Cheat Sheet - Milia

Stubborn, unsightly and annoyingly hard to get rid of, milia are found in all ages.
Babies (over 50% of them), kids and adults can all be affected. All races. Both sexes.
They don't discriminate. They generally affect the thin skin around the eyes and upper parts of the cheeks in adults.
They are basically a mini cyst. A cyst full of keratin. We like keratin - we need it. Its what gives our skin, hair and nails structure. You just don't want it trapped under your skin and trying to get out.

The important things to remember are:

• they're NOT spots 
• they have nothing to do with your pores - they are under your epidermis
• they're not harmful
• they're not infectious
• they're not caused by germs/bacteria
• you can't get rid of them by taking an antibiotic/the pill

If you have a lot of them - and if your family also suffer with them - you're probably genetically predisposed to them. If you just get the odd one here and there you probably just need to up the ante on your skincare routine.  

How do you get rid of them?

First of all - don't bother trying to pick at it. You're setting yourself up for a whole heap of trouble. Essentially what you are trying to do is pick a hole in your skin.

• Get a professional to do it. Phone your nearest salon. Ask them specifically if they remove milia. Double check. Say 'do you physically remove milia?' We're talking manually - no microdermabrasion, no laser - just your therapist, her steady hand and a suitable needle. If they hesitate don't go. You don't want someone who's not confident/trained poking around your eye with a needle? Not a lot of salons offer the service - in some councils you're not allowed to 'pierce the skin' in a salon - old legislation relating to sex clubs in city centres - not facials.
• Go see a dermatologist - let them deal with them.
• Have a go yourself. Not recommended - but I know some of you are as stubborn and pig-headed as me and I also recognise you may not be able to afford a facial/don't have a decent therapist near you so I thought it best to address the issue. I can do some of mine near the eye area but I get a pro for the ones on the cheeks - the area is too fat/chubby for me to get a comfortable grip. I've decided against a 'how-to physically remove by yourself' post - I'm not being responsible for someone going at their face with a needle! I will however, answer questions in the comments to help if you are absolutely determined to attack your face.

How can I help shift them?

Well to start with you need to get into a routine every day to make your skin work for itself.

• Keep your skin cleansed - using flannels/hot water etc
• Exfoliate every day - gently - don't go tearing at your skin OR the area - and DO NOT - repeat after me - DO NOT use any of those apricot scrubs you can get for a quid in the chemist. EVER. End. Of. Ideally you need a topical glycolic toner/lotion.
• Alternate between a toner for acne skin and a hydrating toner. These you can comfortably buy cheaper in the chemist. Toners/lotions are to my mind, essential for controlling milia. The acne one needs an acid in it - the hydrating one needs a glycerin base. The acne toner - used on the area affected by the milia only - will help the surface layers of the skin shift quicker  - the hydrating one will make sure you don't dry your face out at the same time. It takes 2 seconds - don't complain about time taken to take care of your face. It's your face. Acne first/hydrating second.
• Moisturise them with a NON mineral oil moisturiser (see below)
• Use a clay mask on the alternate days you don't exfoliate. Just do your nightly cleanse, whack it on the area and go have dinner/watch telly/whatever - remove, tone, moisturise.

You should find that some of the smaller ones shift themselves anyway doing this.

Some general guidelines...

Don't:

• Use products containing mineral oil or lanolin (ever, regardless) 
• Pick at them with needles - if you don't know what you're doing you'll scar your face

Do:

• Use a topical glycolic on the area
• Exfoliate regularly
• Moisturise them normally
• Use good clay masks on the area regularly
• Get them removed safely by a pro 

Cheat Sheet - Spots

Zits. Pustules. Papules. Wheals. Comedones. Milia. There are lots of things that happen to the skin - especially on the face - on a regular basis.  This is purely for:

SPOTS.

Acne? I'm not talking to you. Blackheads? Nor you. Pustules? Nope.  I'm talking about your average spot that pops up occasionally - you know it's coming - you can feel it, it started with a bump, felt sore, then got a little red, hurt a little more, then you see a faint hint of something that could be a head. A little white/cream shows underneath.

And THEN if you are the average female, you:

• Stab it (leading to ...scar)
• Poke it (absolutely nothing)
• Squeeze it (if too early, will bruise, then scar)
• Load it with tea tree oil (no need - it's probably not bacterial)
• Load it with spot treatment (see above)
• or GOD FORBID - put toothpaste on it (please no)

Toothpaste. Paste for TEETH. On a spot. Genius.

I have reached the point of no return.

So here is my gift to you. You can also use this for milia (the little hard, white bumps usually found around the lower eye, upper cheek area).

Next time you feel one of these mothers coming up (or get a milia) you will need the following:

• Your hands
• Your moisturiser
• Your concealer
• Patience

Repeat after me: moisturise, massage, moisturise. Repeat. Moisturise, Massage, MOISTURISE.

Moisturise the area like its going out of fashion. Yes really. This is particularly good for those big on-the-chin once-a-month spots.
Moisturising it does a few things:

• Softens the area around the spot - how often have you destroyed the surrounding area of a zit because you treated the area of the said zit so abusively??

And then either:

• makes the spot retreat entirely
  OR
• brings it to a head quicker - in which case you have my permission to pop. 

Pop pop away. Have at it.

Words of warning:

• A 'popable' spot shouldn't really hurt when popping - it should be satisfying
• If it hurts - stop - it's too soon and you will bruise and then possibly scar
• Stop at the first sign of blood - you're about to scar
• Never, ever, ever try and pop a milia - this technique will eventually make them go, or disperse on the surface. If they don't, get them removed - professionally. Milia can only be taken out safely by piercing the skin - and a lot of therapists are not trained in milia removal. Ask before you let them attack. And don't bother trying yourself - all you'll get for your trouble is a bleeding hole, a bruise - and the milia waving at you from underneath when the dust has settled. And take note - if you do suffer from milia you need to up the hydration level of your creams - less oil, more water based ones.

So the next time you feel Mount Vesuvius brewing under the skin - give it a chance, treat it with care, and save the Crest for your mouth. Please.