamin A   
  Vitamin A is the only other ingredient along with SPF that the FDA will legally let you claim to be anti-ageing in the USA. Vitamin A reverses the signs of ageing. Rebuilds collagen, repairs sun damage and is an all round good egg. There are varying degrees of vitamin A - if you have previously used a product with vitamin A in it and reacted badly - it may just be that you haven't found the right one for you yet.
• Glycolic/Lactic/Salicylic Acids   
  Acids used in the right way can be beneficial to the skin - when applied as topical exfoliants they resurface the epidermis allowing better product penetration and in the case of some well formulated AHA's - help rebuild collagen.
  Glycolic and Lactic are better for a dryer skin - Salicylic for oily/combination. Don't go too strong straight away and don't go mad. Less is sometimes more. 
• Vitamins C and E
  These two work well together as vitamin C is traditionally water-based (newer formulas include oil-based vitamin C) and vitamin E is oil based thus protecting both parts of the cell. Both are anti-oxidants and so in the 'prevention' category.
• Niacinamide
  Newer than the others, this is vitamin B3 by another name. When used on the skin it has shown to stimulate the dermis and in turn increase the fatty content of the cells along with aiding in the retention of water. As it is shown to enhance barrier function of the epidermis it has had good results with acne sufferers by protectng against bacterial attack.

Honestly?

That's about it.

Other ingredients may be and are beneficial to the skin in other ways - but if anti-ageing is the aim - you need some of these in your product - not all at once - let's not give the epidermis a heart attack.

And what age to start using anti-ageing?

I'm 'nutshelling' again but here goes:

SPF - from birth - no brainer. But please don't cover your babies in SPF50 until they are white. They need SOME sun.

Vitamin A - 30+ depending on lifestyle - if you're a sun worshipper start earlier.

Glycolic/Lactic/Salicylic - again depends on lifestyle and skin type. If you have acne you can use Salicylic topically from a fairly early age. The other two can be introduced 25+.

Vitamins C and E - from the word go. As soon as you start your skincare routine choose something with these in. Good move.

Niacinamide - 25+ ish again depending on lifestyle and skin. Acne? Crack on.

The basic thing to remember with anti-ageing is that our collagen production is linked directly to our ovaries.
When we are at our most fertile our skin is is usually at its height. As you near menopause and go through peri-menopause you will notice huge changes in your entire system, not just your skin. Hitting menopause has a direct link to your collagen, its a bit like someone takes away a little of the scaffolding that supports your facial structure with each passing year.

So start taking care of your skin when you get your periods - and step it up a notch when you get to 35+ (before if you go into early menopause or have a full hysterectomy).

And when you DO start using these products - all of them but especially the Vitamin A - DO NOT FORGET YOUR SPF.
During winter I get my SPF from my foundation, but I live in the northern hemisphere and work predominantly indoors. Once the sun is out its time for a dedicated SPF on top of your moisturiser and underneath your foundation. More of which here: www.carolinehirons.com/spf-cheat-sheet

And if you DO smoke? Scrap all that advice and use all of the above - now.